【作者】 冯甘红；

【导师】 刘咏梅；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2009， 硕士

【摘要】 随着社会的发展,人们对服装造型完美、着装舒适的要求越来越高,而服装结构的优化是满足人们对高质量服装需求的重要问题之一。对于圆装袖服装,袖窿是衣身和衣袖的结合部位,其形态特征和内部结构同时影响着衣身的造型和衣袖的形态特征,合理的袖窿形态是一件服装衣身结构平衡的验证,又是衣袖造型完美的保证。但由于袖窿的形态特征不直接独立呈现,对其三维形态特征的研究较难,故这方面的研究也相对较少。本文从袖窿三维形态出发,采用定性和定量相结合的分析方法,着重研究袖窿三维形态与衣身造型和衣袖造型的关系,袖窿三维形态特征与衣身结构和衣袖结构的关系,并在此基础上探讨女装圆装袖结构优化问题。具体研究内容分为以下几个方面：(1)袖窿三维形态特征描述。课题首先以原型袖窿为基础进行袖窿形态特征的分析,提取影响袖窿形态的因子,阐述袖窿三维形态特征的概念：①袖窿关键点的空间位置确定,包括：肩点、前胸点、后背点、袖窿底点②袖窿与人体臂根围的空间关系③关键点空间位置所控制袖窿弧线的三维形态特征。(2)袖窿三维形态与衣身造型、衣身结构关系的研究。课题从前后袖窿浮余量变化出发,设计16件不同大小袖窿浮余量的样衣进行实验,定量研究袖窿浮余量变化、袖窿前后浮余量分配与袖窿三维形态特征之间的关系；分析袖窿三维形态特征与衣身结构平衡之间的关系,为服装设计中袖窿浮余量的确定提供依据。(3)袖窿三维形态与衣袖造型、衣袖结构关系的研究。课题从影响袖窿三维形态的主因子——袖窿底点的位移出发,设计袖窿底点纵向位移和横向位移变化的18件样衣进行实验,测量每件样衣的袖窿形态数据以及衣袖形态特征指数,运用相关分析和回归分析,建立相关的数学模型。针对袖窿底点变化的18个不同形态的袖窿进行配袖实验,研究了袖窿形态特征与配袖结构关系以及袖窿高和袖窿倾斜角度与装袖造型夹角之间的关系。(4)袖窿三维形态与袖山头风格关系的研究。课题提炼归纳袖山头的风格特征概念,将女装袖山头风格分为三类：尖长形风格、圆弧形风格和圆球形风格。通过对袖窿形态数据的分析,建立袖山头风格所对应的袖窿三维形态模型和袖山弧线结构模型。(5)验证实验。总结结构模型及其实用方法,并通过包含各不同风格特征元素的综合实例进行模型应用验证。本文基于理论基础,结合实验研究,对实验数据运用SPSS软件进行分析,建立袖窿浮余量与衣身关系模型、袖窿底点横向变化与衣袖结构关系模型、袖窿底点纵向变化与衣袖结构关系模型、不同袖山头风格与袖窿三维形态特征关系模型,并通过具体实例分析和样衣的制作对所建立的模型进行了检验。更多还原

【Abstract】 With the development of society, perfect clothing shapes and comfortable dress are being demanded higher and higher, while clothing structural optimization is one of the important issues which are to meet people’s demand for high-quality clothing.For the clothing with basic suit-dress’s sleeve, armhole is a combination of body parts and sleeves, and its morphological features and internal structure also affect the shape of body and the form of sleeves. A reasonable armhole is a authentication of apparel structure balance fitting the body and the perfect guarantee of sleeves’shape. However, due to the morphological features of armhole not showing directly and independently, the study on three-dimensional shape is more difficult, so this kind of research is also relatively less.In this paper, the analysis methods of a qualitative and quantitative combination was used to research the relationship between three-dimensional shape of armhole, which was our research key, and the apparel style、the sleeve style. On this basis, the structural optimization of the basic suit-dress’s sleeve was probed into. Specific research was as follows:(1) The characterization of armhole’s three-dimensional shape. First of all, the morphological characteristics of armhole were analyzed based on the prototype of armhole. The impact factor was extracted and the concept of three-dimensional shape was expounded:①The spatial location’s key point of armhole was determined including shoulder point, chest width point, back width point and the underarm point.②The spatial relationship between armhole of apparel and arm circumference of human body was ensured.③The three-dimensional morphology of armhole’s arc under the control of the spatial location’s key point was made certain.(2) The study on the relationship between armhole’s three-dimensional shape and body structure.16 clothes with different sizes of armhole complement were designed based on the changes of complement. The relationship between the allowance of front complement and back complement and the distribution law of them and characteristics of three-dimensional shape of the armhole were researched quantitatively; the relationship between three-dimensional shape of armhole and the balance of body structure was analyzed, which provided a basis to determine the armhole complement.(3) Study on the relationship between armhole’s three-dimensional shape and the sleeve’s shape and structural. The main factor impacting three-dimensional shape of armhole-the displacement of underarm point was as the starting point.18 clothing experiments was designed according to the change of vertical and horizontal displacement of underarm point. The form data of apparel’s armhole and sleeve morphology index ware measured. The relevant mathematical model was established through the method of correlation analysis and regression analysis. The best match experiments for changes in 18 different forms of the underarm point was done, which was aimed at studying the relationship between morphological characteristics of armhole and the structures of sleeves and the relationship between the height and tilt angle of armhole and angular separation of the fitted shape of sleeve.(4) Study on the relationship between the three-dimensional shape of armhole and the style of the crown. The concept of the crown style was refined, which divided the crown style of suit-dress into three categories:pointed-long-shaped style, arc-shaped style and spherical style. Through the analysis of morphological data of armhole, a three-dimensional shape model of armhole and the structure model of the crown for the different styles of the crown were established.(5) Verification experiment. Structure model and its practical approach was aggregated, and model applied verification was carried out about integrated examples containing elements of all different styles.The paper was based on the combination of theoretical and experimental research. Experimental data was analyzed by SPSS software. Four relations mode establishment were as following:the relation mode between armhole complement and body structure; the relation mode between the horizontal change of underarm point and sleeve structure; the relation mode between the vertical change of underarm point and sleeve structure; the relation mode between different styles of the crown and three-Dimensional shape of the armhole. These models were tested by analysis of concrete examples and the production of clothing.更多还原