【作者】 王楠楠；

【导师】 张竞琼；

【作者基本信息】 江南大学 ， 设计艺术学， 2011， 硕士

【摘要】 符号学是研究符号的科学,它的研究对象包括符号的本质及其变化发展的规律和符号所代表的各种意义,不同符号之间和人类行为之间的关系。以符号学的观点来看,一切有意义的物质形式都可以称之为符号。服饰作为一种能够反映社会文化发展状况的物质形式,它的式样变化、材质运用以及色彩搭配、纹样选择等方面能够记录特定历史时期的生产力状况和科技水平,同时也能够反映人们的审美观念和生活情趣。汉族民间服饰是一个独立的服饰体系,它在历史的传承和发展中形成了自己的文化背景和风貌。从时间上来看,服饰史的近代时间界定为清末民国时期。这个时期中,大城市的服饰受西方影响较大,而在乡村里,由于地理环境等诸多因素的限制,西方的服饰文化并没有如在大城市那般盛行,因此乡村之中的服饰多为中国传统服饰的沿袭。本文中所提到的近代民间服饰比较倾向于这个时期中的中国乡村服饰。用符号学的理论对服饰的意义要素,即服饰的形制、色彩、材质、服饰图案和工艺这五个方面进行分析,提炼出相应的形制符号,色彩符号,材质符号,服饰图案符号以及工艺符号。我国的家用纺织品行业既是一个传统行业,同时又是一个新兴行业,发展空间极为广阔。本篇文章中在对叠石桥国际家纺城的设计现状进行分析后,发现将中国元素应用于家纺设计具有一定的现实意义,能够让现代家纺设计更具文化内涵。中国近代民间服饰符号元素属于中国元素,它能够带给现代家纺设计无尽的创作灵感。通过总结,将近代民间服饰符号元素应用于现代家纺设计中主要有两种方式:直接应用和间接应用。同时可以通过借助打散重组、切割错位、减法法则、加法法则、中西融合等现代设计方法将近代民间服饰符号元素更为灵活地应用到现代家纺设计中去。更多还原

【Abstract】 Semiotics is a science that used to study the symbols, the study object of semiotics including the nature and changing rules, various significance of symbols, the relationship between different symbols and the people’s behavior .From the perspective of semiotics, all meaningful things can be called symbols. The garment ,as a reflection of the social culture, its style changing, material using, color matching , pattern choosing and so on could record the particular period of productivity and technology level and reflect people’s aesthetic ideas and life interest.The folk costume in Han nationality is an independent dress system, it has formed its own cultural background and style during historical inheritance and development. From the perspective of time, the neoteric history of garment defines as later Qing Dynasty and the republic of China. In this period, the dress in big cities received a great influence from western countries, in the countryside, due to various limitation of geographical environment and so on, the western dress culture was not as popular as big cities, so most dress in countryside were inheritance form traditional garment. In this article, the concept of neoteric folk costume tends to garment form countryside. Take an analysis with the theory of semiotics on the meaningful elements of costume, including five parts: shapes, color, texture, apparel pattern and craft and refining the shape symbols, color symbols, material symbols, apparel pattern symbols and craft symbols.The Home Textile in our country is a traditional and new industry; it has a wide developing space. In this article, after analyzing the present situation in home textile design of Folding Stone Bridge and realizes that there is a certain practical significance about using Chinese elements in home textile design; it will make the modern home textile with more cultural connotation. The neoteric folk costume symbols belong to the Chinese elements, it will take to the modern home textile with endless creative inspiration. After summarizing, there are two ways that uses neoteric folk costume symbols into home textile design, that is, direct application and indirect application. At the same time, we could get help from the modern design methods of Scattering and Restructuring, Cutting and Dislocation, Subtraction, Addition and Combination of Chinese and Western, and apply the neoteric folk costume symbols into modern home textile design more flexibly.更多还原