【作者】 窦倩；

【导师】 杨道圣；

【作者基本信息】 北京服装学院 ， 艺术学， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 通过阐述威廉·莫里斯审美趣味形成的背景、影响因素及莫里斯对工业趣味的反抗等,分析了维多利亚时代英国资产阶级审美趣味的两个矛盾。一个矛盾是他们一方面模仿贵族的审美趣味,另一方面试图与贵族趣味进行区分;另一个矛盾是他们一方面追求高雅趣味,另一方面却制造低劣趣味。第一个矛盾是通过分析资产阶级使用莫里斯公司室内装饰产品的目的和动机来反映的。对莫里斯公司室内装饰产品的使用被他们当成炫耀性消费的途径,从而实现对贵族生活方式和审美趣味的模仿。同时,他们又通过这些产品来表达与贵族审美趣味的不同。第二个矛盾是通过分析莫里斯对机器生产的反抗来反映的。资产阶级自己使用的是具有良好审美趣味的手工业产品。但是,他们用机器制造出来的产品的审美趣味却极其低劣,致使当时英国产品的审美趣味比法国落后很多。这一趣味方面的矛盾也反映了当时资产阶级在物质追求和精神追求上的矛盾以及趣味和工业化的矛盾。工业和手工业分别制造出来的两种趣味还强化了资产阶级与其下层间的区分。结果,威廉·莫里斯试图改善整个英国社会趣味的实践最终失败。更多还原

【Abstract】 This dissertation analyzes two contradictions of British bourgeois taste in the Victorian Age by way of discussing the background and influential factors under which William Morris’s taste came out and describing Morris’s struggles which were against the industrial taste. One of the contradictions is that the bourgeois imitated the taste of the aristocratic on one side and they also attempted to distinguish their taste from that of the aristocratic. The other contradiction is that they pursued good taste as they produced bad taste. And the first contradiction is mirrored by analyzing the purpose and motivation of the bourgeois’use of interior decorations made by Morris’s company. Productions of Morris’s company were used as a means of conspicuous consumption by the bourgeois in order to imitate the life style and taste of the aristocratic. At the same time, they also expressed the differences between their taste and that of the aristocratic through those productions. And the second contradiction is reflected by analyzing Morris’s fighting against the industrial taste. The bourgeois used the handicrafts with good taste, but what they produced by machines were of bad taste, which led to the taste of the British productions falling behind that of the French productions. This contradiction of taste reflects other two contradictions: one is the contradiction between their pursuit of material benefits and spiritual values; the other is the contradiction between taste and industrialization. Machine industry and handicraft industry made different taste respectively, which reinforced the distinction between the bourgeois and their lower class. As a result, Morris’s attempt to improve the taste of the whole British society ended in failure.更多还原