【作者】 苏诺；

【导师】 郑金生；

【作者基本信息】 中国中医科学院 ， 中医医史文献， 2009， 博士

【摘要】 本文研究的主体是中国古代的保健“茶汤”。“茶汤”一词是本文从古代众多保健饮品术语中遴选出来的,用以代指传统的茶或非茶制成的饮品(以植物性原料为主,不含酒精)。茶只是我国古代众多植物性保健饮品之一。中国古代还存在着许多含茶与不含茶的植物性饮品。在宋代,具有保健治疗作用的“茶汤”曾经盛极一时,成为市民日常生活中不可或缺的内容,以至于形成了“客至则啜茶,去则啜汤”民俗。在古代医药书籍中,记载了大量的具有保健治疗作用的各种名目的植物性饮品。这类饮品名目繁多,形成了不同的类别。例如除“茶”以外,还有“药茶”、“汤”、“熟水”、“渴水”、“饮子”等等。自古到今,民间都流传使用着许多简便有效的保健饮品。这些史料散存于各种文献之中,还缺乏系统的整理与研究。已有的研究之中,对不含茶叶的一类汤、饮,更缺乏深入的发掘整理与研究。此外,我国古代不同时期的保健饮品的发展各有特点,不同类型的保健饮品也有盛有衰、有褒有贬。例如饮茶之风虽然绵延近2000年,但历史上医药名家也曾对过饮茶叶的弊病提出批评。又如宋代社会热中于饮用甘香药材制成的“汤”,此风气并没有在宋以后得到持续发展,反而在元明时期渐次衰落。对古代保健饮品发展史上的若干特殊现象,目前还缺少专门的深入研究。目前社会上各种名目的保健饮品功能已从传统的醒神除腻、健脾开胃、清热解暑等,发展到幼儿营养、减肥美容等许多方面。商家用种种传统的或现代的知识热点,去挑动人们通过饮品轻易实现健康保健的欲望。因此各类以增进健康为目的的饮品,充斥于餐桌、行囊,成为社会兴盛的点缀,丰富生活的必需。温故而知新,在现代保健饮品兴盛的时候,更有必要回顾古代在保健饮品方面曾经积累下来的丰富经验或教训,促使现代保健饮品朝着健康有益的方向发展。所以,从医学史的角度来研究古代植物性保健饮品(本文以“茶汤”为总名)的发展史,具有现实与历史的双重意义。其现实意义在于,整理发掘中医药古代相关文献中保存的极为丰富的健康饮品资料,将为当代保健饮品的种类、剂型、功效等提供许多实际经验,使现代中国的保健饮品更具有中国传统文化特色。其历史意义在于,研究古代“茶汤”的兴衰史,可展示古代保健饮品发展过程中的经验教训,为当今保健饮品的健康发展提供历史借鉴。本文将古代(1840年以前)保健“茶汤”发展情况,按时代为序,从医学史角度进行了研究。具体内容为探讨保健“茶汤”在历史上的起源与发展过程,各种保健“茶汤”种类、功效与制作等相关内容,总结各时代保健“茶汤”发展规律与特点。本文按时代分成六个部分论述,并根据各时期发展的特点拟订了标题:1.先秦的水、酒、浆、茶本章讨论了先秦时期(远古～公元前220年)保健饮品的起源与早期发展。先民为了生存基本需要,最早关注的是“水饮宜忌”。本文列举了先秦时期对饮用水的水源质量的重视、对清洁水源的选择、保护及评价。但关注水饮的避忌,是出于被动的防护。进入春秋战国时期以后,人们开始注意“调水养性”,制作各种原始的保健饮品。本章详细地考证了《周礼》时代由“浆人”负责制作的“六饮”。在前人考证的基础上,逐一分析了“六饮”中每一饮的含义、制作法等内容。指出“六饮”(狭义)乃属于“浆人”制造的六种饮品,无论发酵还是不发酵,其酒精含量都非常低。此时“六饮”还没有掺杂其它植物的叶片或根茎等成分,只是水和谷物为原料制成(发酵或不发酵)。鉴于有人认为先秦时期已经有茶的记载,并有饮茶之先例,本文经过详细的考证,认为茶虽然是我国原产,但先秦文字中没有茶的记载。为此,追踪了所有认为先秦有茶的原始文献,并逐一予以否定,排除了茶“发乎神农”的推测,并指出“神农尝百草,一日遇七十毒,得茶而解之”的引文存在很大的问题。对认为《华阳国志》记载武王时有茶的说法是不正确的。2.汉魏六朝的茶饮与非茶之饮本章讨论了汉(公元前206～220年)魏(220～265)、六朝(222～581)将近800年间有关茶的明文记载。从马王堆西汉墓出土的文物有“槚”的异体字,西汉初司马相如《凡将篇》记载药物“荈诧”(茶的异名),西汉王褒《僮约》两处提到了“茶”字,以及“茶陵”地名、东汉许慎《说文解字》提到“茗”字等,说明汉代已有茶及茶饮的文献记载。三国两晋时朝,茶的记载大大增多,至南北朝时,茶的饮用已经渐趋广泛。。本章逐一分析了这一时期与茶的形态、功效、产地、制作法与饮用法等各种有关的文献(如史志、本草、诗赋等)记载,认为唐·杨晔《膳夫经》(856年)将饮茶之俗推到“晋、宋”是有一定历史依据的。本章进一步分析了植物性饮品的起源并非只有茶惟一的一个途径,还有多种早期的植物性饮品。为此考证了本草及相关文献中的“茶之别”的种类。3.唐及五代茶饮之盛与代茶品唐代是植物性饮品发展最为重要的时期。其间茶饮逐渐发展形成了一个高峰。本章首先分析了《唐本草》中首次记载的“茗、苦[木荼]”的内容,以及该书记载对此后本草及《茶经》形成的影响。又专门探讨了唐·陆羽《茶经》的形成、内容与特色。指出《茶经》中显现出饮茶保健向品茶寻趣发展的趋势。进而分析了茶在唐中期陡然兴盛与禅教兴盛的关系,认为这确实是唐代茶兴盛的风源。此后又研究了唐代出现的代茶方、冷饮等多种代茶的饮子组成、代茶的不同植物性原料等。4.宋代保健茶、汤的兴盛宋代饮食文化非常发达,保健茶、汤是其重要的组成部分。在继承唐代饮茶成风的传统之外,宋代又更多地将茶用于医疗。同时各种保健“汤”开始大兴于世,成为这一时期饮品发展最有特色的内容。本章首先分析了宋代的品茶与“斗茶”,认为这些属于茶的畸形发展,与本文讨论的植物性保健饮品无大关系。进而讨论了这一时期的“药茶”与以茶入药的情况。本章的重点是分析“汤”与“熟水”,归纳了“汤”的特点是10个字:“甘香药成屑,甘草共点汤”。然后仔细考证了当时多种保健“汤”的名目、组成与保健作用。又探讨了“熟水”的缘起、内含物、制作方法,并详细分析了宋代保健汤的方剂的数量、名目、药物组成、各药出现的频率、主治特点等,可以比较全面地反映这一时期保健汤的内容。5.元明时期茶、汤的演进与反思元明时期社会风气与宋代有很大的不同,饮品好用香药的风气渐次转变。本章首先根据元代对保健饮品的最初分类,探讨了各类保健饮品的名目含义。进而指出蒙古族及“回回”饮食习惯对保健茶汤的最明显的影响是以酥入饮。随后又对在明代发展比较大的叶茶、花茶及“茶之别”进行了探讨,其中还讨论了点茶所用的“茶果”、“茶菜”等。本章重点列举了元明时期“诸汤”的变异,以及元代医家对宋代好用香药入汤的反思与批评。随后又考察了“熟水”制法及名目,并辨析了“渴水”、“舍利别”与“煎”之间的关系和区别,分析“浆水”的含义与以浆为名的保健饮品,提出了一些不同于一般文献记载的见解。6.清代茶叶变革与新饮品清代的茶业及传统茶学逐渐衰落,但社会仍然嗜好茶汤,只是对茶的弊病认识得更为深刻,品茶的风尚也不同于前代。清代茶饮最大的变化,是由单一的绿茶改变为红茶、乌龙茶与普洱茶等并存的局面。本章探讨了红茶、乌龙茶与普洱茶发展的历史与特点,分析了它们各自的保健作用。清代民间代茶饮品蓬勃发展。所以本章中详细列举了数十种新的代茶保健饮品,介绍其产地、特点与不同的作用等。又设专节讨论了“药露”在清代的发展,其中列举了20多种药露的名目、制作法与保健功能。以上分阶段研究了古代的保健“茶汤”,最后的结论是:①先秦时期。先民们最早关注的是水质安全,寻求并保护味正洁净的饮用水源,被动地防护不良水饮对人体的伤害。春秋战国时期人们开始主动“调水养性”。其时最简单的保健饮品为由“浆人”负责制作的“六饮”,即将水与谷物制作(发酵或不发酵)成的不同名目的饮品,用于解渴与养生②汉魏六朝:现有秦汉以前的文献并无茶饮记载。西汉初才出现药用“荈诧”(茶),西汉后期茶叶由药入饮。三国、两晋时逐渐认识到茶的“醒酒,令人不眠”功效,及其形态、产地、烹茶法(茶羹或粥)等。六朝末期,茶成为祭祀、待客的饮品。与此同时出现了多种非茶植物性饮品。③唐及五代:《唐本草》(659)首次将茶立条。唐代中期禅教兴盛与传播导致茶需求旺盛,全国饮茶成风。陆羽首撰《茶经》,促使饮茶保健向品茶寻趣发展,茶道大行,促进了茶马交易。与此同时出现了代茶饮品、解暑冷饮等。人们更关注寻找类茶物(“茶之别”)与代茶品。④宋代:受社会好香药的影响,宋代以香入茶、以茶入药、茶药混用现象严重。用甘香药材做成的“汤”,用于日常保健及待客,已形成习俗。宋代保健饮品盛行,分化成茶、汤两大系列。保健“汤”系列还包括“熟水”等类型的饮品。⑤元明:元蒙时期的保健饮品受到北方游牧民族饮食习惯的影响,以酥入茶,保健汤品也由咸变甜、制作原料则由香药转向花、果等。保健“茶汤”开始被分成诸品茶、诸品汤、渴水、熟水、浆水五大类型。明代叶茶兴起,花茶、茶果、茶菜有所发展。宋代好用香药入保健“茶汤”的风气受到批评并逐渐平息。⑥清代:清代兴起的性温的红茶(发酵),乌龙茶、普洱茶(半发酵)弥补了绿茶的不足。各种代茶新品蜂起,茶菊在浙江兴起。人参叶茶、苦丁茶等代茶品在民间也有一定的市场。花、果、地衣、神曲类制品等都被制成新的保健饮品。西洋医药传入导致各种蒸馏制成的药露成为点茶用的新品。以上研究证明,中国古代保健“茶汤”是中华民族饮食文化的重要组成部分。古代植物性保健饮品种类繁多,功能多样、适应范围广泛,在其发展过程中积累了极为丰富的经验与教训,值得深入研究与发掘。本文选择了中国传统饮食疗法中比较薄弱的“饮”,又进而选择了保健饮品中相当薄弱的保健“茶汤”进行探讨,开拓了古代非茶保健汤品或代茶品的研究,首次对古代保健“茶汤”的种类与运用经验进行清点与总结,并有若干新发现,提出了一些新观点。例如从众多的医药与非医药史料中,收集整理出了70多种古代的代茶品,逐一考订它们的首出的时代与功用;搜罗汇集了宋、元、明200多首保健汤方,尤其是对宋代70多首保健汤,详细分析其组成与功效特点;研究了古代保健“茶汤”各个分支类别形成的历史与实际内容,对“药茶”、“汤”、“饮子”、“熟水”、“渴水”、“舍利别”、“煎”、“浆水”、“药露”等分类名逐一进行了辨析,明确了各名目的内涵与制作法。本文在研究中既注意广泛收集史料,同时也注意史论结合,对不同时代保健“茶汤”发展特点进行归纳与评述,总结历史经验。通过研究,本文认为茶叶只是古代诸多植物性保健饮品的佼佼者,但它无法代替其他植物性保健饮品。今后的研究应该对非茶保健饮品给予关注。历史上保健饮品兴衰史给后人以深刻的启迪。其中宋代好用香药并以药入饮,给后人的教训最为深刻。任何一种具有偏性的保健饮品都必需因人制宜、辨证使用。过饮、久饮单一有偏性的保健饮品,都有可能“将求无病,适足生病。将求取乐,反成受苦”。本文对古代极为丰富的保健“茶汤”史料进行了初步的整理发掘,展示了古代保健“茶汤”的众多种类、制作法与运用经验,以及与此相关的中华文化特色,也可以为当代制作更具有中国传统的保健饮品提供参考。从医学史角度研究古代的保健“茶汤”兴衰史,也可为当今保健饮品的健康发展提供历史的借鉴。更多还原

【Abstract】 The subject of this article is Chinese ancient tea and soup for health care, which is selected from large quantities of ancient healthy drinks, meaning traditional tea or non-tea drinks (soft drinks).The tea is only one of our many ancient healthy drinks, including those fruit drinks containing tea or not. In Song dynasty, the tea and soup with efficacy of improving health and treatment became a fashion in a period, making it a necessary part of citizen’s daily life, and a custom of "coming visitors drinking tea while leaving drinking soup" appeared. Ancient medical books recorded large numbers of kinds of plant drinks with health and treatment, which are classified into different kinds. For example, there are "medical soup", "soup", "boiled water", "thirsty water" and "induced water" besides "tea". Many simple and effective healthy drinks are popular among the folks since the ancient times. These historical materials scattered in all kinds of literatures, lacking systemic accumulation or study while existing studies lack deeper digging accumulation or study. Famous doctors in the history once criticized the disadvantages of drinking tea although it has lasted till today. The custom of drinking tea which was popular in Song dynasty gradually eclipsed instead of continuing developed. The special phenomenon in the developing history of ancient healthy drinks lacks special deep research.Currently, all kinds of healthy drinks in society have developed from traditional efficacy of awakening, stimulating the appetite, and driving away the hotness to infant nutrition, weight loss, cosmetology and many other aspects. Businessmen take advantage of kinds of traditional or modern knowledge hotspots to provoke people’s desire of acquiring health through drinks. Therefore, all kinds of drinks aimed at improving health are abundant at tables and packages, becoming a decoration of social thriving and a necessity for enriching the life. Right now, there has been nobody checking how much ancient beneficial experience being succeeded and paid attention by nowadays’ drink industries.As a result, researches on developing history of ancient plant healthy drinks from medical history angle have double meanings of reality and history. The reality meaning lies on accumulating and digging the abundant materials of healthy drinks saved among related ancient TCM literatures. The history meaning lies on showing the experiences and lessons during ancient healthy drinks’ development through studies on ancient "tea and soup" thriving and declining history, supplying historic references for current development of healthy drinks.We studied healthy "tea and soup" before 1840 from medical history angle in order of times. The specific contents is to discuss the origin and development of healthy "tea and soup", and their kinds, efficacy, production and other related contents, summing up developing rules and characters of "tea and soup" at every period.We divided the body into 6 parts (Pre-Qin, Han, Wei and Six dynasties, Tang and Five dynasties, Song, Yuan and Ming, Qing), emphasizing on discussing characters of healthy "tea and soup" at every times. The research result is as follows:①Water, wine, serofluid and tea in Pre-Qin: Ancestors most cared about the safety of the water quality, seeking and protecting clean water source with the right taste, so as to passively prohibit the body harm from the water of bad quality. People in the Spring and Autumn Period initiatively accommodated water to nourish their dispositions. The easiest healthy drink at that time is to produce different kinds of drinks with water and cereals (ferment or not), helping satisfy one’s thirsty and preserve one’s life.②The origin of tea and soup and non-tea drinks in Han, Wei and Six dynasties: Tea for medical use appeared at the beginning of the West Han, while the tea became a kind of drink rather than a medicine in late West Han. The effect of wakening from drunk and keeping awake, the shape, producing area, the way to boil the tea (tea or porridge)are gradually be known at the time of Three Kingdoms. At late Six Dynasties, the tea became a drink for fete or entertaining guests. Meanwhile, many kinds of plant drinks besides tea appeared.③Prosperous tea times of Tang and Five Dynasties and tea substitutes:《Herbs of Tang periods》(695) first concluded tea as an item. Buddhist flourish and spread in mid Tang made it possible for a need bloom of tea while drinking tea became popular around the country.《The tea history》which was written by Luyu, helped an improvement from drinking tea for health to for pleasure. The tea was so popular that helped exchanges for horses with tea. At the same time, there were tea substitutes and cold drinks for hot weather. People cared more and sought for drinks which were similar to tea and tea substitutes.④Tea and soup flourish in Song: There was a serious phenomenon of drinking tea with flavor, adding tea into a medicine and a mix of tea and medicine in Song. Making soup with fragrant herbs for daily self health care and entertaining guests became a custom. Healthy drinks were divided into tea and soup which included "boiled water" and other drinks.⑤The development and reflection of tea and soup in Yuan and Ming: Healthy drinks in Yuan and Meng period were influenced by the eating habit of northern nomads when butter was added into tea, which became sweeter with the flower and fruit as raw materials rather than salty with flavors. Healthy "tea and soup" was divided into five kinds, such as tea, soup, thirsty water, boiled water and serofluid. Leaf tea became popular in Ming dynasty, while flower tea, tea fruit and food for tea developed. Flavors adding into healthy tea in Song was criticized and gradually disappeared.⑥Revolution of tea and new drinks in Qing dynasty: Warm black tea (ferment), oolong and pu er cha (half ferment) made up for green tea’s disadvantages. All kinds of tea substitutes appeared, for example, Chrysanthemum tea appeared in Zhejiang province while Ginseng leaf tea and Kuding tea gained marked among the folks. Flower, fruit, lichen, Shenqu and other products were made into new healthy drinks. Introduction of western medicine helped dew medicine became new tea products.Researches above proved the fact that Chinese ancient healthy "tea and soup" was an important part of Chinese food culture. There were many kinds of plant drinks for health with multiple functions and abroad adaptations, accumulating rich experiences and lessons during its development which worth researches and digging.We chose the weaker part of traditional Chinese dietotherapy-drinks, and the weaker part of healthy drinks-tea and soup to explore, making it a beginning of researches on ancient healthy non-tea soup and tea substitutes. We first checked and summed up the kinds and experiences of "tea and soup", bringing new findings and opinions. For example, we gathered more than 70 ancient tea substitutes in large account of medical and non-medical historical materials, textual researched each first-appeared period and usage; we sought and gathered more than 200 healthy soups in Song, Yuan and Ming dynasty, especially analyzed those more than 70 soups of Song in details including constitutes and characters of their efficacies; we studied histories of formation of the branches and the contents, making a differentiation of "medical soup", "soup", "drinks", "boiled water", "thirsty water", "SheLibie", "decocting", "serofluid", "dew medicine" and other blanches, while clearing their meanings and factures.We noticed not only abroad gathered history material, but also the combination of history. We concluded and commented the development characters of "tea and soup" in different periods, summing up historic experiences. Through studies, we considered tea as the outstanding one of ancient plant drinks for health while it could not substitute other ones. Researches from now on should care more about non-tea drinks for health when their history inspired us impressively, among which the most impressive one is adding medicine and using flavor in drinks in Song dynasty. Any healthy drinks with a single attribute have to be distributed to the appropriate person and be used according to differentiation. Drinking some with a single attribute too much or for a long time may be bad to the body.We preliminarily accumulated the history materials of "tea and soup" in ancient times, providing references for more characteristic of traditional Chinese production and usage of current healthy drinks. Study on thriving and declining history of ancient healthy "tea and soup" in medical history may provide references for healthy development of current healthy drinks.更多还原