【作者】 徐继红；

【导师】 张文斌；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2008， 博士

【摘要】 人体和服装之间的关系较为复杂和模糊,但其是服装合体性、三维虚拟和防火服安全性的基础研究。本论文主要从工程设计角度根据服装的合体性、舒适性研究面料力学性能与服装空间松量的配伍关系,为虚拟服装着装廓体外观效果的客观评价确定理论基础。具体的研究工作与思路概括如下:(1)人体与服装廓体松量的数学算法的建立分析了使用[TC]~2扫描仪作为实验手段,获取各种截面的点云数据或曲线数据的几何算法,以及利用人体表面数据点的重新采样方法。采用重新采样法(等角法)获取所需特征截面的坐标点,并读取这些点的坐标值。利用最小二乘法和三次多项式分段拟合不同部位截面的曲线,建立人体与服装间法线距离和射线距离的算法模型。通过计算人体截面任意角度人体与服装间的法线距离和射线距离,讨论了人体与服装松量用法线距离指标比射线距离指标更合理,从而确定法线距离为人体与服装之间的距离松量。同时根据弧长等分建立面积的算法模型,用VB语言编写程序,以读取人体任意角度的距离松量和面积松量,并将人体与服装之间的距离松量和面积松量定义为服装廓体松量。根据服装平面制图的关键部位规格确定截取人体与服装的特征截面,胸围线以上的截面:肩宽、胸宽和背宽截面;胸围线以下的截面:胸围、腰围和臀围截面。分析研究得到胸围线以上截面人体与服装之间的距离松量较小,受服装放松量的影响不大,研究这些截面没法找寻影响服装廓体松量的主要因素。而胸围线以下的截面受服装放松量的影响很大,从而将其作为特征截面进行研究,分析影响服装廓体松量的主要因素。计算与分析特征截面人体不同角度的距离松量,总结了人体与同一款式不同放松量服装之间距离松量的分怖关系,表明距离松量不是随服装放松量均匀变化的,而是有一定的变化规律,并根据特定角度拟合了距离松量与放松量之间变化规律的曲线方程。距离松量在不同的特征截面其变化规律不同,在胸围截面:距离松量在人体的后背处θ=120°～135°较小,在人体的胸高点处θ=240°最小,人体后面的距离松量基本大于前面的量,距离松量主要集中在θ=150°～210°之间。由于胳膊的原因,形成了波幅分别处于θ=165°和θ=195°,波谷处于θ=180°的波形图形;在腰围截面:距离松量不是均匀分布的,人体侧面部位即θ=165°～210°的量最大。在臀围截面:距离松量在后中心处θ=90°、人体的侧面θ=150°～195°以及前中心处θ=270°的量较少,在人体前面距离松量大于后面的量,且最大量集中在实验服前、后片公主线处,形成以公主线位置为波幅的波浪形状。计算与分析特征截面人体与不同放松量服装间面积松量,其变化规律与距离松量相同,但更能表述细节的变化:对于胸围截面,侧面面积松量与服装胸围放松量存在线性关系;对于腰围截面,前、后面积松量总和以及侧面面积松量分别与服装腰围放松量存在一元二次回归关系,并可以将侧面面积松量占总面积松量70%的比例作为评价服装廓体外观效果很好的面积指标;对于臀围截面,面积松量主要集中在人体前面。(2)影响服装廓体松量的主要相关因素的确定测试31种面料的17种物理力学性能,采用聚类方法将其分为6类,从6类中分别挑选1种作为样衣的面料;在10件实验服的平面纸样中选择6个作为样衣样版,分别用选定的6种面料制作36件样衣。对36件样衣进行三维扫描,获取人台和样衣的点云数据,计算特征截面计算廓体松量,分析廓体松量由于面料物理力学性能不同和规格不同所导致的分怖规律变化。采用逐步回归得出影响不同截面、不同角度距离松量和面积松量的最主要因素。胸截面各角度的距离松量受面料力学性能影响不大,在165°和195°波幅处是随着△B而呈线性变化,△B越大,距离松量越大。由于胸部和肩胛骨的隆起,人体前面和后面部分在胸截面与服装的面积松量相对是固定不变的,不受△B和面料物理力学性能的影响。影响人体侧面部分面积松量的主要因素为△B、1gw以及lg2HB,其中影响因素最大的是△B。腰截面各角度距离松量受△B和△W影响较大,而受面料物理力学性能影响较小。影响人体后面和侧面部分面积松量的最主要因素是△W,而影响人体前面部分面积松量的最主要因素是△W和lg2HG5。臀截面90°～120°的距离松量主要受2HG和F的影响,225°～270°主要受lg2HB的影响。影响人体后面部分面积松量最主要因素是2HG,影响人体侧面部分的最主要因素是△H和1gw,影响人体前面部分的最主要因素是面料的△H、2HG和F。胸部、腰部前分割线处于人体角度变化不大,臀部位置的角度变化也是有规律的,臀部前分割线角度和G、2HG及1gw相关性较为显著,而与其他性能无相关性,特别是与△B、△W、△H无关。通过逐步回归影响臀部前分割线的最主要因素是1gw(面料重量)。(3)服装着装廓体外观效果的客观评价与预测模型的提出通过Friedman检验7名专家对服装着装廓体外观效果的主观评价具有一致性;设定腰围侧面面积占据总面积比例区间对服装进行客观外观效果评价,通过Spearman秩位相关系数检验法得出主观评价与客观评价的一致性,即将腰围侧面面积占总腰围面积比例区间作为检验服装着装廓体外观效果的客观指标是可行的。对同规格、同面料的服装着装客观效果值与其相对应标准值的差值进行分析,服装放松量是影响服装着装廓体外观效果的主要因素,当服装的放松量达到一定程度时,面料力学性能对服装外观效果影响较小,只要根据具有很好外观效果样版制作的样衣,不会因为面料力学性能不同而对服装外观效果有很大的改变。然而,服装放松量越小,则面料力学性能对服装外观效果的影响越大,若要取得较好的外观效果则需要选择2HG较小的面料。同时因为服装放松量小,服装与人体之间的空隙小,则需要根据人体形状对样衣进行补正,从而修改样版,使得具有不同力学性能的服装都具有很好的着装外观效果。建立了着装廓体外观客观效果值的多元回归模型和BP神经网络模型,通过预测检验,神经网络预测的值比多元回归预测的值与实测值更接近,说明神经网络预测模型比多元回归预测模型更精确。根据OpenGL软件曲面显示的原理将点数据显示为曲面形状,从而显示人台和服装三维虚拟着装廓体外观图像,由于面料力学性能不一致,所以着装廓体外观效果有很大的区别。构建了可视化的虚拟着装廓体外观效果预测系统,可以根据已知的面料物理力学性能、成品规格对服装着装廓体的外观效果进行评判,得到相应服装着装廓体外观效果的信息:①、着装廓体外观效果值;②、着装廓体外观效果评判结果以及样衣试穿、样版修改的必要性判别;③、最接近的三维虚拟着装廓体外观效果图。通过检验样衣对系统进行了检验,证实了预测系统具有一定的可靠性。更多还原

【Abstract】 Although the relation between human body and garment is complex and vague,it is the basic study of garment fitting,three-dimensional virtual and fireproof garment security.This paper confirmed the basis of the theory of an objective evaluation for the virtual garment profile appearance from the engineering point of view based on the garment fitting,comfort and study of the combined relationship between material mechanical properties and garment ease capacity.The main works and approach in the study can be outlined as following.(1) Establishing mathematical algorithms of the ease between the body and the garmentDot cloud data of variety of sections or geometry algorithm of curve data was captured by using [TC]~2 scanner and body surface data points re-sampling methods.This paper obtained the coordinates of required characteristic section by use of re-sampling method(Conformal method), then established algorithm models of distance between body and garment both in normal and radial directions by using least squares and cubic polynomial approximation to fit curves of different sections,and confirmed the normal distance as the distance between human body and garment.Meanwhile,in accordance with the even arc-length the algorithm model of area ease was built.This paper used VB programming language to get distance ease and area ease with any angle, and defined these distance ease and area ease between body and garment as the garment profile ease.By calculating the normal and radial distance between body and garment at any random body sections angle,this paper found that the normal distance was more reasonable for body and garment ease than the radial distance.This was mainly because normal distance was the shortest from body to garment and it is the normal offset value in 3D virtual garment..According to the important part spec of garment plane cartography,characteristic sections of human body and garment were obtained,and sections above bust line were:shoulder width,bust width and back width section,sections under bust line were bust-full,waist-full and hip-full section.Analysis showed that distance between sections above bust line and garment was much shorter and less affected by garment ease,and research on these sections rarely helped to look for the main factors affecting the garment profile ease.On the contrary,sections under bust line were influenced by garment ease,and this paper studied these sections and analyzed main factors affecting the garment profile ease.This paper calculated and analyzed the distance ease of characteristic sections with different body angles,summed up the distance ease distribution relation between body and variety clothing sizes within the same garment style.The study showed that change of distance ease had certain change rules rather than evenly following the garment ease change,curve equation of change rules between distance ease and garment ease was been fitted according to certain angle.Distance ease in different sections had different change rules,for bust-full section,distance ease were smaller in back whenθwas from 120°to 135°,and the smallest in bust point whenθwas 240°.Distance ease in the back was bigger than in the front basically,and the most of the distance ease existed whenθwas between 150°to 210°.Because of arms,wave figure had amplitude whenθwas 165°or 195°,trough whenθwas 135°.As for waist-full section,distance ease distributed unevenly and got the biggest in the side whenθwas from 165°to 210°.In hip-full section, distance ease was much smaller in back whenθwas 90°and in the side whenθwas from 150°to 195°.In the front center whenθwas 270°,the distance ease was bigger than in back and besides. The most of the distance ease was in the princess line and formed a wave figure which had amplitude of the princess line position.By calculating and analyzing the area ease between body and garment with different clothing size,we found its change rule was similar with the distance ease,but was more useful for showing the details’ change.For bust-full section,there was linear relation between area ease in the side and garment ease,and for waist-full section,there was quadratic equation between clothing sizes and area ease in the side,and summation area ease including the front and back.Besides,the proportion of area ease in the side took 70%of the total area ease could be used as area evaluation of garment-profile appearance.As for hip-full section,area ease was mainly in the front.(2) Ascertaining the main correlation factors which affect the garment-profile easeSeventeen mechanical properties of 31 different material had been tested,these material were classified as 6 species by using Cluster analysis,and one fabric of each species was selected as the sample coat fabric.Six patterns were selected as the sample jackets patterns from ten experimental patterns,so 36 jackets were made using the 6 selected material.By scanning these 36 sample jackets,we got the dot cloud data of model and sample jackets,obtained characteristic section, calculated garment-profile ease,analyzed the change of garment-profile ease distribution rule caused by different material mechanical properties and specs.The primary factors which affected different sections,distance ease and area ease in different angles were obtained by using step-by-step regression.Distance ease in bust section with different angle was almost not affected by material mechanical properties,whenθwas between 165°and 195°,distance ease was in a linear change along with the change of△B,the bigger△B was,the bigger distance ease was.Bust section area ease were comparatively invariable in the front and back of human body due to the chest and scapular bone,and it also did not affected by△B and material mechanical properties.△B,lgw and lg2HB were main factors which affected the area ease in the side of body..Distance ease in waist section within different angle was significantly affected by△B and△W,little affected by material mechanical properties.△W was the main factor which affected the area ease in the back and side of human body while△W and lg2HB5 were the main factors witch affected the area ease in the front of human body.Distance ease in hip section was significantly affected by 2HG and F whenθwas between 90°and 120°,and affected by lg2HB whenθwas between 225°and 270°.2HG was the main factor to affect the area ease in the back of human body;△H and lgw were the main factors to affect the area ease in the side of human body and△H,2HG and F were to the front.The angles in front bust and waist partition lines changed slightly while angles in hip had an orderly change.The partition lines in front of hip had significant correlation with G,2HG and lgw, and no correlation with other factors especially with△B,△W and△H.The primary factor to affect partition lines in front of hip was established as lgw(fabric weight) by using step-by-step regression.(3) Establishing the objective evaluation method for the virtual garment-profile appearance and prediction systemThrough Friedman,we found that the subjective evaluation of 7 experts to the jackets profile appearance were accordant.We made an objective evaluation to jackets according to set proportion of side waist area and total waist area,and we found the consistency between subjective evaluation and objective evaluation though Spearman rank correlation coefficient test method.Thus,we confirmed that it was feasible to take the proportion of side waist area and total waist area as an objective evaluation of testing wearing garment profile appearance. By analyzing objective effect of jackets in the same specs and made of the same material,we found garment ease is the main factor affecting the wearing garment profile appearance.When the ease get a certain degree,material mechanical properties had little effect to the wearing garment profile appearance,and it would not affect the wearing garment profile appearance.However, material mechanical properties affected garment appearance increasingly when the garment ease was getting smaller.Fabric having smaller 2HG obtained a better appearance.Meanwhile,smaller ease brought smaller space between garment and body,so we adjusted sample jackets according to body figure and reformed patterns to make jackets with different mechanical properties have a good wearing appearance.This paper established multiple regression model and BP neural network model about the objective evaluation of garment profile appearance.From the predictive test,we found that neural network predicted values were much closer to the measured values than the multiple regression predicted values.This showed that that neural network prediction model is more precise than the multiple regression prediction models.According to the OpenGL software surface display theory,dot data was been showed as the shape of the surface,so pictures of manikin and the virtual three-dimensional jackets profile appearance had been saw,but with different fabric mechanical properties,the jackets profile appearance appeared differently.We had constructed a visualization predict system of virtual garment wearing profile appearance,and this system can judge garment wearing profile appearance based on the known fabric mechanical properties and garment specs.That system could also collect information about the certain garment wearing profile appearance:①the garment wearing profile appearance value.②judgment of garment wearing profile appearance,sample garment try-on and judgment of pattern reform necessity.③pictures which was mostly close to the three-dimensional virtual garment profile appearance.The reliability of this predicting system was been proved through testing jacket.更多还原