【作者】 皮文婷；

【导师】 刘向东； 马慧中；

【作者基本信息】 湖北美术学院 ， 空间形态设计及其理论研究， 2011， 硕士

【摘要】 在历史的变更,人类文明发展的漫漫长卷中,首饰艺术的内涵及外延伴随着社会的进步一直在不断演变。由于生产力的发展和人们审美意识的不断提升,现代首饰与传统首饰已决然不同。现代首饰在现代美学的基础上,继承传统首饰工艺,结合现代文化和艺术思潮的影响下发展起来的,有别于远古时代纯粹的装饰物,也不再仅仅是达官贵人用以炫耀身份地位的附属物,它的社会功能及审美价值发生了显著的变化。科技飞速发展,物质生活日益丰富的今天,首饰的社会价值上升到更高层次,即宣扬个性,塑造尽可能完美的个人形象。人们通过服装的选择,首饰的搭配等来体现自我审美水平。尤其在竞争如此激烈的现代社会,通过自我形象包装的独特性显示与众不同的审美情趣以得到别人的羡慕和欣赏,不失为增强自信,缓解压力的一种良好途径。因此,在现代首饰设计中,如何通过款式的造型及材料的运用,满足人们对首饰的个性化、多样化、定制化需求?值得去思考和研究。本文从款式与材料的变化关系角度出发,通过对传统首饰中款式和材料演变的阐述,及对现代首饰设计中的款式与材料变化关系的探寻,比较中西方首饰文化,分析时代背景和现代首饰设计的现状,在设计创新的前提下,论证款式与材料变化关系的重要性。综合对国际知名首饰品牌的实例分析,研究多种风格造型及丰富材料在现代首饰设计中的应用;引用大量国内外的新锐设计案例,分析和提炼现代首饰设计的创新途径和创意方法。通过对民族文化的借鉴,对传统精神的继承,对外来文化的吸收,从而为寻找中国现代首饰的未来发展之路做一些实践性的探讨。更多还原

【Abstract】 In the historical change, the human culture development inundates in the long volume, the jewelry art’s connotation and the extension follow society’s progress to evolve unceasingly. Because the productive forces development and the people realize esthetically unceasing promotion, modern jewelry and traditional jewelry already decidedly different. The modern jewelry in the modern esthetics’s foundation, the hand down a tradition jewelry craft, the union modern culture and under the artistic ideological trend’s influence develops, was different with the high antiquity pure widget, also no longer merely was the highly placed people uses to show off the status status the accessory, its social function and the esthetic value has had the remarkable change.The technical swift development, material life rich today, jewelry’s social value rises day by day to the top level, namely publicizes the individuality, the mold as far as possible perfect individual image. The people through clothing’s choice, jewelry’s matching and so on manifest the self-esthetic level. Especially in the competition so intense modern society, through the self-vivid packing’s distinctive quality demonstrated that the out of the ordinary esthetic appeal by obtains others’ envying and appreciates, is the enhancement is self-confident, alleviation pressure one good way. Therefore, in the modern jewelry design, how through the design modelling and the material utilization, satisfies the people to jewelry’s personalization, the diversification, to have custom-made the demand? Is worth pondering and the research.This article from the design and material change relations angle embarking, through the elaboration which the design and the material evolves to the traditional jewelry, and to modern jewelry design design and material change relations inquiring about, in comparison Western jewelry culture, analysis time background and modern jewelry design present situation, under design innovation premise, proof design and material change relations importance. Synthesis to world famous jewelry brand example analysis, research many kinds of style modelling and rich material in modern jewelry design application; Quotes the massive domestic and foreign new sharp design case, the analysis and the refinement modern jewelry design innovation way and the creativity method. Through to national culture model, to traditional spirit inheritance, to external cultural absorption, thus to seek for the Chinese modern jewelry’s road of future development to make some practical discussion.更多还原