【作者】 刘永凯；

【导师】 陈超；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2011， 硕士

【摘要】 服装外观形态保持性对消费者在实际中长期穿着的服装有着重要的意义,外观形态保持性的强弱决定了服装在特定时间范围内的穿着外观形态效果,也决定着服装可以有效使用的时间。作为现代上班族工作过程中必不可少的职场衬衣,其外观形态保持性针对不同工作人群的长期工作姿态有着不同的要求。服装面料是服装造型的基础,是服装外观形态形成与保持的关键。因此,研究服装面料力学性能与服装外观形态保持性的关系,对于不同工作人群购买服装或者设计师针对不同工作者选择服装面料都有着重要的意义。首先,本文系统介绍了服装外观形态保持性的内涵,依据不同的标准对其进行了分类,通过调查问卷的方式获得了不同工作人群穿着的职场衬衣的外观形态保持性的评价分指标及其权重。然后,在实验部分,对收集到的面料进行初选得到64种面料,再对这些面料进行KES织物风格测试和主观等级评价,综合这两方面选出30种用于制作样衣的面料。将30种面料制作出60件样衣(每种面料制作两件同规格样衣)。对30件样衣进行使用实验,将实验后的30件样衣与另外30件样衣进行服装外观形态评价实验。第三,在实验数据分析部分,依据外观形态评价得到不同面料对应服装的外观形态保持性,将服装的外观形态保持性与面料的力学性能进行灰色关联分析,找到对服装外观形态保持性影响显著的面料性能指标。最后,以上面的分析为依据,将灰局势决策应用于服装外观形态保持性评价,进而从面料备选集中选出最佳面料,达到对面料客观优化选择的目的。本文的研究可以用于服装设计师针对不同工作人群服装使用特点进行面料的客观选择,具有较强的实际意义。更多还原

【Abstract】 The appearance retention of clothing is important to those clothes which are worn often by consumers,it may determine the performance that the clothing will show when it is worn,it may also determine how long the clothing can be used.As essential to the modern office worker in the workplace, the appearance retention of shirts has different requirements for different forms of working people to maintain long-term work attitude.The fabric is the foundation of the formation of clothing and is the key to the appearance retention of clothing. Therefore,it is important for different groups of people purchasing clothes or designer choosing to study the relationship between mechanical properties of fabric and the appearance retention of clothing.Firstly, the paper describes the connotation of the appearance retention, according to different standard classify them,and by way of questionnaires to obtain sub-indicators and its weight of the appearance retention which the people in different workplace give.Secondly,in the experiment,KES tester are employed to gain fabric basic mechanical property indexes of 64 kinds of fabrics selected from some fabrics collected,and these fabrics are graded through subjective assessment,integrate both to select 30 kinds of fabrics for making clothes. These 30 kinds of fabrics are used for making 60 shirts(every kinds of fabrics are made for the same two shirts).After wearing of 30 shirts for some time,these 30 shirts and another 30 shirts are used for evaluation of the appearance retention.Thirdly, in the section of experimental data analysis, based on subjective evaluation appearance retention of clothing corresponding to different fabrics are obtained.Grey relational analysis is used to study the relation of clothing appearance retention and fabrics’ mechanical properties ,then to find some significant mechanical property indexes to appearance retention of clothing.Finally, based on the above analysis,use Grey situation decision in the evaluation of clothing appearance retention,and then optimize the choice of fabric objective purpose through this way.This study can be used to objectively select fabric for different groups of people by fashion designer,this has a strong practical significance.更多还原