【作者】 李岩；

【导师】 吕文郁；

【作者基本信息】 吉林大学 ， 中国古代史， 2010， 博士

【摘要】 周代的服饰制度是先秦时期社会生活史、民俗史、文化史的重要组成部分,亦是周代社会的特色制度之一。本文主要划分了九章来探讨有关周代服饰制度的问题。第一章是探讨服饰的起源和发展。主要是通过一些出土文物考察原始社会和夏商时期的服饰。总结原始社会时期的服饰,由于考古资料极少,无法对这一时期的服饰进行比较清晰地归纳总结。而到了夏商时期,依据有限的文献记载及考古材料,大致能够对这一时期的服饰面貌有所了解,但此时尚未形成确切的服饰形制和相应的服饰制度。第二、三、四、五、六、七分别为周代的冕服制度、弁服制度、衣裘制度、深衣制度、丧服制度、佩玉制度。在行文过程中,首先简要介绍相关的服饰名物之名称、涵义。在此基础上,结合礼书记载和相关金文资料,重点分析各种服饰制度的等级特点。第八章是金文所见周代的赐服制度。本章主要通过对金文所记赏赐衣饰的全面梳理,结合传世文献分析周代赐服制度的形成。进而透过对周代赐服制度的总体考察,从中挖掘周代服饰制度的特点与作用。第九章是周代服饰制度的变迁。行文中主要从春秋战国服饰色彩和随葬服饰品类的变化,胡服的应用,服饰的地区差异之大,各诸侯国的特色服饰等方面,呈现出服饰制度所反映的礼制,到了春秋战国时期的日渐俗化,等级服饰呈现松弛的态势。更多还原

【Abstract】 Clothing is one part of social material life, the study about clothing of former scholar often emphasis on the research of specific shape of the dress itself, or emphasis on exploration of advances of clothing production technology, as for the discussion of clothing system is a relatively weak aspect. In view of the fact, this article has selected Zhou Dynasty’s ceremonial garments system, valve clothing system, fur clothing system, join bodied clothing system, mourning clothing system, bestows the clothing system, Jade wearing system and so on certain categories, so to study entire Zhou Dynasty’s clothing system.Specifically, the paper will be divided into nine parts to analyze and summarize the characteristics and functions of the Zhou Dynasty Costume System, clearly show the dynamic evolution process of the Zhou Dynasty clothing system.ChapterⅠI discuss the origins and development of clothing. Summary of several academic perspectives on the origin of clothing, and I view that the dress was originally derived from practical, as modesty, decoration and other phrases, at the same time, the clothing in its development process gradually revealed. In addition, through the primitive society and the study of Xia and Shang period dress, in the primitive society of human being clothing has been formed and have an initial development; Apparel clothing in the original basis of Xia and Shang Dynasties has been further developed, and gradually reveals distinguish between levels of functional clothing, but how to express levels of specific differences, the specific regulation and the corresponding clothing system has not yet formed.ChapterⅡI explain the content and features of the Zhou Dynasty’s ceremonial garments system. The establishment of the Zhou feudal system make class Discrimination so increasingly evident bases on Xia and Shang Dynasty that a rich Zhou Dynasty’s ceremonial garments system has been establishment. They specific reflected in the six crown emperor level, different classes of six grade crown, monarch and his feudal officials shared ceremonial garments.ChapterⅢI analyze the formation of Zhou valve clothing system. The valve clothing of Zhou Dynasty already had a detailed classification, and different types of valve clothing have different symbolic meanings and functions. Status and rank of wearer can be determined by the type of valve clothing, indicating the Zhou valve clothing system has been formed and they have specific regulations.ChapterⅣThe formation of the Zhou fur clothing system has been deeply influenced by strictly ritual hierarchy of society. The types of Zhou fur clothing are various, the colors of fur clothing and Xi clothing have to be matched each other, and has formed a certain regulation. Zhou fur clothing cortex and the colors are based on a hierarchy, when the king offering sacrifice to heaven, he wearing large fur made of black lamb fur, black lamb fur clothing was the most expensive one among fur clothing. But the fox-fur robe was the most expensive fur among general fur clothing, which the king wear white fox fur, was the most expensive one, blue fox fur, yellow fox fur for the Dafu and the service persons, and ordinary people are wearing clothes made of the fur of dogs and sheep without Xi clothing.ChapterⅤI explain the characteristic that Zhou Dynasty join-bodied clothing applicable to all classes and the breadth of applications. Although there was a strict hierarchy, the Zhou Dynasty is a ritual of state society, so there are strict restrictions on the shape and constraints.ChapterⅥThe formation and content and features of Zhou dynasty mourning clothing system. The established of Zhou mourning clothing system mainly based on inheritance and change of original mourning clothing custom, along with the development of civil society of the Zhou Dynasty and it begin to form a slightly mandatory code of conduct. Of course, undeniable is that the Zhou Dynasty mourning clothing system has been serious impacted by Zhou Dynasty patriarchal system. The features of Zhou Dynasty mourning clothing system reflects the Zhou Dynasty ritual hierarchy, embodies the Zhou Dynasty social system and political ideology and ethics.ChapterⅦI mainly explained the meaning of the Zhou Jade wearing system. Zhou Dynasty Jade wearing system clearly reflect the wearer’s identity level, and different grades are detailed and strict distinction between regulation, indicating that the Jade wearing system has been formed. rituals of Zhou Jade wearing system, it is an important component of the system, Jade wearing system in the Zhou Dynasty clothing system was given a certain political implications, to be included in the code of the state system of the Zhou Dynasty, it has a significant meaning for the socio-economic, institutional, cultural, clothing evolution.ChapterⅧIn this chapter, I analyze the characteristic and function of Zhou Dynasty clothing system that based on the clothing reward system in bronze inscription. Because of the old age, we have to rely on early literature and archaeological discoveries to study Zhou Dynasty clothing system. The scholars in the course of study, often only concentrated on handed down literature and unearthed jade portrait, but ignoring the underground unearthed of Western and Eastern Zhou bronze inscriptions. In view of this, I specially devoted a chapter of Western and Eastern Zhou bronze inscriptions on clothing. Bronze inscriptions and historical texts will be demonstrate each other, analyze and summarize one of the important content of the Zhou dynasty clothing system,that is the Zhou dynasty clothing reward system. So to uncover the characteristic and function of Zhou dynasty clothing system. Reward clothing was popular in later Western Zhou Dynasty and then form the regulation, in fact it was outstanding performance and important content of Zhou Dynasty clothing system. Zhou Dynasty reward clothing reflected the strict grading standards, it is an evidence of the truth of Zhou dynasty hierarchical clothing in ritual and historical records.ChapterⅨI demonstrate the change of Zhou dynasty clothing system through analyze typical performance and difference and characteristic. Look over the entire clothing history of pre-Qin dynasty, Zhou dynasty clothing system is the most distinctive one. From the early Western Zhou dynasty to the Spring and Autumn period, the Zhou dynasty clothing system is not a static, but has undergone a change in the process. The royal family of Spring and Autumn and Warring States Period being on the decline, years of war, the Western Zhou dynasty ceremonial gradually been abolished, thus the ceremonial clothing system closely integrated with the corresponding has been changed correspondingly. So, in the writing process I specially devote a chapter to examine in detail the change and characteristic of Spring and Autumn and Warring States Period costume custom, characteristics, so as to reflect the change of clothing system from Zhou dynasty to Spring and Autumn and Warring States. The change on colors of clothing and types of burial objects in relation to Western Zhou Dynasty, reflect ceremony on the clothing, Class clothing has been conventionalized during the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Period, it shows a lax trend.For the technique and the method of the research of full text, I take the Marxism classic viewpoint method as the foundation, adopt research methods of combining handed literature, archaeological and cultural anthropological data.To study the Zhou Dynasty clothing system, we can draw a conclusion that clothing and ceremony are inseparable, clothing is a demonstration of social class. This shows that Zhou rite has such a big influence on clothing system, Zhou Dynasty’s clothing has entrusted with the profound social class content, the political function of clothing has been highlighted gradually, at the same time, it lays the foundation of later generation class clothing system. In addition, through the process of change before and after the Zhou Dynasty Apparel Research system, such a understanding can be drawn that after the entry into class society, The change of clothing system was varied along with the Zhou people’s thought idea and social economic foundation and the development of political system.更多还原