【作者】 袁为；

【导师】 吴清萍；

【作者基本信息】 武汉纺织大学 ， 设计艺术学， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 在近两年国际女装设计中,大量的褶饰被设计师运用在连衣裙,尤其是合体型连衣裙当中。这些褶饰将面料进行有序的叠加或堆积,使得裙身带有强烈的体积感、雕塑感和立体感,给人以全新的感觉,由此也衍生出了新的褶饰形态,新的褶饰面貌,比如具有建筑风格和折叠风格的褶饰。本文研究的是目前的合体型连衣裙中的“新褶饰”,其特点是:褶量大,具有体积感、雕塑感和强烈的视觉冲击力。褶饰应用在裙身上的部位也更加的广泛,其造型功能被进一步强化。论文主要分为三大部分:第一部分:论述合体型连衣裙中褶饰的形态特征及其影响因素。依据流行趋势中不同的褶饰的构成特点以及造型方式,大致将其分为八类,并简要介绍每一种褶饰的特点。而后,对影响褶饰形态的因素简要分析。这一部分对整篇论文起基础作用。第二部分:对于合体型连衣裙中褶饰的板型设计的研究。在这一部分的内容中,主要从对于案例的分析来论述褶饰如何在合体型连衣裙的不同部位应用,进而总结合体型连衣裙中褶饰的板型设计的要领与技巧。第三部分:通过阐述褶饰合体型连衣裙板型设计的原理与方法,得出结论:合体型连衣裙中的“新褶饰”有其特有的造型特征;放松量对于褶饰的板型设计有影响;褶饰合体型连衣裙板型设计需要遵循其特殊原理。更多还原

【Abstract】 Recently , in the international women’s design, plenty of ruching was used in the dress bydesigner,especially in syncytical dress. It made dress with a strong sense of volume, sculpturalsense and three-dimensional sense that he ruching in the situation of superposition andaccumulation orderly.It gave us new feel.Thus new ruching form and look were derived fromit, instance, obvious architectural style and folding style ruching.This paper is studied about the“new ruching”in syncytical dress recently. Its characteristics isbig volume of ruching.However, it have a strong sense of volume , sculptural sense and strongvisual impact.Moreover,the application which ruching in the dress is moreextensive,however,its shape function is further strengthened. This paper is divided into threesection.The first section: discussion about the morphological feature and its effect factors insyncytical dress. Based on fashion trends, composition characteristics and Modeling approachin different ruching, Roughly divided into eight categories. And briefly describes thecharacteristics of each Ruching. Then,we concise analysis the factors which give influence toruching This part of play a fundamental role in the whole thesis.The second section: study of pattern design of ruching in syncytical dress. In this part of thecontent, mainly from the analysis for the case of, thus,discussed ruching how toco-application of the different parts of syncytical dress. And then we sum up tips andechniques of the ruching in syncytical dress.The Third section: By elaborate Principles and Methods of pattern design in ruchingsyncytical dress, arrive at a conclusion:“new ruching”in syncytical dress has its uniquemodeling features；ease have impact to the pattern design of ruching; it is necessity that thepattern design of ruching syncytical dress to follow the special theory.更多还原