【作者】 陈娜；

【导师】 丁雪梅；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2009， 硕士

【摘要】 调整型束裤是通过缝制成型(可使用衬垫、骨架支撑其材料)而对人体腰腹臀部起到牵引或约束作用,从而保持或调整人体局部尺寸和形态的内衣。以宽裕率设计、针织面料弹性回复率设计、服装款式等结构工艺设计对接触部位施加一定的服装压力,推移人体皮下软组织脂肪定向移动,调整保持合理的尺寸形态,以达到美化人体曲线目的。服装压是影响束裤美体功能性及压力舒适性的关键。深入探讨束裤穿着压力舒适性与其主要影响因素面料拉伸弹性的相关关系,对束裤生产者设计安全舒适的服装压提供数据支持,对消费者选择合理服装压范围与功能的内衣具有参考价值,因此本课题具有一定的社会和经济意义。本文选择收集了8种制作调整型束裤专用的氨纶弹性针织面料,依据项目测体所得华东地区中青年女性标准中间体腰围尺寸为标准,以5.3系列档差3cm前后各推2档得到5档束裤号型,按我国纺织行业标准FZ/T 73019.2-2004针织塑身内衣调整型中的短束裤款式制作了短束裤40条。进行了氨纶经编针织面料的一次拉伸试验、定伸长力试验、定伸长一次拉伸回复试验、定伸长反复拉伸回复试验,同时测试了束裤静态和常规动态下抬腿、迈步、弯腰、下蹲时臀腹部特征部位点臀凸点、前腹中点、侧腹中点的服装压值；最后对束裤的穿着压力感、压力舒适感及美体感进行了主观评价试验。研究得出：1)穿着调整型短束裤动静态时,臀部服装压普遍大于腹部,且不同动作状态下臀腹部特征部位服装压之间呈显著的线性回归关系；各部位不同动作状态服装压与静态服装压之间均成显著的线性回归关系；2)穿着调整型束裤静态时,服装压与压迫感、压迫舒适感、美体感均成弱线形相关关系；得出同时满足人体压迫舒适感与美体感的臀凸点与前腹中点服装压临界值范围；3)调整型束裤针织弹性面料纵向拉伸弹性优于横向,面料横向相对纵向较易积累塑性变形；三次方程可以较好的拟合一次拉伸曲线；4)束裤穿着臀腹部服装压与面料弹性指标横向断裂强力、横向断裂功之间存在显著的非线性负相关关系,与纵向初始模量、纵横向一次拉伸回复率、纵横向五次拉伸回复率之间存在显著的线性正相关关系；纵横向弹性回复率是影响服装压大小的主要因素5)束裤衣料拉伸力、伸长率、束裤宽裕率与服装压之间均存在显著的线性相关关系,得出穿着舒适美体的服装衣料拉伸伸长率范围及面料拉伸力范围。更多还原

【Abstract】 Girdle is a type of pressure foundation wear worn by women to re-shape the lower part of the body by uplifting the hips and compressing the abdomen so as to enhance the aesthetic appearance of the wearer.It imposes clothing pressure on certain body parts, moving subcutaneous fat over the soft tissue directionally, and maintains a suitable body shape to beautify the human body curve based on the craft design such as clothing’s fitness, high elastic recovery of knitted fabrics, garment style and so on.Clothing pressure is the key to the beautify functionality and pressure comfort of girdles. In this paper, relationship between girdles’pressure comfort and elastic stretching of the fabric were penetrated; the dates of this article provided design comfort and better clothing pressure datas for manufactures; references also offered choosing appropriate underwear for customers. Therefore, there is certain social and economic significance in this paper.Eight kinds of normal girdle fabrics were collected, while 40 short girdles were made according to the style of the textile industry standard "FZ/T 73019.2-2004",with waistline of the intermediate body of young and middle-aged female in east China as standard size,5 models of girdles obtained by increasing and decreasing by 3cm respectively based on 5.3 series.Simple tensile test, once and 5th elastic recovery test are respectively carried out. In addition,Clothing pressure on the salient point of hip, the midpoint of abdomen and the midpoint of lateral-abdomen of the body were measured using the related equipment while the wearers varied from static, uplifting leg, stepping, bowing to squatting. Eventually, subjective sensation on pressure sense, pressure comfort and artistic were carried out. The conclusions as follows:1) Clothing pressure on hip is generally higher than pressure on abdomen, no matter static or dynamic. In addition,there is linear regression relationship between clothing pressure of different status; also different body parts have significant linear regression among each other both dynamic and static state2) In static state, clothing pressure has a weak linear relation with pressure comfort, tightness sensation and artistic sensation. Meanwhile, Pressure limitation was calculated, which can meet the requirements on both pressure comfort and artistic sensation.3) The portrait of the fabric of girdles has better elongation and recovery than transverse, but the latter one is easier to accumulate plastic deformation; cubic equation could fit the single tensile curve better. 4) Clothing pressure of hip-abdomen has significant negative nonlinear correlation with weft breaking strength, weft breaking work, significant positive linear correlation with warp initial modulus, warp once and 5th elastic recovery, which is the main factor influencing clothing pressure.5) Clothing pressure has significant linear correlation with tensile strength, elongation and girdles’ fitness. Meanwhile, tensile elongation range and tensile strength range of comfortable and artistic clothing were obtained.更多还原