【作者】 侯小伟；

【导师】 李云台；

【作者基本信息】 江南大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 随着人们生活节奏的加快和背负物件的增多,单肩包逐渐成为在校大学生和经常出差的各类职业者的首选必备品。近些年来,已经有不少学者对肩带进行过研究,其中比较成熟的主要是对女性文胸的肩带所进行的设计研究,主要从功能、色彩、材料、造型、工艺方面比较全面的进行了一系列的舒适性设计。而对于单肩包带的研究主要从设计学的角度给出了一些设计构想,尚未发现重点针对包带舒适性相关因子建立舒适性模型的研究,也尚未发现以力学和相关数学知识为基础主要从包带自身的结构造型角度解决单肩包带所存在的舒适性问题,同时未发现通过市场调研从主观方面评价包带新产品舒适性的有关研究,因此有关其舒适性的研究和结构设计将有着更为出色的功能和更为广阔的发展前景。本文采用市场调查、数据分析、理论研究、实践操作和实验测试相结合的方法,从实际调研出发,发现了单肩包带存在的问题以及结构设计的不足之处,以人体造型学、结构设计原理、数学、物理学相关原理和面料的有关知识等等为基础,对单肩包带的舒适性相关因子进行了详细的分析研究。全文从人体的肩斜度、单肩包带的材料、结构、包带作用于人体肩部的力学特征如摩擦因数等方面提取出影响单肩包带舒适性的相关因子,极具启发性:一、建立单肩包带的主客观评价因子的相互关系。通过市场调查运用图形学中的线条与造型理论建立单肩包带主客观评价因子,利用数学统计软件进行处理,提取出与主观评价值相关性最好的单肩包带造型客观成型指标,分别为“包带倾斜度”、“内沿边线弧度”、“包带宽度”、“外沿边线上翘弧度”。此为本文的创新点之一。二、单肩包带舒适性相关因子之间的关联性研究,包括肩部造型与肩带结构、面料与主客观成型指标、包带结构与主观评价等方面。(1)肩部造型与包带结构之间的关联性研究。以人体肩部的肌肉、骨骼造型为基础,建立单肩包带的结构与人体肩部造型的相关性联系;(2)面料与主客观成型指标之间的关联性研究。以对常用单肩包带的材料进行实验测试和物理学力学原理为基础,建立面料的力学性能与单肩包带舒适性之间的相关性联系;(3)包带结构与主观评价之间的关联性研究。以对单肩包带进行不同的倾角处理为基础,制作包带并建立包带的结构与肩部舒适性之间的相关性联系;以上分析研究是对单肩包带的舒适性相关因子的深入阐述和实质研究,是本论文的创新点之二。三、单肩包带舒适性相关因子的综合研究。提取出单肩包带舒适性的相关因子之后,综合分析了肩部造型与包带造型、面料、包带结构等相关因子,并建立回归模型。制作包带并进行主观舒适性测试,最后通过测试结果分析得出结论,是本文章的创新点之三。更多还原

【Abstract】 With the quickening pace of life and objects with people gets more and more,one shoulder bags are becoming the necessity of college students and professionals. In recent years, many scholars have conducted research on the shoulder strap, in which the study on women’s bra strap design is primarily mature.In the study, a more comprehensive series of comfortable designs are carried out mainly from the features, colors, materials, shape and technology. As for the shoulder bag strap,the releted research from the design point of view gives some design ideas, not focusing on shoulder strap for analysis of a series of in-depth study on the related factors of one shoulder bag,and the solution of comfort issues on one shoulder bags from the view of its own shape and structure of the angles based on mechanical and related mathematics-based major not yet been found.At the same time, new products’comfort with the study through market research package from the subjective aspects of evaluation still not exist.So,one shoulder bag with the comfort design will have a more prominent features and broader development prospects.In this paper, the combination of methods as market research analysis, theory, practice and experimental operation appear in the actual survey, structural design problems and shortcomi- ngs of shoulder bag strap are found, then one shoulder bag strap for the comfort-related factors were analyzed in detail based on the knewledge about ergonomics, mathematics, physics principle and the related knowledge-based fabric.All over the text, based on the side of body shoulder slope, material, friction coefficient being as affected shoulder bag strap, including the role of the human shoulder with the mechanical characteristics, to extract the factors related to comfort, which is much enlightening.1, The establishment of one shoulder bag strap of the relationship between subjective and objective evaluation factors. Through the use of graphics, market research lines and shape shoulder bag with the objective and subjective theory of evaluation factors, using mathematical statistical software, and extract the value associated with the subjective evaluation of one shoulder strap of the best form of objective shape indices, as a "package with a gradient", "border line within the arc," "package width", "outer edges upturned arc." This is one innovation of this article.2, Research on one shoulder bag with the correlation between the factors related to each other, including shoulder strap shape and structure, fabric and forming the objective and subjective indicators, band structure and forming the objective and subjective indicators.(1) The correlation study on one shoulder bag strap’s structure and human shoulder shape: muscles, bone shape, based on the establishment of shoulder bag shoulder strap of the structure and shape of the relevance of human contact;(2) Forming fabric and the subjective and objective study of the relationship between indicators. Shoulder bag with shoulder strap on the materials used to conduct laboratory tests and physical mechanics as the basis to establish the mechanical properties of fabric shoulder bag with a comfort with the correlation between the contact;(3) Forming a special structure to deal with subjective and objective study of the relationship between indicators. On the shoulder strap to carry out a different angle based processing, production package with the structure and the establishment of the strap and shoulder comfort of the correlation between the contact; Analysis of the above is the details and substance of research about one shoulder bag with the comfort-related factors go into, innovation of this thesis is the second.3, Shoulder bag with a comfort-related factors in aggregate.After extracting the comfort-related factors of one shoulder bag, the comprehensive analysis of the shoulder shape and covering with modeling, fabric, including band structure and other related factors is carried out, and the establishment of shoulder bag with a comfort-related factors in shaping the subjective and objective indicators of the regression model is going on,then the optimal comfort range of the facters of the bags are obtained based on regression models.Then will be the the one shoulder strap’s actual design and production of special structure and subjective comfort test, finally through the analysis based on the test conclude the result ,being the third innovation of this article.更多还原