【作者】 刘云华；

【导师】 廖军； 缪良云；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 设计艺术学， 2008， 博士

【摘要】 1840年鸦片战争之后,西风东渐,西式服装传入我国,国民也竟尚西装,中国的传统服饰由此受到了前所未有的冲击。为了适应当时的潮流,一些中装裁缝便停做长袍、马褂、对襟衣,专学洋服,业内称谓红帮裁缝。红帮裁缝最初的构成人员主要由来自宁波地区的本帮裁缝转型而来。本文从三个方面分析了宁波本帮裁缝成功转型为红帮裁缝的原因,一是宁波传统成衣业的优势是本帮裁缝得以转型的基础;二是国门打开、西服传入是本帮裁缝转型的契机;三是宁波独特的地方精神是宁波本帮裁缝转型的内在驱动力。宁波本帮裁缝转型为红帮裁缝的过程中,其自身不断发生着质变,他们命运轨迹也离传统本帮裁缝越来越远。本文分别从技术、管理、教育三个领域,阐述了红帮裁缝在中国近现代服装领域的主要活动,从横向剖析出红帮裁缝不同于传统本帮裁缝的现代性特点。在技术领域,红帮裁缝从“四功”,即“刀功”、“手功”、“烫功”、“车功”入手,打破中国传统服装的平面式思维和造型模式,根据中国人的体形特点和审美观念不断将红帮工艺进行改进,以达到西服的艺术审美效果,使之符合红帮口诀中的“九势”、“十六字诀”,从而实现技术向艺术的完美转化。在经济管理领域,红帮裁缝努力打造西服名店,他们一方面利用传统家族式管理的优势,以低成本的资产迅速崛起,另一方面运用西方先进的“品牌”经营理念和现代化的科学管理模式,将红帮西服店的实力、规模、知名度不断扩大。为了促进整个行业的共同发展,增加抵御外界风险的能力,适应当时险恶的政治、经济时局,红帮裁缝建立自己的行业组织——西服业同业公会。西服业同业公会已完全不同于封建行会组织,它冲破了封建行会的封闭与局限,运用科学、规范的管理机制,具有显著地民主、开放的现代社会组织特性,有效发挥了规范行为、提供服务、反应诉求、谋求发展、提升形象等组织与社会功能,保证、促进了整个西服行会的平稳、快速发展。在教育领域,红帮裁缝继承了传统艺徒制的行业人才培养方式,在生产力低下的状况下,传统艺徒制与小规模的家庭手工业相适应,保证了西服业前期发展的人才供给。但随着西服业的不断发展,红帮裁缝意识到传统职业教育方式已不能满足行业发展的需要,于是力倡现代职业教育,逐渐淘汰落后的艺徒制度。上海西服业同业公会于20世纪30年代中期开始创办的近10届西服裁剪补习班,以课堂式的授课方式和灵活、有效的教学方法迅速为西服行业培养了大量熟练掌握西服裁剪技术的高素质人才。1948年业内创办的第一所正规工艺职业学校“上海私立西服业初级工艺职业学校”,首次采取公开招生的方式,其科学的课程设置、制度化的学校管理、做学合一的教学方式等都为现代服装职业教育借鉴和学习的典范。纵观中国社会进入近现代转型期,红帮裁缝以其逐渐形成的群体力量担当起中国近现代服装业的主力军。他们创“海派”西服、中西合璧的服装款式中山装、旗袍,引领中国服饰的转型;他们抢占海内外西服市场,秉志超越,不断拓展,振兴民族服装业;他们以高超的西服制作技术,带领改革开放后中国东南沿海地区服装业迅猛发展,催化了区域服装业的繁荣。红帮裁缝不仅为推动中国服装的历史进程做出过杰出贡献,他们的技术经验、管理模式、教育理念及创业精神仍对现代服装技术的提高、服装企业经营管理模式的创新、服装人才的教育培养方式等具有可贵的借鉴价值和现实意义。更多还原

【Abstract】 After the Opium War (1840—1842), garments in western style were introduced to our country, Chinese people soon accepted the western suits. The traditional dress of China was influenced unprecedently. In order to meet the trend at that time, some traditional Chinese tailors stopped making the gown, clothing of Chinese-style jacket and began learning the western-style clothes on purpose. So people call them Hong Bang tailor, who were firstly made up of the traditional tailors coming from Ningbo area.This paper has analyzed the reasons from three respects that the traditional tailors from Ningbo were succeed in transforming to the Hong Bang tailors. Firstly, it is a foundation that the advantage of the traditional clothe industry of Ningbo;Secondly, the opening China provide the opportunity that the western suits were spread into China; Thirdly, the spirit of Ningbo also help the transition.During the course of transition from the traditional tailors in Ningbo to the Hong Bang tailor, the quality change took place constantly on their own. This paper explains three fields of the Hong Bang tailor separately from technology, management, education in the field of clothes in China late modern time. Thus dissect horizontally out the Hong Bang tailor’s modernity characteristics that were different from the traditional tailors. In the technological field, the Hong Bang tailor break the mode of two-dimention thinking and shaping in the way of four arts that is cutting skill , hand arts , iron skill and machine work. They improve the crafts constantly according to Chinese body characteristic and aesthetic standards in order to reach the aesthetic result of art of the suits, which is accord with the " nine shape", " 16 word pithy formulae "to realize the perfect transformation from technology to art.In the field of economic management, the Hong Bang tailor tried to make the famous shop of suits. On one hand they utilized the advantage of traditional family management to emerge rapidly with low cost, on the other hand using advanced management theory and modernized scientific management mode to help the capability, scale and popularity expand constantly. In order to promote development of the whole trade, increase the ability to resist external risk, and meet the dangerous political and economic current political situation at that time, the Hong Bang tailors set up their own business organization. The trade council of the suit industry had been already totally different from the feudal business organization. It had obviously the modern society organization characteristic of democracy and opening using the scientific and normal management to break through the closing and limitation of the feudal business organization. The modern society organization played a role on standardizing behavior, providing service, reacting the demand, asking for development, shaping the image etc. to promote the fast development of the whole suit institute.In the educational field, the Hong Bang tailor inherit the traditional personnel training way, which was in conformity with the small-scale cottage industry under the state with low productivity to guarantee the supply of talents in the previous development of suit industry. But with the constant development of the suit industry, the Hong Bang tailor realized the way of traditional vocational education can not meet demands of trade development. Then they strive vigorously to advocate modern vocational education and eliminate the backward vocational education system gradually. Shanghai suit industry trade council established cutting class for nearly 10th from 1930s, which had lessons in classroom and used the flexible, effective teaching method to train the high-quality talents in a large amount rapidly who master the cutting technology skillfully. First regular craft vocational school was established in the suits trade in 1948 named " vocational school of elementary craft of private suit industry of Shanghai ", which enrolled openly for the first time. It’s the model of scientific course offered, institutionalized school management, the teaching way linking learning and exercise for the modern clothes vocational education.Reviewing the Chinese transformation period, the Hong Bang tailor take the responsibility to construct the dress industry in China modern times. They create " Shanghai’s style " suits, Chinese and Western clothes style Zhongshan suit, cheongsam to lead the transition of the Chinese dress. They seize the market of suit at home and abroad to promote the national costume industry. They make the rapid development on clothes industry in the southeast of China with the superb suit manufacturing technology after reformation opening to catalyze the prosperity of the regional clothes industry. The Hong Bang tailor not only make remarkable contribution for the historical process which promotes the Chinese clothes industry, but also it has valuable reference value and realistic meaning that their technological experience, management mode, educational idea and enterprising spirit help to improve modern clothes technology, innovate the management mode of the clothes enterprise and chose the way to train the talents of clothes ,etc.更多还原