【作者】 朱伟明；

【导师】 许星； 陈雁；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2010， 博士

【摘要】 全球价值链是一个融合宏观和微观两个视角的一种新兴理论,为重新全面审视全球化背景下浙江服装产业集群的产业联系和升级问题提供了新的视角。本文主要从全球价值链视角研究了浙江服装产业集群的博弈与升级问题,对浙江服装产业集群特别是嵊州领带产业集群和桐乡羊毛衫产业集群进行了实地调研,研究了基于全球价值链的浙江服装产业集群动力机制与治理模式,探讨了浙江服装产业集群内部网络和外部网络本身及相互之间的博弈关系,从国家层面、海外买手与浙江服装产业集群、集群内部之间的博弈关系构建了浙江服装产业集群的博弈模型,比较分析了浙江外生型与内生型服装产业集群的升级路径,提出了不同浙江服装产业集群沿着全球价值链进行升级政策思路。本文研究主要包括以下几方面:(1)调查分析了浙江服装产业近三年来的运营状况,重点研究了浙江服装产业集群的现状,特别是嵊州领带产业集群和桐乡羊毛衫产业集群的区位特征、发展演变、产业空间转移、集群内价值链和营销模式等问题。(2)研究了基于全球价值链浙江服装产业集群的动力机制和治理模式。分析了嵊州领带产业价值链与桐乡毛衫产业价值链的动力机制和集群内外各个参与者之间的治理关系,得出浙江服装产业集群主要的动力机制和治理模式及治理方式的演变。(3)研究了浙江服装产业集群内部网络和外部网络的典型博弈,包括国家层面服装产业政策的博弈、集群内外各个利益攸关者之间的博弈和浙江服装集群内企业之间的博弈。重点研究了国家之间服装贸易的博弈、海外买手与浙江服装产业集群之间讨价还价的博弈、浙江服装产业集群内企业之间的博弈和浙江服装产业集群社会责任的博弈,构建了浙江服装产业集群博弈模型,以便从集群内外部的博弈来寻求全球价值链下浙江服装产业集群的升级方向和升级路径。(4)运用全球价值链分析了浙江服装产业集群的升级,特别通过对嵊州领带产业集群和桐乡羊毛衫产业集群的调研,得出内生型与外生型服装产业集群在形成原因、产业结构、价值链的完整性及战略环节、知识学习和流动、抗风险能力等方面具有不同的特征。不同类浙江服装产业集群面临的问题也不完全一致,内生型服装产业集群关键是如何嵌入全球价值链,进行知识学习,提升企业在全球价值链中的附加值,而外生型服装产业集群由于其“两头在外”的特点,关键在于如何摆脱全球价值链的治理者,实现功能性升级。鉴于不同的特点,对于内生型产业集群跨环节的功能性升级比较容易,而在过程升级和产品升级方面比较困难。相反,外生型服装产业集群容易在买手的治理下实现工艺升级和产品升级,主要是因为跨国公司买手或者品牌商对地方产业集群知识传递。而研发和品牌销售属于全球价值链的战略核心环节,买手或品牌商将设立各种壁垒,阻止外向型产业集群进行功能性升级,因此外生型集群实现功能性升级比较困难。因此,对不同类服装产业集群,政府应采取不同的政策措施推动集群升级。(5)基于产业集群理论深入研究了浙江服装产业集群,特别是嵊州领带产业集群和桐乡羊毛衫产业集群,主要研究了集群形成的演化过程,产生和集聚的原因,结合对浙江服装产业集群的访谈和调研,最后提出了全球价值链下浙江服装产业集群的升级路径。嵊州领带产业集群和桐乡羊毛衫产业集群的案例研究为浙江服装产业集群的进一步发展升级提供了思路,为地方政府制订政策提供了理论依据。更多还原

【Abstract】 Global value chain (GVC) is a kind of new theory, which integrates macro-and microeconomic perspectives, and provides a new perspective to analysis again the industrial linkage and upgrading of Zhejiang apparel industrial cluster under the globalization. The framework of apparel upgrading is built by applying GVC in this research. Both textile and clothing trade frictions in country levels and corporate social responsibility in apparel industrial cluster are analyzed by game theory as research tool. The upgrading paths of exogenous apparel industrial cluster as Shengzhou Necktie are compared with endogenous cluster as Tongxiang Woolen Sweater by use of field research and mathematical statistics methods.The following aspects are included in this research:(1) The developing character, forming basis and facing question are investigated by investigating the current situation of Zhejiang clothing industrial cluster. From the aspects of brand number of Chinese clothing, the number of well-known trademarks and clothing brand value, the competitive situation of Zhejiang clothing industrial cluster are analysed. The formation, development and trend of Shengzhou Necktie and Tongxiang Woolen Sweater are used as the study cases.(2) The driving mechanism and governance model are also studied on the basis of GVC theory. By analyzing driving mechanism and governance model of Shengzhou Necktie and Tongxiang Woolen Sweater and governance of Zhejiang clothing industrial cluster, the driving power for both models can be concluded. There are different aspects in upgrading of apparel industrial cluster in GVC. First, apparel industry is typical buyer-driven value chain. In this kind of chain, the buyer, international brand or brand marketer is governor. Secondly, the different governance model of GVC should follow different apparel upgrading path. Thirdly, the upgrading paths of apparel industrial cluster can be divided into Process Upgrading, Product Upgrading, Functional Upgrading and Inter-sectoral Upgrading.(3) The game theory is applied to analyze the outside and inside of Zhejiang clothing industrial cluster. The game relation among countries at the global levels, the game relation between suppliers and buyers, the game relation among enterprises in the clothing industrial cluster are included in this research. This research focuses on the game about country clothing trading policies, Bargain model or offer-counteroffer about governor. The situation of Zhejiang clothing industrial cluster, the game relation among Zhejiang clothing industrial cluster, and the game relation about corporate social responsibility of Zhejiang clothing industrial cluster are fully discussed to explore the upgrading directions and paths of Zhejiang clothing industrial cluster.(4)GVC is applied to analyze upgrading of Zhejiang apparel industrial cluster. The exogenous apparel industrial cluster as Shengzhou Necktie and endogenous cluster as Tongxiang Woolen Sweater are investigates. Their different features are discussed in the terms of causes, industrial structures, the integrities of the value chain and strategic fragments, knowledge learning and mobile, ability to resist risks. It has been found that two different industrial clusters face different challenges. The keys of them are the methods to insert GVC for endogenous apparel industrial cluster, learning by doing, and promoting the additional value along GVC. For exogenous apparel industrial cluster, it is the most important to get out of governor of GVC and realize functional upgrading as result of R&D, design, brand and sales controlled by buyer. Therefore, Functional upgrading is easy to realize, but Process upgrading and Product upgrading are fairly difficult for endogenous apparel industrial cluster. On the contrary, Process upgrading and Product upgrading are easy because of buyer governance to diffuse codified knowledge. The Functional upgrading is difficult for exogenous apparel industrial cluster because core strategy as R&D and brand are limited by buyer. Consequently, government should take different measures for different apparel industrial cluster.(5)According to the theory of industrial cluster, Shengzhou Necktie and Tongxiang Woolen Sweater are applied as the samples of case study of Zhejiang apparel industrial cluster. The evolution of formation and causes of the industry cluster are discussed. On the basis of industrial clusters investigation, the upgrading paths of Zhejiang apparel industrial cluster are suggested combined with the theory of GVC. The theoretical basis of this research can be applied as the references for local government to make out industrial policies and to improve the textile and apparel industries.更多还原