【作者】 周婷婷；

【导师】 梁民愫；

【作者基本信息】 江西师范大学 ， 世界史， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 1898至1927年是中国社会的清末民初时期,对于整个中国社会的历史进程来说,这是一个至关重要的阶段,是巨大的历史转型和嬗变期。伴随着战争炮火的东来,西方文化也以它独有的方式开拓着中国的市场,悄然渗透到中国大地的每个角落。可以说,这样一场“西风东渐”的狂潮,对整个近代中国的影响是深远而强烈的。一部中国近现代的历史就是一部开放的历史,不管是主动的选择还是被动的接受,市场的资本主义化,国际化,文化之间的交流已不可避免。而这种文化的交流在整个中国近现代来看,都处于西方文化的强制影响之下,因而呈现着西风东渐的特点。服饰,被誉为时代的风向标,社会发展的镜子和指针。因而从整个社会生活层面来说,服饰是最为敏感的反映。服饰是社会风尚衍变的载体和表征。透过服饰的变迁,不仅可以窥探中国社会的进程,探析推动社会发展的深层动因,进步思潮;而且能够对今天的文化建设与中西交流提供借鉴。服饰文化,不仅是物质文明,更是一种精神文化,是一种民俗,也是美的化身,时尚与品位的象征。在西风东渐的影响之下,西方的窄衣文化,服饰观,思想文化观,审美方式,生活方式,科技,及各种先进理念等日益引入中国,并被国人所接受。中国服饰此时在慢慢发生变迁,从鸦片战争以来的渐变,到清末的趋变,民国的突变,服饰文化由传统走向现代。实现了其市场化,自由化,平等化的蜕变。本文研究的核心问题是西风东渐与服饰变迁的关系,集中分析的是都市主流服饰在西风东渐影响下的变迁情况。围绕这一问题,文章主要从三个部分对该问题进行阐述。第一部分首先对自工业革命以来的西方服饰文化的特点,变迁情况,传统及影响进行分析;文章的二三两部分则分别阐释了西方文化影响下的清末、民初两个时期的服饰嬗变情况及各自的变迁特点,影响的具体表现等等。由于1898年至1927年中国资产阶级进入历史舞台,作为社会团体中的一个重要阶层,他们对西方文化的引进,传送,贡献较大。比起前一时期的服饰变革,此时呈现更为激烈、动荡、明显的特点。笔者小文,欲以小见大,反思当下。更多还原

【Abstract】 The period of 1898 to 1927 was the end of Qing dynasty in Chinese society. For the whole historical process of Chinese society, this is a critical stage, and it is a tremendous historic period of transformation and transmutation. Following the fire of war from the East,the Western culture with its unique way to explore the Chinese market. It quietly infiltrated into each corner of the China earth. It can be said that such“the Eastward Transmission of Western Sciences”tide which the influence to the entire modern China is profound and intense. The modern history of china is an open history, whether it is the choice of active or passive acceptance. The market capitalization, the internationalization, and the cross-cultural communication are inevitable. And this cultural exchange under the mandatory influence of western culture in the whole of China in modern times, and it is showing the characteristic of the Eastward Transmission of Western Sciences.Clothing, are honored as the windvane of the time, mirror and the indicator of the social development. Therefore from the entire social life stratification plane, the clothing is the most sensitive reflection. The clothing is the characterization and carrier of the evolution of the social trend. By clothing’s vicissitude, not only may spy on the Chinese society in the process, analyze the deep motivation to promote social development and the progressive ideological trend, but also can provide reference for today’s culture-building and exchange of Chinese and Western learning. Clothing culture, is not only the material civilization, but also a spiritual culture. It is one kind of folk custom, the embodiment of beauty, and a symbol of fashion and taste. Under the influence of the Eastward Transmission of Western Sciences, West’s narrow clothes culture, fashion sense, ideological and culture concept, the esthetic way, the life style, the science and technology, and each advanced idea and so on introduces into China day by day, and are accepted by people increasingly. Chinese clothing change occurs slowly at this time. Since Opium War’s gradation, has hastened to the end of the Qing changes, and become the sudden change of the Republic of China, the clothing culture moves toward the modern age by the tradition.. It has achieved its market, liberalization, equity-oriented transformation..In this paper, the core issue is the relationship between the Eastward Transmission of Western Sciences and clothing change. Focused on analyzing is the situation of urban mainstream clothing change under the influence of the Eastward Transmission of Western Sciences. Around this issue, this article has three main strands to describe the issue. The first part firstly to analyze the characteristic of western clothing culture, the vicissitude situation, the tradition and the influence since the Industrial Revolution. The article parts two and three separately have explained the clothing evolution situation of the late Qing period and early Republic period under the influence of Western culture, and their respective characteristic of vicissitude, and the impact of specific performance, etc. As Chinese bourgeois elements into the stage of history from 1898 to 1927, their contribution was huge to the introduction and the transmission of Western culture for they are important social groups. Compared to the clothing change of previous period, this time showing the feature of more intense turbulence and distinctive. This paper wants to through solving small problem to solve big problem, and reflect the problem in nowadays.更多还原