川西各民族饮食文化研究

【作者】 蒋英；

【导师】 徐万邦；

【作者基本信息】 中央民族大学 ， 民族学， 2010， 博士

【摘要】 饮食是人类赖以生存和发展的首要物质基础,也只有人类把饮食发展成为一种文化。在漫长的历史发展中,人们拓展了饮食的范围,也使得饮食文化包涵了广泛的内容,它既包括食源的开发、食料的拓展、食品的选择与加工、饮食器具的发明和制作、食物的色、香、味、形等物质领域,又包括从饮食实践中展开的各种活动中所形成的饮食观、烹饪观、烹饪技巧、食疗理论及宗教信仰、节日习俗、艺术审美等精神领域。在人类社会发展中,饮食文化必会与人类相伴始终,它永远不会脱离人类的文化和生活,只要人类生生不息,饮食文化也将生生不息。不管从时间的层面,还是从空间的层面看,饮食文化都具有历史性、地域性、民族性、传承性、变异性,这些特性也决定了饮食文化会在发展中不断交流传播并发生变迁。中国的饮食文化在漫长的历史发展中伴随着中华文明的发展不断积淀,形成了独具特色的传统,特别是代表汉族饮食文化大成的各个地方菜系,已经成为中华饮食发展的主要支柱。但是,我们不能忘记中国传统的饮食文化主要是由占人口90%以上的汉民族和55个少数民族共同构建的,正是由于历史上在中华大地生存和繁衍的不同民族的饮食文化相互交流和借鉴,中国饮食文化才能不断发展完善,于今蔚为大观。川西地区是古蜀故地,自古以来就是少数民族聚居地。而川西民族(包括少数民族和汉族)的饮食文化,作为中国饮食文化的重要组成部分,是研究民族文化的重要方面。历史上川西民族地区中的民族流动和更替十分频繁,经过长期的发展,川西地区成了藏族、彝族、羌族的重要聚居地或主要聚居地。从历史视角看,川西少数民族饮食文化的形成发展,主要受经济与地理环境的制约,受生产力发展水平和文化素质的影响。在生产力发展水平较为低下的历史条件下,地理环境往往对饮食文化的发展起着主导作用。而不管是在主食、副食,还是饮料及饮食风俗上,川西少数民族都有自己独特的饮食文化。随着社会经济的发展以及各民族大杂居、小聚居分布格局的形成,在与其他各族的交流中,尤其是与汉族饮食文化的频繁交流中,川西各少数民族的饮食文化发生了较大变化。特别是起源并发展于成都并享誉世界的川菜饮食文化在长期的历史发展中不可避免地会与周围的少数民族发生交流,这种交流使得少数民族饮食文化的因子进入汉族的生活,也使更具有普适性的汉族饮食文化深刻地影响了少数民族饮食文化。这是值得民族学者加以重视和研究的。目前我国研究饮食文化的专著和书籍繁多,‘以猎奇为目的研究少数民族饮食文化的亦不少见。但从民族学的角度,专门以少数民族与具有特色的汉族地方饮食文化的交流为研究对象的还较少。本文就是从川西少数民族与以川菜为代表的汉族饮食文化交流和变迁的角度,运用民族学、人类学、社会学、历史学、经济学等学科的一些理论和方法,研究在现代社会背景下,民族间饮食文化的交流和变迁,进而探讨在现代社会发展中如何保护和传承民族传统饮食文化,并使之不断创新发展。本文分为六大部分。导论主要是介绍研究源起,相关研究综述以及所运用的研究理论和研究方法,并对文中的一些概念作出界定。第一章“川西地区主要少数民族饮食文化交流与变迁”在总结川西藏族、彝族、羌族、回族、蒙古族的传统饮食文化同时,论述了它们在当代社会的发展变迁情况,分析了民族饮食文化交流的具体表现,说明川西少数民族的饮食文化受现代饮食结构及饮食观念的巨大影响。第二章“成都饮食文化的交流与融汇”,主要论述了立足于成都的川菜菜系的形成发展,及成都饮食文化的特色,并结合独具特色的成都客家饮食文化和藏族、回族等饮食文化在成都的表现和变化,说明了不同民族、不同民系饮食文化在成都的融汇是饮食文化交流的必然结果。第三章“川西民族饮食文化交流与变迁解析”主要以民族学、人类学的方法和理论论述了饮食文化的社会功能,解析了饮食文化交流的诸要素。第四章“传统民族饮食文化的现实价值”,主要探讨了在现代社会经济飞速发展的情况下,怎样保护与发展传统民族饮食文化,特别是利用与旅游业、影视传媒业、图书出版业相结合的发展,利用保护非物质文化遗产的契机,在创新中继承和发展我们的传统饮食文化。最后的结论是：川西民族饮食文化的交流和发展是一个长期的历史发展过程,是川西民族文化交流和发展不可忽视的重要一环,不仅对少数民族的饮食进步具有重要作用,对川菜系饮食文化的形成有重要贡献,也对中华饮食文化发展具有不可忽视的贡献,更是对中华民族多元一体文化的形成作出了重要贡献。更多还原

【Abstract】 Diet is the primary material base of mankind’s survival and development, and only humans become eating into a culture. In the long history, people extend the scope of diet, but also make the diet culture encompasses a broad meaning, including the development of food sources, expansion of foodstuffs, food selection and processing, the invention and production of eating utensils, the color, smell, taste, shape of food and other physical areas, it also includes the concept of diet, cooking concept, cooking techniques, dietetic therapeutic theories forming in the various dietary practice and activities, and religious beliefs, holiday consuetude, art and other spiritual and aesthetic areas. With human social development, food culture will always accompany with humans, it will never be divorced from human culture and living. From the perspective of time and space, food culture has historic, regional, national, successive, variable characteristics. These characteristics also determine food culture will endlessly exchange and change in the process of culture development.Chinese food culture has accumulated to form a unique cultural tradition in several thousand years of history along with the continuous development of Chinese civilization. Particularly, those representational local cuisines of the Han food culture have become the main pillar in the development of Chinese catering culture. However, we can not forget that the traditional Chinese food culture is mainly built by the Han people (more than 90% of the population) and 55 ethnic minority groups. Because different nationalities surviving and reproducing in the land of China interact and learn from each other on the food culture, the Chinese food culture continually develop and improve.Western Sichuan is the cradle of the ancient Shu, and is dwelled by the minorities since ancient times. The food culture of the Western Sichuan peoples (including minorities and the Han) as an integral part of Chinese food culture is an important aspect of national culture study. In history, minorities of Western Sichuan flow and migrate very frequently, after a long-term development, and now Western Sichuan became a habitation being made up of Tibetan, Yi, Qiang and other minorities. From a historical perspective, the formation and development of the minorities’food culture of Western Sichuan mainly is influenced by social, economic, geographical environment and the developmental level of productive forces and cultural quality. When the development of productive forces is the low level, geographical environment often plays a leading role for food culture development.Regardless of the staple food, non-staple food, or drink, the Western Sichuan minorities have their own unique food culture. With the development of society and economy, as well as all ethnic groups living together, the food culture of Western Sichuan minorities has taken place in a larger change in exchange with other ethnic groups, particularly with the Han on food culture. In particular, the world-renowned Sichuan food culture coming of and developing in Chengdu will inevitably exchange with the surrounding ethnic minorities in the long history. Such exchanges would make the factors of ethnic minorities’food culture into the Han people’s lives, in the same time make the food culture of Han strongly influenced the food culture of minorities. This is to be worthy of attention and research for ethnologists.At present, there are many research monographs and books on food culture in China, including the studies on minorities’ food culture for the purpose of seeking novelty. But from the perspective of ethnology, the study specifically aimed at the exchange of distinctive food culture between minorities and the Han is also less. From perspective of cultural exchange and changes in dietary between Western Sichuan minorities and the Han, using the theory and method of ethnology, anthropology, sociology, history, economics and other disciplines, this dissertation study the inter-ethnic food cultural exchanges and changes under the background of modern society. Further, author discusses how to protect and pass on traditional national food culture, and continuously innovate and develop it in the progress of modern society.The structure of the dissertation is divided into six. Introduction introduces mainly the origin of the study, interrelated research productions, the used research theories and research methods, and defines some theoretical concepts in text.The first chapter "Food Cultural Exchanges and Changes of the Main Minorities of Contemporary Western Sichuan" summarizes traditional food culture of Western Sichuan Tibetan, Yi, Qiang, Hui, Mongolian, at the same time, discusses the development and changes in contemporary society, analyses specific items of diet cultural exchange, explains that food culture of Western Sichuan minorities is affected enormously by the concepts and the structure of the modern diet.ChapterⅡ"The Exchange and Amalgamation of Food Culture in Chengdu" chiefly discusses the formation and development of Sichuan cuisines basing on its cradle Chengdu, and food culture characteristics of Chengdu. Further, the writer combine with unique Hakka food culture and Tibetan, Hui and other diet culture in Chengdu, and indicate the amalgamation of food culture of different nationalities, different sub-ethnic groups in Chengdu is the inevitable result of food cultural exchanges.The third chapter "Analysis on Food Cultural Exchanges and Changes of Western Sichuan Nationalities" mostly discusses the social functions of food culture, analyses the diet cultural exchange elements in methods and theories of ethnology, anthropology.ChapterⅣ"The Practical Value of Traditional National Food Culture", which focuses on how to protect and develop traditional national food culture under the background of the rapid development of society and economy in the modern times. Especially, we must develop and protect our traditional food culture combining with innovation, using tourism, film and media industry, book publishing industry, and using the developmental opportunities of non-material cultural heritage.Finally, the conclusion indicates that food cultural exchanges and development of Western Sichuan nationalities is a long historical development process and is an important part of national cultural exchanges and development in Western Sichuan. It can’t be neglected not only it plays an important role for the progress of minorities, is an important contribution to the formation of Sichuan food culture, but also it contributes to the development of Chinese catering culture, it has made an important contribution to the formation of a culture of diversity and unity of the Chinese nation.更多还原