【作者】 张姿叶；

【导师】 蒋高明；

【作者基本信息】 江南大学 ， 纺织工程， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 浮纹型贾卡经编织物,又名Cliptronic?织物,是采用RJWB浮纹系列贾卡经编机生产的一种高档织物。它运用piezo贾卡超强的起花能力和特殊的EFS单纱选择装置,在编织提花花纹的同时实现了自动剪线功能,使形成的底布轻薄、通透,浮纹花纹间无多余浮线连接,大大提升了织物的装饰性和附加值。产品被广泛应用于网眼窗帘、台布、弹性或非弹性花边等领域,具有极大的发展潜力和市场前景。课题首先通过上机实验,研究了浮纹型贾卡经编机的机构原理,从EFS与贾卡梳栉的相对配置关系、钩针运动循环、钩针钩纱与JB1.1针背横移的时间配合等方面研究了EFS的运动特性,并根据实验采集的数据绘制成圈运动曲线,详细描述了浮纹类经编机的成圈运动过程,为企业研发浮纹型贾卡经编机提供技术指导。其次通过样布分析和资料查阅,从浮纹主体花纹、地网结构、边部结构及浮纹一次成型产品的结构等方面深入研究了浮纹型贾卡经编织物的结构特征,并绘制垫纱运动图探讨了浮纹贾卡的提花原理。再次建立浮纹织物的意匠设计模型和线圈结构模型,并对实际织物中因衬纬贾卡和压纱贾卡纱线张力导致的线圈横向位移规律做了理论分析,完善浮纹织物的仿真模型。最后应用江南大学经编研究中心自主开发的WKCAD3.0系统,探索出一套系统高效的浮纹织物设计方法,包括花型设计,工艺设计和计算机辅助工艺设计3部分,为企业工艺员工艺设计提供思路。更多还原

【Abstract】 The warp knitted brochéfabric, also named Cliptronic? fabric, is a kind of high-grade fabric which is produced on RJWB jacquard-raschel machines. Based on the application of piezo jacquard system (PJS) and Single-yarn selection mechanism (EFS), it can form special tri-dimensional brochépattern motifs positioned on the light and delicate ground anywhere, by taking out the brochéyarns from the knitting process and by interlacing them later on. This kind of product is widely used as mesh curtain, table-cloth, elastic and non elastic laces, which has great development potential and market prospects.Firstly, via the experiment on the warp knitting brochémachine, the paper studied the working principle of this kind of machine as well as EFS from three aspects: relationship of three piezoelectric jacquard systems, Motion cycle of barbed needle and time coordination of barbed needle collecting yarn and JB1.1 doing underlap. Then based on the experimental data the paper gave the displacement curves of knitting elements and detailed analysis of movement rules in knitting process, with a view to provide technical guidance for enterprise to develop warp knitted brochémachine.Secondly, via fabric analysis and consult reference, the paper made a deep study on the structure characters of brochéfabric from the following aspects: brochépattern structure, ground pattern structure,the edge structure and the Shaped-knitting product。And then the paper discussed the jacquard technology of brochéby drawing the lapping movement.Thirdly, colorized design model and loop structure model were set up.The paper also made a theoretical analysis on the horizontal displacement of loop resulting from inlay jacquard and fall-plate jacquard to make the simulation better.Finally, based on the application of the design and simulation function of brochéfabric on the system WKCAD3.0, the paper came up with a systemic and efficient design method of brochéfabric, including pattern design, technical design and Computer-Aided technical design. All is in order to provide the mentality for designers.更多还原