【作者】 张志云；

【导师】 姚伟钧；

【作者基本信息】 华中师范大学 ， 历史文献学， 2008， 博士

【摘要】 服饰文化史研究在当今国内史学界无疑处于一种边缘地位,这与海外有关物质文化史、服饰文化史研究的热潮形成鲜明反差,其深层背景可能在于史学理论与方法的差别。明代服饰文化同样是一个尚待深入研究的议题,纵观明代服饰与社会,有几个显著的特点不得不提:一是从王朝历史看,明王朝是最后一个由汉族人统治的王朝,夹在蒙古和满族两个“异族”王朝之间,无论是明王朝建立之初,还是其崩溃之际,服饰皆成为当时社会的主要焦点之一。二是明代建立了极其严密周备的服饰制度,可谓集汉唐以来之大成,其规定之烦琐与细密,超迈历代。三是明代前期与中后期的异质性,前期的“严肃冷酷”和后期的“自由奔放”对比强烈,人们在穿衣打扮上,前期与中后期有一个明显的变化。本论文尝试参照西方新文化史的某些理论与方法,从服饰文化的角度对明代社会进行政治、社会的历史分析,希望通过服饰、文化和社会多层面的互动考察,展示另一种历史阐释的空间,为我们理解明代社会发展之连续性与断裂性,提供一种思路。将服饰分别置于国家与社会的层面进行讨论,并注意国家与社会两者之间的交通,这是本文展开论述总的框架;与此同时,明代前期社会与中后期社会的巨大反差,构成了本文论述服饰变迁的时间框架。在这一框架之下,论文将礼治主义与消费主义作为理解明代服饰文化及其变迁的两条关键线索,并以此为主干展开详细论述。本论文共分为五部分:一为绪论,主要回顾了国内服饰文化史研究的现状与存在的问题,着重介绍了当今西方新史学的研究范式及其在物质文化、服饰文化研究上的理论、方法与成就,确定了本文的研究视角与讨论重点。第二部分主要是从国家“礼治”的角度来讨论明帝国的“衣冠之治”。在以往服饰文化研究中,无论是大陆还是台湾地区,学者们的眼光常常聚焦于中晚明社会的服饰变迁,而从政治文化的角度深入考察明帝国礼、服与国家统治之间错综复杂关系的文章比较少见,有鉴于此,此一部分从礼制规范与社会控制的层面系统地考察了明帝国的“衣冠之治”。文章追溯了中国“农冠之治”传统形成的原因与过程,结合历史背景对明代服饰制度进行了具体分析,也对国家如何运用服饰符号达到自己的目的作了动态考察。第三部分视角从国家转向社会,对明代中后期消费主义兴起的诸多现象进行了描绘与概括,并从多个层面分析了明代消费主义勃兴的原因与背景,试图超越以往从奢侈风气来讨论社会变迁的思路,而主张从消费文化变迁的角度来理解中晚明社会。第四部分,从具体切身之物——服饰的消费来探讨晚明的社会、文化变迁,着重讨论商业化与消费文化是如何改变了由国家主导的文化、权力与社会结构的生产方式的。在晚明服饰消费中,最引人注目的变化是江南的时尚运动,论文详细地描绘了时尚运动的轨迹与概貌,并试图矫正以往研究中不重视对时尚本身进行严格界定的缺失。在此基础上,文章进一步探讨了消费是如何重塑晚明的社会结构的。明代中期以后,随着商业化的发展与消费主义的兴起,特别是城市文化与时尚的出现,身份等级制的社会结构遭遇前所未有的挑战,消费与生活方式成为一种重要的社会分层指标,社会的实际分层不再是以国家性的身份为唯一标准,多元的分层机制出现了,身份(政治资本)、金钱(经济资本)与品味(文化资本)皆参与社会地位的角逐,其中,社会精英地位的竞争尤其激烈,金钱与品味的对决难解难分,这主要发生在士商阶层之间。第五部分为结论,认为晚明社会的发展既有明显断裂性(变)的一面,也有显著连续性(常)的一面,并具体阐述了晚明服饰文化当中的多种面向。在学界皆汲汲于探索晚明“社会转型”之际,对明代历史发展连续性的揭示或许有助于理解中国文化之特质。更多还原

【Abstract】 Cultural History of dress today’s domestic research historians will no doubt be in a position of the edge, This with overseas cultural history research in sharp contrast fever. Their deep historical background may be that the difference between theory and methods. Ming Dynasty costumes culture is one of the other to be the subject of an in-depth study, looking back in the Ming Dynasty costumes and society, there are several significant characteristics must be mentioned: First, from a historical dynasty, the Ming Dynasty is the last rule by the people of the Han dynasty, the Manchu and Mongolian caught in the two "mixed" between the dynasty, both at the beginning of the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, or its collapse, have become fashion At that time, the main focus of the community. Second, the Ming Dynasty set up a week of preparation is extremely tight clothing system can be set since the Great Han and Tang Dynasties, which provided detailed and cumbersome, super-step history. Third, in the late Ming Dynasty and early heterogeneity, pre-"serious cold" and the latter part of the "liberal" a strong contrast, people in the dress, and early in the latter part of a significant change. In this paper, in the light of the West to try some of the cultural history of the new theory and methods, from the dress culture of the Ming Dynasty to the social point of view of political, social and historical analysis, Hope that through clothing, cultural and social interaction of the multi-dimensional study to show a different interpretation of the history of space for our understanding of the social development of the Ming Dynasty and the continuity of the fracture, with a train of thought.Clothing will be placed in the respective countries and discussed the social front, and the attention of state and society between the traffic, which is to start this article on the general framework, At the same time, the early Ming Dynasty and the community in the latter part of the great social contrast, this article constitutes a change of clothing on a time frame.In this framework, the paper will be officiating and administration and consumerism as an understanding of the Ming Dynasty costumes and cultural changes of two key clues, and use it as the backbone to start in detail.This paper is divided into five parts:An introduction to the main review of the domestic apparel cultural history and current situation of research problems, Highlights of today’s New History of the Western paradigm and its material culture, fashion and cultural research on the theory, methods and achievements, This article identifies the research perspective and focus of the discussion.The second part is mainly from the country "ceremony governance," the perspective of the Ming Empire, "dressed rule." In the past, fashion and cultural studies, whether mainland or Taiwan, scholars often focus on the vision of the late Ming Dynasty costumes social change, and political culture from the perspective of an in-depth study of the Ming imperial ceremony, served with the complex relationship between the rule of the country’s The article is relatively rare. In view of this, this part of the ceremony from the system of social control and regulate the level of the systematic study of the Ming Empire, "dressed rule." The article traces the Chinese "rule dressed" and the reasons for the formation of the traditional process, combined with the historical background of the Ming Dynasty costumes for a specific analysis of the system, but also on how to use the national symbol costumes were made to achieve its own aims dynamic study.The third part from the national perspective to the community, in the late Ming Dynasty and the rise of consumption of a number of phenomena described and summary, And a number of levels from the analysis of the emergence of consumerism in the Ming Dynasty and the reasons for the background in an attempt to transcend the past, from luxury to discuss the trend of social change ideas, and ideas from the consumer point of view to grasp the macro in the late Ming society.The fourth part , from the consumer point of view of the late Ming Dynasty to explore the social and cultural changes focused on the commercialization and consumer culture is to change the state’s dominant culture, and social power structure of production. In the late Ming Dynasty costumes consumption, the most notable change is of the Jiangnan Fashion campaign. Papers describing in detail the path of movement and fashion profile, and try to correct the previous study did not attach importance to fashion their own strict definition of the missing. On this basis, the article further discussed how the consumer is reshaping the late Ming Dynasty social structure. After the mid-ming, with the development and commercialization of the rise of consumerism, particularly in urban culture and fashion, the identity of the social hierarchy structure of the face unprecedented challenges. Consumption and lifestyle become an important indicator of social stratification, social stratification is no longer based on the actual national identity as the only standard, multi-layered mechanism, The identity of (political capital), money (economic capital) and taste (cultural capital) are involved in the social status of the competition, Among them, the elite status of the fierce competition, in particular, the taste of money and locked in battle, which occurred mainly in people between the business class.Part V is the conclusion, think that the late Ming and social development of not only obvious fault (change) side, there are significant continuity of the (regular) side. On the continuity of the historical development of the Ming Dynasty might help reveal the understanding of the characteristics of Chinese culture.更多还原