苗侗女性服饰文化比较研究

【作者】 周梦；

【导师】 徐万邦；

【作者基本信息】 中央民族大学 ， 民族学， 2010， 博士

【摘要】 民族服饰是一个民族物质文化与精神文化相结合的产物。它像一面镜子,能够折射出一个民族的历史、文化、经济、宗教、审美、工艺、习俗等,是民族文化的重要组成部分。苗族、侗族女性服饰是中国少数民族服饰百花园中的奇葩,具有丰富的款式、精美的刺绣、耀眼的银饰、高超的技艺及其所蕴含的精神内容。苗族和侗族具有各自的民族传统文化,因而两者的女性服饰具有各自的特征。同时,相似的生产生活方式以及居住地的地缘相近使得两者的女性服饰又存在着一定的相似性。因此,对苗族、侗族女性服饰文化进行比较研究,无论是从民族学的学科视角还是从服饰学专业的角度来看,都具有一定的学术意义。随着信息时代的到来,交通因素、交流因素、生活方式因素等原因使得苗族、侗族女性服饰有着趋同的发展趋向。此外,经济利益的驱动以及生活状态的改变,使得苗族、侗族女性服饰实物的流失现象非常严重,而纺纱、织布、染布、刺绣等一系列技艺面临着失传的危险。因此,对苗族、侗族女性服饰文化的研究也具有一定的现实意义。本文将田野调查研究与文献资料研究方法相结合。笔者的田野调查主要集中在苗族、侗族聚居的贵州省黔东南苗族侗族自治州,通过实地调查得到了大量的一手资料,包括访谈纪录、照片与录像,为本文写作打下了较为坚实的资料基础。同时,对历史文献资料进行梳理,为深入的分析与研究该问题提供了保障。本论文结合民族学与服饰学的相关理论,以文化变迁与文化比较为理论依据,对苗族、侗族女性的服饰实物、穿着者、制作者、穿着习俗、穿着状态等方面进行了细致的梳理。本文主要由以下几个问题组成：一、苗族、侗族女性的服装比较,从主体服饰和辅助服饰两个方面(包括上衣、下衣、头帕、胸兜、花带、围裙、背带、条裙、绑腿等)对苗族、侗族女性服装进行比较；二、苗族、侗族女性首饰与佩饰,将身体各部位所佩戴的首饰和盛装上的银饰两个方面进行比较,分析苗族、侗族首饰与佩饰的实用价值、装饰审美价值与社会价值,同时将二者的头饰、颈饰、胸饰和背饰、手饰以及佩饰进行比较；三、服饰纹样和刺绣图案,将苗族、侗族女性服饰的纹样类型、刺绣技法和刺绣图案的布局、造型、情景两个方面进行比较；四、服饰文化与审美比较,从苗族、侗族女性文化与服饰(包括苗族、侗族女性性格特征比较,苗族、侗族女性的爱美、爱好和爱年轻,苗族、侗族女性恋爱、婚姻、育儿与服饰),苗族、侗族女性服饰的文化意蕴(如神话传说的烙印、图腾崇拜的影响、本民族文化的体现),苗族、侗族女性服饰的作用、风俗、禁忌与穿着习惯,苗族、侗族女性服饰的审美(主要是造型、色彩、风格、意蕴)四个方面进行比较；五、苗族、侗族女性服饰的传承现状,从苗族、侗族女性服饰传承的影响因素(经济因素、文化交流因素、生活方式因素)、传承的现状(包括综述部分和对雷山县西江苗寨的个案分析)以及少数民族传统服饰传承现状与出路三个方面进行论述,并在最后提出了少数民族传统服饰保护、发展和传承的设想。本文的着重探讨了苗族、侗族女性服饰二者的相似性、差异性以及各自的成因,由此进一步探讨以苗族、侗族女性服饰以及中国少数民族服饰文化的保护、传承、研究、发展的问题。更多还原

【Abstract】 National Clothes is a combination of national material and spirit culture, which reflects history, culture, economy, religion, ethic, belief, convention of a nation, is an important part of national culture.Female Clothes of Miao and Dong people, with various styles, elegant embroiders, bright silvers, excellent craft and rich implications, are splendid flowers in Chinese minorities clothes garden. Miao people and Dong people have respective culture, which decide their female clothes have different characteristics. However, the familiar work and life style and same geographic environment bring about certain comparability between Miao and Dong people clothes. It’s fairly significative to study female clothes of Miao and Dong people by comparing method not only from ethnology but also from cosmetic science.The convenient transport, frequent communication and modern life coming with information age lead female clothes of Miao and Dong people going more and more convergence. At the same time, female clothes of Miao and Dong people are running off seriously due to the inducing of economic benefit and the changing of life statues. Crafts of spinning, weaving, dyeing and embroidering are on the verge of being lost. Thus is the social value of this study. Field study and literature study methods are used in this thesis. Field study focuses on Qian Dong Nan, a minority region of Gui Zhou province, where Miao people and Dong people settle. The author get a lot of first-handed information, such as interview record, photos and videos which constitute the practical base of this thesis by field study. At the same time, the analysis of literature documents put the thesis more deeply. This thesis combines theory ethnology and cosmetic science, analyzes female clothes of Miao and Dong people by using culture change and culture compare theory, and discusses following question:1. compare of female clothes of Miao and Dong people; 2. ornaments; 3. design of clothes; 4. aesthetic taste; 5.inheriting status.The emphasis on this thesis is to research the similarity and difference and their origin between female clothes of Miao and Dong people. The ultimate target is to find a way to protect, inherit, study and develop female clothes culture of Miao and Dong people.更多还原