【作者】 刘珺；

【导师】 陈彬；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计理论与应用， 2009， 硕士

【摘要】 进入21世纪,设计界弥漫着一股“回归自然,以绿色为主”的风潮,倡导这一风潮的仿生学对各个领域的影响日趋显著。日渐成熟完备的仿生设计在当今设计领域已成为最新鲜、最具活力的设计创新方法,是设计回归大自然、追求人性化的具体、可行的方法,正逐渐成为发展过程中的新亮点。本文选取上海地区各主要商圈的百货商场为载体,以上海市20～40岁女性为对象,开展服装上海市仿生服装配饰市场调研、消费者仿生服装配饰偏好度调研以及仿生服装配饰消费者审美评价实验。本文建立四个预期目标：预期目标1找出自然生物在轮廓形态、色彩材质及肌理特征等方面可为服装配饰设计借鉴的特质,为建立配饰仿生设计的素材库提供参考；预期目标2建立一套仿生配饰设计的基本方法和一般流程,使服装配饰的形态仿生和功能仿生达到更完美的结合；预期目标3探讨基于仿生设计的服装配饰与人们审美需求之间的内在联系,归纳出基于消费者的仿生配饰的审美评价指标；预期目标4预测配饰仿生设计的发展趋势。为了达到预期目标1,本文通过相关理论文献综述,历时14天实地调研,共调研商场28家,调研品牌44个,调研样本2032件。根据调研数据分析,本文把仿生设计在服装配饰设计中的应用总结归类为：形态仿生、肌理仿生、色彩仿生3大类。形态仿生可以分为4小类：动物形态仿生、植物形态仿生、天体形态仿生和其他仿生。其中,动物形态仿生共26个细分种类,其中陆地动物仿生有19个细分种类,海洋动物仿生有7个细分种类,植物形态仿生有5个细分种类,天体形态仿生有3个细分种类心型是占比较大的其他仿生形态；肌理仿生的有825个样本。占样本总量的40.6%。经调研统计发现主为贝壳、蛇皮、叶子、花的肌理仿生；色彩仿生中,经调研统计发现主为明度高、明快、恬静。为了便于清晰直观看到,已将本调研记录结果分析、修正制成表格,并且绘制出饼状图及柱状图。为了达到预期目标2,阅读大量该领域的文献资料和书籍,对所掌握的资料进行深入地阅读和筛选,对仿生学、仿生设计学、服装设计学、服装配饰设计学和美学等领域有全面的了解。邀请了3名权威的专家教授进行深入访谈,获取关于仿生配饰设计的建设性的指导意见。为了达到预期目标3和4,本文通过网络和实地拍摄获取267张仿生服装配饰的高清图片。根据前期调研中市场配饰价格定位,在高、中、低三档中选择具有代表性的品牌产品图片。并且图片需要涵盖形态仿生、色彩仿生、肌理仿生等三个方面。最后经过筛选得出本研究所需图片30张。然后用Photoshop对图片进行处理,使这些图片具有相同的背景色。将这30张图片制作成幻灯片,共10套。然后借助SPSS13.0统计软件对消费者对仿生服装配饰语意差异量表每题的打分算其均值,该均值可以代表消费者对该细分条目的偏好程度。将消费者对30张图片的得分均值进行统计,制成量表。为便于分析,再次借助spss13.0统计软件,采用因子分析法对该20个审美指标进行降维,找出影响消费者对仿生配饰的主要审美评价指标,为本文仿生服装配饰的发展趋势预测奠定基础,对仿生配饰设计起到指向性作用。更多还原

【Abstract】 Since 21st century, the circles of design filled with a fashion subject name "return to nature, green-oriented", bionics is the advocator of this wave that influenced in all field distinctly everyday. As mature of the bionics design, it is become the newest; the most dynamic and innovative design methods at the design field now a day. And it’s the specific and practical way to let design back to nature, pursue the humanization. It’s also becoming the new bright spot in the process of the development.This paper has selected the stores in Shanghai’s main business district for carrier, and chooses the age from 20 to 40-year-old females in Shanghai for the target, to carry out the bionic clothing accessories research in Shanghai, research the customer’s predilection and experiment client’s aesthetic evaluation of bionics clothing accessories.This paper has set up 4 targets:Target 1:Find out the natural biological profile in the shape, color, texture, and the characteristics of the material which can be used as accessories for clothing design, and provide the reference to set up the bionic designed database.Target 2:Established a system of the basic method and process for bionics accessories designed to achieve the function and form of bionic clothing accessories perfect combination.Target 3:Investigate the intrinsic connection between the bionics clothing accessories designed with the people’s aesthetic needs, up with the aesthetic evaluation of consumer-based for bionic accessories.Target 4:Forecast the development trend in Bionic accessories designed.In order to the target 1, the paper against the relevant theoretical literature review, during 14days field survey, the total of research is 28 shopping malls,44 brand and 2032 samples. According to analysis of survey date, the used of bionic in clothing accessories designed was summed up and classified as:Bionic form, Bionic texture and Bionic color.Bionic form can be classified as 4 items:Bionic form of animal, bionic form of plant, bionic form of celestial bodies and the others. The bionic form of animal has 26 sub-bionic types, the land animals bionic have 19 types, and the ocean animals bionic have 7 types, the plant bionic have 5 types, the celestial bodies bionic have 3 types. The heart is the larger proportion of other bionic forms; Bionic texture has 825 samples, accounted for 40.6 percent of the total sample. After revealed and statistics, the main bionic texture as shell, snake skin, leaves, and flowers; after research found that the main of the bionic color is high-brightness, crisp and quiet. In order to facilitate the visual clarity, the results of this study have been made the table and drew a bar and pie chart.In order to the target 2, have read the large number of books and literatures of this field, and filter the available information deeply. So, at the bionics, bionic design, fashion design, clothing accessories design, aesthetics and the other areas have a complete recognized. Have invited 3 authoritative experts and professors to interview, and get some constructive guidance of bionic accessories design.In order to the target 3 and 4, this paper including 267 high-definitions bionic clothing accessories pictures through the network and on the spot. According to the preliminary investigation of the price position of accessories market, I choose representative brand pictures for three grades as high, medium and low.The pictures are including bionic form, bionic color and bionic texture. After screening and processed the pictures have the same background color by Photoshop, I selected 30 images for this study, and make those to 10 suits of slides. Then get help from SPSS 13.0 to average the scores for different item of "Client’s bionic clothing accessories Semantic Differential Scale Method", the value can show the client’s predilection level for this item, statistical the average scale of consumers by this 30 pictures and made it to a form. In order to facilitate the analysis, re-used of statistical software SPSS 13.0, Using factor analysis to dimensionality reduction this 20 aesthetic indicates, and find out the main aesthetic indicates for influence the consumers at bionic accessories, it’s laid a foundation for the trend of bionic clothing accessories,and also had directivity actions.更多还原