饭店与上海城市生活（1843-1949）

【作者】 唐艳香；

【导师】 熊月之；

【作者基本信息】 复旦大学 ， 专门史， 2008， 博士

【摘要】 本文力图突破饮食文化的视野,将饭店放在上海城市发展的脉络里,研究其与上海城市社会发展、城市空间拓展、城市功能分区、城市生活的关系。通过饭店来考察上海城市的发展、探讨上海城市生活的演变。不仅考察饭店本身,重点在通过饭店考察上海社会。不仅分析饭店中的饮食,更要考察饭店这一社会空间。不仅要找出上海城市的特殊性,而且也希望从饭店与上海城市的关系来看整个中国城市发展,研究饮食与城市发展的关系。文中所说的饭店既包括平民阶层进餐的小饭店,也包括在近代上海被称为菜馆酒楼的中上层社会光顾的餐馆,还包括西餐馆,相当于英文中的“restaurant”。至于近代传入上海的旅馆型饭店(Hotel),对其饮食部分也有所述及,但不作为重点。从时间上来说,选取1843年上海开埠到1949年上海解放这段时间。前人对饭店的研究多是侧重饮食的角度,对各个饭店进行介绍、考察各帮菜馆的兴衰、分析饮食与上海社会的关系。对西餐来说,对其传入、流行过程、掌故、个别著名西餐馆的描述很多,从社会转型、饮食习俗的转变、卫生管理制度的引入等方面也有研究。也有人从社会空间角度考察饭店,认为饭店具有资讯交流、扩展人际关系、社群聚会、界定社群、仲裁谈判、自我夸饰、消遣娱乐、抒发生活压力的作用。基于以上研究状况,本文作了如下探索:考察了中餐馆这一行业的整体发展情况,分析了饭店的分布与城市空间演变的关系,将饭店作为一个空间考察,不仅强调了其功能的多样化,而且分析了其功能的变化,以及其反映的上海城市生活的演变。资料主要来源于档案、报刊杂志、指南类书籍、行名录、日记、小说等。近代上海汇集了中国各地域饮食。文中对中餐的各帮菜馆进行了时空考察。从时间上来说,考察整个菜馆行业随上海城市经济发展而繁荣的历史过程,述及战争对菜馆经营的影响,分析人口的汇集造成了饮食的多样性。从空间上来说,分析菜馆分布随上海城市空间的拓展而扩大,从县城到租界,从南向北,从东向西扩展,但是始终集中于主要商业区。对各帮菜馆来说,考察其在上海发展的历程,探索其盛衰的不同原因。西餐作为异域饮食,随着上海的开埠而传入。西餐从最初华人“间亦往食”,到贵游子弟“喜食英法大菜”,到后来裙屐少年、巨商大贾,“往往携姬契眷,异味争尝”。到了19世纪末已经被上海社会认同,并且成为饮食时尚。民国以后,西餐更加流行,并且成为写字间阶级的日常饮食。20世纪30年代后,随着大批俄侨来沪,聚集于霞飞路,开设廉价俄式西餐馆,西餐更加普及。西餐在上海的流行,主要是因为西餐的改良,另外西餐的清洁、礼仪的简单也是重要原因。西餐馆最初开设在中外贸易发达的洋泾浜周围,后来华人开办的西餐馆一直以福州路为最多。西方人开设的旅馆兼营西餐,这些旅馆多分布在沿黄浦江一带。俄国人开设的俄式西餐馆则集中在俄国人聚居的霞飞路周围,而华界的县城则几乎没有西餐馆。总之,华人开设的西餐馆集中在租界的主要商业区,西方人经营的西餐馆在中外贸易集中区和西方人聚集区。西餐的中国化、中餐效仿分餐制度且重视营养、华人开办的西餐馆中引进西方物质文明的成果,保留中国宴饮习俗,这些都体现了中西文化的交流与互动。饭店作为一个社会空间,它在上海城市生活中具有多种功能。作为饮食空间,它为那些因工作关系无法回家就餐的人们提供了日常饮食。作为社会活动空间,它为人们的喜庆宴请、诗酒风流、协商联谊提供了场所。作为娱乐空间,饭店内的娱乐内容从招妓侑酒,到后来歌星唱歌、乐队伴奏,滑稽戏表演、魔术表演随时代而变换。作为展示上海社会风情世味的窗口,上海社会风尚的变化、人们身份认同的改变、人口分布的状况、女子社会地位的变化、阶级分化等都可以从中窥见。总之,饭店是我们了解上海城市生活的一个窗口。我们透过饭店看到不仅是上海市民的饮食生活,更重要的是看到了上海城市经济的发展、城市空间的扩展、城市生活面貌的变迁。更多还原

【Abstract】 This thesis tries to break through the view of food culture,study the restaurant against the background of the development of Shanghai,and explore how it has reflected the development of Shanghai society,the spread of the city space,the section of city function,and the change of city life.It studies the restaurant,focusing on reviewing Shanghai society through the restaurant.It makes analysis of the food in the restaurant,and further examines the social space of the restaurant.It finds out the particularity of Shanghai,and is supposed to explore the city development in China from the relationship between restaurant and Shanghai city,and the relationship between food and the city development.The restaurants in this paper include small restaurants for the general public, caiguan and jiulou where the middle and upper class dine,as well as the Western-style restaurants,corresponding to the "restaurant" in English.As for the hotel introduced into Shanghai in modern times,this paper also takes its food into consideration,but doesn’t lay a strong emphasis on it.The time involved in the paper is from 1843 to 1949.The former studies are mostly focused on the food,or just limited themselves within the introduction of restaurants,exploring the rises and falls of various Chinese cuisines,and analyzing the relationship between food and Shanghai society.As for the Western-style food,many articles and books have been contributed to describing its introduction,prevalence,and anecdotes.Depictions of certain famous Western-style restaurants are in numbers.Researchers have also been guided toward the transformation of society structure under the influence of restaurants,the change of food customs,and the introduction of sanitation system.Someone study restaurants from the point of city space,thinks that the restaurant offers a place for communication,social-relation developing,group gathering,social community defining,arbitrage,negotiation,boasting,entertainment,and releasing life pressure. Based on these studies above,the thesis tries to explore the development of Chinese restaurant,analyzes the relationship between the distribution of restaurants and the change of city space.It studies many functions of the restaurant and the evolvement of its function.It points out that the restaurant reflected the change of Shanghai city life.The available literature comes from archives,newspaper,magazines,guidebooks, directories of enterprise,diaries,novels,ect.Modern Shanghai gathered various Chinese cuisines.This paper studies these restaurants from time and space.In the diachronic view,it explores the historical progress of the Chinese restaurant flourishing in the development of city economy, and point out that it had been affected by the war,and the diversity of food was drawn from the dense population.In the view of space,this paper analyzes the distribution of Chinese restaurant that was enlarged with the city expansion,from county to the foreign concession,from south to north,from east to west,but the restaurants constantly assembled in the main commercial centers.This paper studies the development of all the regional restaurants,exploring the underlying causes of its prosperity and decline.The Western-style food is introduced into Shanghai as foreign food when the city became a treaty port in 1843.In the beginning Chinese people went and ate occasionally,and subsequently the young people and rich merchants liked to eat with belles or their wives.By the end of the 19^th century,it had been accepted by Shanghai as the food fashion.After the Repbulic of China（1912-1949）,the Western-style food became much more popular,when office employee took it as daily food.After the 1930s,a lot of Russian emigrants came to Shanghai.They lived in Avenue Joffre and ran inexpensive Russian restaurants.The Western-style food became more common. The popularity of the Western-style food should be contributed mainly to its adaption into Chinese society.Besides,its cleanliness and the simple manner were also important reasons.At first,the Western-style food restaurants opened around Yang King Pang where Chinese used to trade with foreigners.Later,there is no place like Foochow Road that gathered so many Western-style food restaurants ran by Chinese. The hotels ran by foreign people also provided Western-style food.These hotels stood alongside Huangpu River.Russian Western-style restaurants are mostly seated in Avenue Joffre where Russian dwelled.But there is almost no Western-style restaurants in county.In a word,Western-style restaurants ran by Chinese assembled in the main shopping centres of foreign concessions.Western-style food restaurants ran by foreign people assembled the place where foreign trade prospered and foreign people resided.The Western-style food is adapted into Chinese life.Chinese cuisine began to see the separate dining and attached importance to the nutrition of food.The Western-style restaurants ran by Chinese adopted the Western facility,while reserved Chinese drinking habitude.All these phenomena reflect the interaction and reciprocal influences between Chinese culture and Western culture.As a social space,the restaurant has many functions in Shanghai city life.As a food and drink space,it offers daily diet for people who have to eat outside.As a society activity space,it offers room to feast,drink,recite poem,negotiate,and make friends.As a entertainment space,its programs change with times,from inviting prostitutes to wait on when people drink,to offer the singing of the swan,band accompaniment,farce,and magic.The restaurant is a window which shows the change of social fashion,the shift of identity,distribution of the population,the change of women’s status,and the polarization of the classes.To sum up,restaurant is a window,through which we can understand Shanghai society.We can know the diet life of Shanghai citizen,the economical development of the city,the enlargement of city space,and the change of city life.更多还原