【作者】 黄晓琴；

【导师】 张文斌； 张道英；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 通过研究文胸的发展现状可知,现在的文胸结构设计比较注重对女性人体的舒适性方面的研究,尤其在文胸对乳房的压力舒适性方面的研究更为突出。而文胸企业中很少着手去关注这方面的问题。本文从文胸的结构,罩杯的省道角的设计,来研究省道角的分配与乳房的压力舒适性、文胸塑型效果之间的相关性,从而得出优化的文胸版型。本文首先以学习前人研究的文胸基础纸样为基础,提取文胸相关的人体数据,结合测量上海地区18～25岁之间的年轻女性的人体数据,得到新的符合文胸设计要求的人体数据,对人台进行补正,用立体裁剪与平面纸样设计相结合的方法,找真人模特试穿,反复修改纸样,得出新的文胸基础纸样；然后对文胸的省道量进行分配,设计出包括基础文胸样衣在内的十一款风格的文胸,有一片式,两片式,三片式3/4罩杯；再通过客观测试文胸的塑型效果穿着实验以及文胸罩杯对乳房的压强值的客观测试实验;最后用SPSS统计分析软件分析以上两个客观测试实验,得出文胸省道角的设计与塑型效果值和压强值之间的相关关系数学模型,并分析省道角与塑型效果值和省道角与压强值的关系,得出符合优化条件的文胸省道角的分配方案,并从设计的十一款文胸中选出符合条件的文胸,研究其版型。本文研究的创新点是把人们比较关注的压力舒适性、文胸的塑型效果与文胸的版型设计结合起来,从而得出舒适性和塑型效果都较好的文胸纸样。总的来说,文胸对乳房的压力是正面的,它可以使女性的乳房产生优美的曲线,乳房受文胸的压力也比较小,容易受压的部位是乳房下部和腋下部。把省道角的设计与文胸的塑型穿着效果和对乳房的压力紧密的联系起来,从而也关注女性的健康,为企业的文胸设计研发提供参考,具有积极的研究意义。更多还原

【Abstract】 Through the research on the the status quo of bra’s development,we know that the pattern design of bra is studied mainly on the domain of the comfort on the femail’s body, especially it takes high attention to the bra’s pressure comfort on the breast.However,some brassiere companies seldom stick to do research on the problem. This thesis will study the relevance between the dart distribution of the bra cup,its pressure on the breast and the body type moulding of bra,from the dart corner design of a cup which is the structure of bra. And the result is that,it can get the optimized bra pattern design.The thesis study the former’s basis sample pattern of bra firstly to collect the relevant data of the bra,combining the measurement of the femail body data between 18 to 25 years old in shanghai,we can get the body measurement data concerning the design of the bra pattern,and ustizing the data to modify the body model, combining three dimensional and two dimensional clothing cutting method.After having done the bra’s basis sample pattern, we should search some appropriate femail to put on to modify the sample pattern again and again,and get the new right sample pattern.Secondly,distribute the dart corner of the bra cup,and design the eleven different bras conculding bra which is made using the sample bra pattern.There are one-piece type cup,two-pieces type cup,three-pieces type cup,they are all the three quarters-cup. Thirdly,this paper will do two impersonal experiments, the one pratice is the bra try-on with the body type moulding impact on the real person,another is the measurement of bra’s cup pressure on the breast.Fourthly,the paper will use the statistics software SPSS to anlyze the data of the two experiments to get the relevance between the dart distribution of the bra cup and its pressure on the breast as well as the bra’s body type moulding impact result.And the paper will anlyze the mathematics model of them,and get the methods of dart corner distribution design according with the condition of the bra pattern optimization.At last,the paper will chose the most appropriate bra from the eleven different bras to study the pattern making method.The innovation spot of this paper is more concerned about connecting the presssure comfort on the breast,bra pattern and bra try-on impact to get the best pattern with the comfortable pressure and good impact of bra try-on.In a word, the bra pressure’ impact on the breast is positive,it can create the beautiful curve of the breast.And the pressure on the breast is very small,and the pressure on the underside breast and armpit is stronger. The paper studies the task through combining the dart corner distribution of the bra cup with bra try-on impact and the comfort pressure on the breast, and taking high attention on the femail body health,also afford ing reference to the reasearch on the bra structure in bra industry,which has very positive research significance.更多还原