【作者】 徐敏智；

【导师】 吴志明；

【作者基本信息】 江南大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2011， 硕士

【摘要】 随着服饰个性化时代的到来,连裤袜作为女装主要的服饰品之一,也呈现出丰富的个性和特色。如今连裤袜已经开始向人们展示她的独特魅力,也越来越受到人们的关注。连裤袜的种类很多,其中经编提花袜的图案和色彩均与流行趋势联系密切,可在工作、生活、娱乐、交际等不同场合穿用,深受女性消费者的青睐。目前经编连裤袜的生产尚未成熟,对连裤袜尺寸的控制是未能根本解决的难题之一,没有有效的方法控制连裤袜尺寸,在实际织造时通常依靠技术人员的经验进行反复试织,本课题针对连裤袜尺寸影响因素进行系统、深入的研究。本课题首先阐述了经编连裤袜的编织原理,并且以双色连裤袜为例介绍了经编连裤袜的工艺制作方法;接着对40名19-27岁,身高在160cm区域的女大学生进行非接触式三维人体测量,获取下体重要部位数据,分析下体尺寸变化,作为牵拉送经数值分段的依据;最后对花高花宽、组织结构和牵拉送经三个影响经编连裤袜尺寸的因素进行实验设计并进行回归分析。对非接触式三维人体测量获取的数据进行分析,得出:大腿围到腰围的垂直距离占连裤袜总长的23.68%;大腿围到膝围的垂直距离占连裤袜总长的23.06%;膝围到小腿围的垂直距离占连裤袜长度的34.44%;脚长占连裤袜总长的18.82%,据此设定连裤袜牵拉密度的分段;围度方向从腰部到臀部的尺寸逐渐增大,从臀部到脚踝部分的尺寸逐渐减小,据此设计各段的牵拉密度,牵拉密度从袜头到腰部逐渐减小。利用SPSS分析软件对实验数据进行相关性分析,得出:影响长度尺寸的因素主要有花高（x₁）、组织结构（x₃）和牵拉密度（x₄）三个因素,且花高和组织结构的影响较大,牵拉密度影响较小;影响围度尺寸的因素主要有花宽（x₂）、组织结构（x₃）和牵拉密度（x₄）三个因素,其中花宽和组织结构影响较大,牵拉密度影响较小,臀围尺寸还受贾卡梳送经量（x₆）的影响,但是影响较小。通过回归分析,得出袜长（y₁）、内长（y₂）、前浪（y₃）、臀围/2（y₄）、大腿围/2（y₅）和膝围/2（y₆）六个重要部位尺寸的回归方程:y 1 = 0. 059x₁+1.018x₃-4.265x₄+24.034y 2 = 0. 045x₁+0.617x₃-3 .237x₄+19.028y 3 = 0. 014x₁+0.399x₃-1.017x₄+4.742y 4 = 0. 126x₂+0.814x₃-6.713x₄-0.003x₆+57.060y 5 = 0. 061x₂+0.433x₃-1.522x₄+8.396y 6 = 0. 057x₂+0.426x₃-1.479x₄+8.550本课题的研究成果有助于经编无缝连裤袜打样人员快速、准确地确定经编连裤袜的尺寸,从而可以提高生产效率,降低成本。更多还原

【Abstract】 With the era of personalized apparel, women’s pantyhose as one of the major apparel products, also presents a rich personality and characteristics. Now pantyhose has already begun to demonstrate her unique charm, and attract more and more people’s attention. Many different types of pantyhose, which warp knitting socks pattern and color are closely linked with fashion trends, you can wear on different pantyhose when you work, live, entertainment, communication and other occasions, and attract female consumers of all ages. At present the production of warp knitting is not yet mature pantyhose, pantyhose size of the control is not one of the fundamental solution of the problem, there is no effective way to control pantyhose size, the actual weaving is usually rely on the experience of repeated technical staff trial organization, the issue size for pantyhose factors affecting the system, in-depth research.The subject begins by describing the principle of warp knit pantyhose, and an example to color the warp pantyhose pantyhose craft production methods; select 19-27 years old, 160cm tall in the area of female college students,use non-contact three-dimensional body measurement,get the important parts of the data for the lower body, the data provide the analysis of the change, as the pull-off value of sub-basis; the height and width of the pattern, organizational structure and stretch warp let-off three impact pantyhose size factors experimental design and regression analysis.For non-contact three-dimensional body measurement for the analysis of the data obtained: Thigh to waist pantyhose total length of the vertical distance of 23.68%; thigh to the knee pantyhose around the vertical distance accounted for 23.06% of the total length; knee around the calf circumference of the vertical distance from the 34.44% total length of pantyhose; pantyhose feet long accounted for the total length of 18.82%, whereby the density of the sub-set pantyhose stretch; circumference direction from the waist to hip size gradually increased, from hip to ankle portion size decreases, thus pulling the various sections of the design density, stretch socks, head to the waist from the density decreases. Using SPSS analysis software for correlation analysis of experimental data, obtained: the size of the main factors affecting the length of flowering high （x₁）, organizational structure （x₃） and traction density （x₄） three factors, organizational structureand the height of the pattern greater impact, less impact on the density traction; impact circumference size of the main factors the width of the pattern （x₂）, organizational structure （x₃） and traction density （x4） three factors, organizational structure and the width of the pattern greater impact, less impact on the density traction; hip size is also affected by the amount of Jacquard comb-off （x₆） impact, but less affected. Through regression analysis, obtained long socks （y₁）, within the length （y₂）, before the wave （y₃）, Hips/2 （y₄）, thigh circumference/2 （y₅） and knee circumference/2 （y₆） six important parts of the size of the regression equation:y₁ = 0. 059x₁+1.018x₃-4.265x₄+24.034y₂ = 0. 045x₁+0.617x₃-3 .237x₄+19.028y₃ = 0. 014x₁+0.399x₃-1.017x₄+4.742 y₄ = 0. 126x₂+0.814x₃-6.713x₄-0.003x₆+57.060 y 5 = 0. 061x₂+0.433x₃-1.522x₄+8.396 y ₆ = 0. 057x₂+0.426x₃-1.479x₄+8.550The research project will help proofing quickly and accurately determine the size pantyhose warp, which can increase productivity and reduce costs.更多还原