【作者】 马冬；

【导师】 周伟洲；

【作者基本信息】 陕西师范大学 ， 中国古代史， 2006， 博士

【摘要】 本文是从北方民族服饰文化对内地汉族传统服饰影响的角度进行的专题研究。按照研究内容与方法的差别，分为上下两篇：上篇主要在国家制度这一相对宏观的背景下展开，包括两个专题：第一、北朝胡族传统与唐代大驾卤簿服饰制度。研究的结果表明：1、唐代大驾卤簿主要继承了天赐二年(405年)改制后的北魏大驾卤簿制度。在此基础之上，唐代大驾卤簿服饰按照人员职能属性的不同，大体应分为“诸卫服饰”，“车辇、麾幢仪仗人员服饰”，“供奉侍臣、四省局官及殿中侍御史等文吏服饰”，“鼓吹臣工服饰”，以及“‘导驾六引’人员服饰”等五大类。通过对这些类型服饰形制的全面深入分析，可以发现唐代大驾卤簿的服饰，从整体上表现出一种“胡汉”交融、以传统“胡服”形制风格为主的制度特征。2、由于大驾卤簿制度亦“仪”亦“卫”的制度属性，其在唐代国家礼制、兵制展现与研究方面具有重要的典型性意义。特别是其中的各类服饰，因为具有直观、生动与呈外共睹的特点，故而成为一种在“华夏”意象下，改造中国古代视觉性政治权威外观的有效工具。同时，通过这一改造过程，唐代大驾卤簿服饰也成为了推动当时民族融合，与塑造后世汉民族集体记忆的积极力量。第二、唐代服饰赏赐及与“四夷”关系。笔者认为：1、由于缘起于一般物质性赏赐，唐代服饰赏赐制度特征主要应由其所用服饰形制决定，因此，其体现出了比较强烈的胡族传统渊源影响。在王朝政治制度的不断发展中，唐代服饰赏赐首先成为了一种国家“特赏”，进而在与官常服品色制度的互相重叠下，逐渐形成了有唐一代颇具特色的“赐紫绯”之制，其在中国古代历史上的影响绵长而深远。另外，为了更为全面地描述相关制度的运行与流变，本文还利用了一些墓志史料，对晚唐内侍省官员的服饰赏赐情况进行了初步考察。2、唐帝国形成的历史与空前强大的国力，决定了其与周边、乃至部分绝远之域的许多内外民族，亦即所谓“四夷”的交往，远远超越了之前所有的统一中原王朝。而以“袍带”为形制主体的服饰赏赐，在唐与“四夷”关系中亦扮演了极其特殊与重要的角色。李唐国初，由于赏赐服饰的胡族形制特征，服饰赏赐成为李唐融洽“华夷”关系的有效工具；盛唐时期，服饰赏赐乃是宣化“四夷”、协调与制衡外蕃彼此关系的“适度威力”武器；中晚唐时，施展空间的萎缩使服饰赏赐基本局限在国家与个别“四夷”关系的某些具体操作层面，故其作用也大大地降低了。3、唐朝对“四夷”所用的“袍带”赏赐，在形制渊源上流露出浓厚的胡族传统特征，而在“华夷”政治关系层面则又具有“唐冠带”的华夏文化色彩。因此，“袍带”在内外“自认同”与“他认同”之“华夷”观念交织下，最终脱“胡”入“华”，成为代表唐代整体服饰形象的最重要常服形制。相关影响直至宋明时期亦为不绝。下篇选取唐代曾经流行的某些服饰形制，从微观的角度，重点研究了外来胡族服饰对唐代的影响。分为两个专题：第一、锁子甲与“(革占)鞢七事”。通过研究，我们有如下一些认识：1、可能最早是由生活在黑海以北的斯基泰人(Scythians)发明的锁子甲，直到唐代才为中原地区所真正了解。锁子甲入华后并未在军戎服饰范畴发挥其武备物的原本效能，相反，作为一种外来“方物”，却因奇特的结构特征与肌理外观带来的审美价值，在中国古代的文学、艺术学、建筑学和工艺学等领域焕发异彩，并进而成为一种独具异域情调、相对抽象的表现性装饰语言。2、作为初唐高级武官常服构件的“(革占)鞢七事”，有可能来源于中亚粟特骑士的传统出征装束。其相关制度的兴灭，部分反映了初唐至盛唐过渡时期，李唐政治气候与制度文化的变幻情形。后世所称“(革占)鞢带”的腰带名谓，与“(革占)鞢七事”有直接关系，但从北宋开始，人们的相关认识已产生了部分误差，这主要体现在混淆了“环带”与“(革占)鞢带”的本质差别。相关的消极影响至今犹存。第二、高巾子与官服“异文”。研究显示：1、虽然，今人以现在的服饰学知识，不认为幞头包帛下的“巾子”是独立的服饰件，但在唐代人们的认识中，情况恰恰相反。唐代高头巾子与西域高尖帽文化之间存在一定程度的联系，这种情况与武周时期在华胡人积极支持武周政权，以及他们在国家文物制度革新活动中的活跃表现有很大关系。武周高巾子给有唐一代巾子与幞头造型的发展定下了基调，从此，高度的不断突破成为了时尚的主要指标。2、唐初《武德衣服令》所定三、五品高官常服“异文”之“大科”、“小科”，很可能就是联珠纹对兽(禽)团窠图纹，它们整体上应属于所谓“陵阳公样”的图案范畴；武周官袍的“铭文”图案与新疆出土的许多西域织物上的汉字图纹，有审美趣诣与应用观念上的趋同特征；中晚唐流行的“鹘衔绶带”与“雁衔仪委”图纹，在渊源上流露出明显的传统祆教图案特征，但其使用者主观上却赋予其传统的“华夏”文化象征意象。可以看出，唐代官袍“异文”从总体形制方面，体现出较为明显的西域(中亚)文化影响，以及日渐“华夏化”发展趋势。3、唐代官常服所用纹绫上的图纹，从一开始就有“别阶”的功能，这一事实不应再被怀疑。只不过由于其阶差变化的跨度较大，且多是绫上的暗花图案，因此，没有服色那样鲜明与方便使用而已。但随着唐代散官制度的滥滞，从中晚唐开始，官服“异文”便开始摆脱从属地位，并逐步超越官服品色局限，成为了高级官僚阶层最重视的“别阶”符号。当然，此时“别阶”的对象，已从品位很大程度地转向了职位。总之，无论从礼制意象明晰的大驾卤簿服饰，还是到制度化、符号化色彩强烈的军戎类服物，乃至一般的常服构件，都明确显示出唐代服饰文明中胡族因素的强烈影响及主流性特征。而服饰作为社会文化的重要组成部分，必然要将这种影响扩散与渗透到唐代社会生活的其它诸多领域，并因之对后世产生绵远而深刻的影响。更多还原

【Abstract】 This paper is a special theme research carried out from the perspective of the impacts of the northern nationalities’ costume culture on Han nationality’s costume culture. Two major parts are included according to the differences in content and research methods.Part one is carried out in the macro-background of national systems, and contains two special themes:1. Traditions of Hu nationality during the North Dynasties and Da-Jia-Lu-Bu costume systems of Tang Dynasty. The results of the study are the following two:a. The "Da-Jia-Lu-bu costume system" of Tang Dynasty inherited its predecessor of the North Wei Dynasty and made some improvement. The "Da-Jia-Lu-Bu costume system" was mainly divided into 5 categories according to different functions: the bodyguard costume; the honor guard costume; the test officer costume; the music band costume; the leading troop costume. Study shows that "Da-Jia-Lu-Bu costume system" enjoyed the traditional characteristics of mingling of Han culture and Hu culture.b. The Da-Jia-Lu-Bu costume system contained both benefits and guarding properties, which made it very important in studying national benefits and troop establishment of Tang Dynasty especially the obvious and vivid characters of different costume forms which became the symbol of the national authority. Nationality mingle was improved by reform of "Da-Jia-Lu-Bu costume system.2. Costume Bestowment of Tang Dynasty and its relationship with Si-Yi (four minorities).a. The costume-bestowment system in Tang Dynasty stemmed from the normal material bestowment due to styles forms. Traditional Hu costume style generated strong influences on Tang costume style. During the development of political system, costume-bestowment system first became a kind of special national bestowment, then the "Ci-Zi-Fei" system interacted with officers’ informal costume system which showed a strong characteristics of Tang Dynasty .The costume-bestowment system left a profound influence in Chinese ancient history. In order to elaborate the costume-bestowment system comprehensively, this paper investigates bestowment case examples of Nei-Shi Ministry by taking advantages of inscription on the memorial tabletb. The unprecedented and strong national strength of Tang Dynasty determined its communications with circumferential even secluded nationalities. The costume-bestowment mainly in the form of "Pao-Dai" also played an important role in the relationship between Tang Dynasty and Si-Yi. In the early Tang Dynasty, the strong Hu characteristics in costume-bestowment system did a favor in mingling Hua and Yi. During Tang’s prosperous period, costume-bestowment system was the tool of propaganda and educating Si-Yi and, what’s more, the weapon of moderate and controlling relationship with barbarians. In the late of Tang Dynasty, the function of costume Bestow System declined in some cases because the empire’s political influence had shrunk.c. Pao Dai Bestowment in Tang Dynasty showed strongly Hu’s traditional characteristics while enjoying typical Hua Xia color on the political level. Under intertexture of concept of Han and non-Han, Pao Dai finaUy melted into Han by separating from Hu and became the most important symbol of informal costume system in Tang Dynasty. Its influence even could be found in the period of Song and Ming Dynasty.Part two, from the micro-perspective, studies with emphasis the Hu costume’s influences on Tang. Two special themes are included.1. Chain-mall and Die-Xie-Qi-ShiAfter studying these two subjects, we can draw following conclusions;First, Chain-mail was probably invented by Scythians living in the northern Black Sea and was known until Tang Dynasty. After Chain-mail was invited into Central Plain regions, it did not exert its guarding function in troops. As foreign good, its special structure and appearance were wildly used in architecture, articles, literature etc. then Chain-mail gradually became a relatively abstract decorative language with foreign features.Second, Die-Xie-Qi-Shi as the basic composition of military officers’ informal dress might be stemmed from ancient central Asia night attire。Rising and falling of the relative system partly reflected the change of political situation and system culture of Tang Dynasty in transition period. The "Die-Xie-Dai" had some directly relationship with the "Die-Xie-Qi-Shi". From the Northern Song Dynasty, however, the relative knowledge appeared to have some errors mainly in confusing the basic concept of "Huan-Dai" and "Tie-Xie-Dai" with the negative effects still existing today.2. High Jin-Zi and "Yi-Wen" in officer’s formal dressa. According to knowledge about dress today, people think "Jin-Zi" included "Fu-Tou" was an independent part but it was totally different in Tang Dynasty .High Jin-Zi and the top cap of the Western Regions had some relationship with each other to some extent, which might be pushed forward by Hu nationality’s activities in system reform in the period of Wu Zhou. High. Jin-Zi in the Wu Zhou period laid a foundation for development of the late Ji-Zi and Fu-Tou model and the height of Fu-Tou became an important fashion symbol.b. The big drawing and small drawing of top officers’ dresses prescribed by Law of Costume in Wu-de were very possible co-pearl cycles and bi-bear patterns, they should be part of the scale of called Ling-Yang-Gong-Yang; the inscription on officers’ dresses in Wu-Zhou and characters on textiles of western region discovered in XinJiang have some same distinguishes in appreciation of the beautiful and concept of use; the fashion of Hu-Xian-Shou-Dai and Yan-Xian-Wei-Yi in middle and last of Tang dynasty showed obvious traditional patterns of Zoroastrianism in origination, but these patterns were granted traditional characters of Hua-Xia Culture by their user in subject. Altogether, Yi-Wen of officers’ dresses ia Tang dynasty influenced in large extent by Western-region (middle-Asia) culture and showed Sinicization gradually.c. The patterns on officer’s informal dress of Tang Dynasty were provided with the function of distinction officer’s rank which is without a doubt today. Since the patterns on the dress were not so conspicuous as well as the users’ rank different a lot, using patterns to distinguish officer’s rank was not as easy as color. Cause to the abuse of San-guan system, from mid Tang Dynasty, "Yi-Wen" became a main symbol in distinguishing officers’ rank. The function of "Yi-Wen", on some level had begun to swift from rank to position..In conclusion, all Tang costumes, from the Da-Jia-Lu-Bu costume, to the guard costume, and even to the daily costume, took on the strong Hu influences. As an important part of social culture, costume spread these influences to other fields of Tang society, and generated profound impacts on the coming generations.更多还原