哈尼族服饰文化中的历史记忆

【作者】 白永芳；

【导师】 邢莉；

【作者基本信息】 中央民族大学 ， 民俗学， 2009， 博士

【摘要】 目前,哈尼族历史研究仅明确其氐羌族源,对迁徙时间、路线未有清晰考证。哈尼人口述史叙述了先民自遥远北方“虎尼虎那”开始,经“什虽湖”、“惹罗普楚”、“诺玛阿美”一路向南,到达洱海边的“色厄作娘”,辗转滇池边的“谷哈密查”,最后退居红河两岸的漫长历史。由于时空跨度大,加之指涉时间、地名、族群名与实际地理、汉文史籍难以对接,其中重要的历史信息不为学者所关注。古歌、家谱以及仪式是哈尼人男性社会记录和保存历史记忆的主要方式。此外,哈尼人的历史记忆还保存在哪里?哈尼族传统民族服饰是哈尼女性创造、使用并传承至今的民俗文化。如何透过服饰的物质层面,解读其文化内涵,进而探索巧妙隐藏其中的历史信息,使民族服饰研究成为民族历史文化研究的重要论据和突破口?论文将本体“服饰”置于主体“人”的生活、文化、历史之中进行民俗整体研究。在大量田野调查的基础上,通过对文化主体日常生活、节日祭祀、人生礼仪中服饰的立体研究,指出具有护佑神性、实现人神沟通的传统服饰核心要素实质是哈尼先民历史的重要承载物。所谓“神性”就是传统性,所谓“神”就是祖先。服饰文化中的历史记忆正是基于这种“神化”的传统和信仰传承至今。论文借助民族口述史、汉文史籍、考古资料及语言分析,通过对哈尼族服饰中“服黑饰红”、“棉纺”、“饰贝”、“饰竹”、“饰鱼”等核心传统要素的多重考证,对哈尼人迁徙口述史中指涉的古代历史时期、地名以及族群互动提出了较为清晰的论述。不仅探讨了哈尼先民的古羌渊源,而且提出了哈尼先民与古蜀、古滇历史的密切关联,并论述了哈尼人进入元江、红河流域的时间。为重建完整、真实的哈尼族历史提供可资参考的时间线索和地理框架;为西南民族历史、藏彝走廊族群研究提供一种哈尼视角。对于无文字边缘族群来说,服饰是一种特殊的女性视角、民间立场的记忆手段。少数民族女性作为“边缘中的边缘”,也拥有书写历史的权利和能力。揭示少数民族女性、民族服饰与历史记忆的深层关系,为研究无文字边缘族群的历史提出新的视角。重视与加强边缘族群研究,尊重其历史书写,打破历史书写的中心主义,我们才有可能重建边缘族群历史,并以此与华夏中心历史互证,还原中华民族真实历史。更多还原

【Abstract】 At present, the study of Hani history only confirms their origins of ancient Di and Qiang, but there is still no specific research on migration time or route. The oral history tells the long migration history of Hani ancestors - they went from the remote Hunihuna in the north, passed Shisui Lake, Reluopuchu, Nuomaamei southwardly one after another, to Se’ezuoniang at the side of Erhai Lake, then moved to Guhamicha beside Dianchi Lake, finally stopped to live by the sides of the Honghe River. But scholars could hardly pay attention to the considerable historical information because of the large span of space and time, and the differences of time and names of the places and ethnic groups between oral history and Chinese historical books.Ancient songs, pedigrees and rites are the main ways of Hani male-dominant society to record and keep social and historical memories. Besides, where else could Hani historical memories be possibly kept? The traditional Hani costumes are the precious treasure created and inherited by Hani female. How to interpret the culture connotation under the costume materials, discover the historical information hidden behind, and make ethnic costume studies important evidence and breakthrough point of ethnic history and culture research?The thesis carries out a way of holistic folk study in putting the costumes as the noumenon into lives, culture and history of human as the subject. Based on abundant fieldwork, through the full-scale study on daily lives, festivals, sacrificing and life rituals, it indicates that the traditional costumes core elements with endowed divinity and communication between human and God are Hani ancestry historical bearers. The so-called divinity is the traditionalism, the God is the ancestors. Rooted in the apotheosized tradition and belief, historical memories hidden in the costumes are passed on till now.This thesis states a relatively clear argumentation on ancient historical time, places and ethnic groups interaction in oral migration history of Hani people in virtue of oral history, Chinese historical books, archeology materials and linguistics knowledge, and according to the core characteristics of Hani costumes which include "black dress and red adornment", adorning shell, adorning bamboo, adorning fish, cotton textile tradition and so on. The thesis not only discusses the origin of ancient Qiang, indicates the close relationship between Hani ancestors and history of Ancient Shu and Dian, but also discusses the time of Hani people entering the drainage area of Yuanjiang River and Honghe River. It provides the reconstruction of complete and true Hani history with important time line and geographical frame, and the study of ethnic groups in southwest and Zang-Yi corridor with a Hani perspective. For those marginal ethnic groups with no characters, costume is a special memorizing method from feminine perspective and folk standpoint. As the margin of margin, ethnic females also have the rights and abilities of history writing. It points out the deep relationship among ethnic females, group costumes and historical memories, and gives a new viewpoint on historical studies of marginal ethnic groups with no characters. Only if the marginal ethnic groups studies were emphasized, their history writing were respected and its centralism was broken, could we possibly reconstruct marginal ethnic groups’ history, inter-confirm with Hua Xia central history, and restore the true Chinese history.更多还原