【作者】 周雯；

【导师】 范雪荣；

【作者基本信息】 江南大学 ， 纺织工程， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 羊毛织物作为一种高档纺织面料,由于其丰满、挺括、保暖性好等特点,长期受到人们青睐。但特殊的鳞片结构使其极易发生毡缩,并给染色、整理等纺织加工带来困难。蛋白酶作用于羊毛纤维,能催化肽键水解,被认为是替代传统的氯化-树脂防毡缩整理工艺的最具潜力的方法。但羊毛鳞片外层由胱氨酸含量极高的角蛋白构成,蛋白酶对其没有降解作用,因此必须对羊毛进行氧化或还原等预处理,存在环境污染问题。角蛋白酶是专一性降解角蛋白的一类蛋白酶,由真菌、放线菌或细菌等多种微生物产生,对毛、发、羽、鳞、甲等含角蛋白底物具有降解作用,在饲料、医药、食品、制革等领域应用广泛。本文采用一株枯草芽孢杆菌(Bacillus subtilis)产角蛋白酶和蛋白酶一浴法处理羊毛,通过毡缩率、减量率、强力、染色性能、织物风格、抗起毛起球性、白度等指标考察两种酶协同作用对羊毛防毡缩以及其他性能的影响,并结合蛋白多肽释放速率曲线、Allworden反应、SEM、红外光谱、氨基酸分析等手段,对一浴法的协同效应对羊毛的作用机理做了初步研究,并针对一浴法强力损伤过大的缺点,采用MTG修复强力损伤。试验结果表明:与羊毛未处理样以及单独酶处理样相比,经角蛋白酶和蛋白酶一浴法处理后的羊毛织物毡缩率明显降低,可达到机可洗的要求,上染速率提高,白度增加,抗起毛起球性能提高,但织物的减量率较大,强力下降,染色K/S值降低。水解液中蛋白多肽浓度变化显示一浴法能有效提高蛋白多肽的释放速率,并且蛋白酶对角蛋白酶的结构稳定性没有明显影响;羊毛Allw?rden现象和润湿性测试结果表明鳞片表层类脂已基本去除;SEM结果显示羊毛鳞片已基本剥离;红外光谱数据显示,一浴法能将鳞片层胱氨酸氧化成磺基丙氨酸;氨基酸分析结果表明,处理后羊毛的大部分氨基酸含量下降。说明角蛋白酶能促进蛋白酶对羊毛鳞片的降解,两者一浴法的协同作用能有效去除羊毛鳞片,对羊毛具有明显的改性作用。采用MTG能有效修复一浴法的强力损伤,并使织物毡缩率进一步下降,润湿性、染色性能进一步改善。更多还原

【Abstract】 Wool fabric as a high-grade textile material because of its features, such as plump, crisp and warm, was long favored by people. However, it can easily become felting due to its special scale structure, and lead to difficult dyeing and finishing for textile processing. Protease acting on wool fiber, can catalyze the hydrolysis of the peptide bond, is considered to be the most promising process which can replace the traditional chlorination-resin anti-shrinkage finishing process. However, the outer scales of wool consist of many keratins containing high amount of cystines, and there is no degradation from protease, so it is necessary for oxidation or reduction pretreatment of wool, which leads to environmental pollution.Keratinase is a kind of protease having specific degradation ability to keratin. It could be producted from fungis, actinomycete, bacterias or other microorganisms, and can degrade keratin substrates, such as animal hair, person hair, feather, scales and nails. Therefore, it is widely used in the feed, medicine, food, leather and other fields.A novel keratinase from Bacillus subtilis with protease was used to treat wool fabrics in a bath in this paper. The synergistic effect of the two enzymes and anti-felting property and other properties of wool were studied according to felting shrinkage, weight loss, strength, dyeing properties, fabric style, anti-fuzzing and pilling, whiteness and so on. Combining with polypeptide release rate curve, wool Allw?rden phenomenon, SEM, infrared spectrum and amino acid analysis, a preliminary study on the mechanism of this synergistic effect of one-bath process on the wool. MTG was used to repair the strength damage of wool in view of the disadvantage that there are too much strength loss after one-bath treatment.Experimental results showed that, compared with specimens untreated or only treated by individual enzyme, the felting shrinkage of wool fabric treated with keratinase and protease in a bath dropped significantly, which had reached machine washable requirements, and dyeing rate, whiteness, anti-fuzzing and pilling performance increased, but the fabric weight loss was larger, strength and K/S reduced.UV spectrum of the hydrolyte solution showed that one-bath process could effectively improve the polypeptide release rate, and protease had no obvious effect on the structural stability of keratinase. Wool Allw?rden phenomena and wetting test results showed that the lipid on scales had been basically removed. The result of SEM showed that wool scales had been basically stripped. Infrared spectrum analysis indicated that one-bath process could oxidize cystine to cysteic acid. Amino acid analysis showed that the majority of the amino acid content of wool decreased after treatment. These results indicated that keratinase could promote protease to degrade wool scales, and the synergistic effect of the two enzymes was able to remove wool scales effectively, as well as a significant modification on wool.MTG could repair strength loss of the wool fabric after one-bath treatment, and gave a further decline in felting shrinkage of fabric, also let wettability and dyeing performance be further improved.更多还原