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优雅的反叛

Rebellion with Elegance-a Brief Analysis of Dandy’s Aesthetic Taste

【作者】 张悟岩

【导师】 杨道圣;

【作者基本信息】 北京服装学院 , 艺术学, 2010, 硕士

【副题名】纨绔子审美趣味初探

【摘要】 纨绔子产生在18、19世纪的欧洲英法两国,极度讲究服饰,追求生活的艺术化。本文将其分为审美型纨绔子和智力型纨绔子两类。纨绔子的审美趣味主要体现在生活方式和消费方式上,尤以服饰最为典型。本文概述了纨绔子审美趣味在服饰上的表现,总结出其服饰具有优雅、精致、简洁的特点,并着重分析了纨绔子具有的一系列矛盾,指出其具有精神贵族、追求极致和反叛的精神特质。纨绔子不满传统贵族的保守,又鄙视新兴资产阶级的功利。他在新旧之间徘徊,通过对两者的扬弃,发展出自己独特的审美趣味。纨绔子引领了时尚,与日常生活审美化和消费社会有密切的关系。

【Abstract】 The dandy is known for the good taste of dressing and an artistic life. In this paper, dandy is divided into two types: aesthetic dandy and intellectual dandy. The aesthetic taste of dandy is reflected by the way of his life and his consumption style, especially the way he dressed. By discussing the aesthetic taste in dressing, three characteristics of his dressing style are concluded: elegance, exquisite and simple. Furthermore, this paper put emphasis on the conflict sides of the dandy, and indicates the intellectual aristocrats, the pursuit of perfection and the spirit of rebellion of him. The dandy is not satisfied with the conservative of traditional aristocracy and despises the utilitarian of the emerging bourgeois. Learning from the new and the old period, the dandy developed a unique aesthetic taste through absorbing the essence, and rejecting the dross. As a leader of fashion development, the dandy’s style has a great influence in accelerating the aesthetics of daily life and the arrival of consumption society.

【关键词】 纨绔子时尚反叛趣味矛盾
【Key words】 dandyfashionrebellioninterestconflict
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