【作者】 贾玺增；

【导师】 包铭新；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2007， 博士

【摘要】 中国自古以“衣冠礼仪之邦”称于世界。中国古代首服与服装相辅相成，交相辉映，不仅是中国服饰礼仪文明的重要组成部分，也是世界文化宝库中一颗璀璨的明珠。在中国古代，首服与国家建制、社会习俗、个人身份等第乃至道德修养均有直接关系，其社会价值功能已经超过了其实用功能本身。本论文主要以汉代以降，生活在中原汉族政权治理区域的男性首服为研究对象，采取对文献、图像和实物进行综合研究的方式，就其在儒家文化背景影响下，通过典章令、礼俗规范等诸多形式，表现为男性首服的名类、源起、式样、演变、礼制、工艺和文化等具体内容，分门别类地进行系统的研究。研究过程中力求做到考据和论证并重、整体和细节平衡，并合理运用确论和存疑、纵向和横向并置的研究方法。主要研究内容和结论如下：第一，在文献整理和今人研究成果研析的基础上，以用途、外观、构成和佩戴方式为制定区分的准则，对中国古代首服进行科学合理的分类，提出对中国古代首服，应区分为冠类、帽类和巾类等三个项目的观点。冠类之特征标志为系缨贯笄，多用于礼服，为修饰之用；帽类之特征标志为扣戴遮覆，多用于公服和便服，为御寒之用；巾类之特征标志为扎束韬发，多用于公服和便服，为敛发之用。从外观来看，冠类首服可分为“单体式”、“分体式”和“复式式”三个类别，帽类首服分为“半球形”、“直筒型”和“菱角形”三种形式，巾类之特征标志为扎束韬发分为“纽髻式”、“韬发式”和“裹首式”三种形式。第二，在对文献史料考辨的基础上，结合相关图像和实物资料的比对和论证，按照主体、固冠和装饰构成的类别方式，对中国古代首服各部位的构成要素及其文化内涵展开详细的阐述。其中，主体部分包括上部、中部、下部和内部；固冠部分包括贯笄类和固带类；装饰部分包括顶部、侧部包括和后部包括。第三，以文献、图像和实物综合分析为基础，本着整体概括和细节深入的原则，按照冠类、帽类和巾类的研究顺序，对自汉代始，历魏晋南北朝、隋、唐、五代，迄宋、明两朝，各个时期内中国古代首服总貌的历史传承、发展脉络、相互影响，以及与政治制度演变和社会审美情趣变化之间的关系，进行全面系统的梳理。第四，以穿用者身份及其穿用场合为视角，在对汉代以降，历魏晋南北朝、隋、唐、五代，迄宋、明等汉族政权首服制度中的戴用场合、服饰搭配和等差制度进行全面考察和梳理的基础上，提出中国古代服饰应分为官服制度和民服制度，且官服制度又包括“礼服”、“公服”和“便服”三大类别的观点。其中，礼服类又可根据礼仪场合的不同，分为吉服、凶服、宾服、军服和嘉服等五种。吉礼有祭服；凶礼有丧服、素服、吊服；宾礼有朝服、赐服；军礼有戎服、甸服、常服(隋以前)；嘉礼有吉服。公服类有公服、常服；便服类有亵服、燕服、杂服、宴服。第五，在首服的源起、造型、演变、工艺、材质等诸多方面，经过对历史文献的充分考察，和对今人研究成果深入分析研究的基础上，结合图像和实物资料的整理、归纳和分析，选取冕冠、弁冠、武弁大冠、进贤冠、幞头、乌纱帽、巾帻等具体款式，进行有针对性的个案研究。其中，冕冠是古代帝王、诸侯及卿大夫参加祭祀典礼时最尊贵的礼冠；弁冠是古代贵族的一种礼冠，有皮弁、韦弁、爵弁等名类，通常配礼服用：通天冠是为历代帝王所专用的一种首服；进贤冠是我国服装史上，使用广泛、影响深远的文官所用之冠式；武弁大冠，为武官所戴，起源于战国时期胡人的搭耳帽。更多还原

【Abstract】 Chinese Ancient Headgear, not only can be recognized as the important element in Chinese Ornament Culture, but as a brilliant and glossy pearl in World Ornament Cultural Treasure, which own the features: the unique style, the complete system and the profound coherence. Research on the Chinese Ancient Ornament-Headgear, mainly focus on the content on the classification, origin, style, evolution, courtesy system, culture and technique, which own by social higher male ranking, which had been in the stipulation and the system by code, order and courtesy custom, at the Chinese Ancient historical periods, beginning from the Wei-Jin and North-South Dynasty, extending at the Sui Dynasty, Tang Dynasty, Five-stage Dynasty, and Song and Ming Dynasty, the authorities were manipulated by Han people (the Han People is the largest ethnic group of the Chinese race) and influenced by the culture of Confucianism.The methods on research Chinese Ancient Headgear, the determinative view points and evidence and the suspicious existence are adopted reasonably, and with integration of vertical direction and the horizontal direction, foundationally on comprehensive research with the documentary, the figure and the objects, regarding the evidence inspection, the proof and the ordering as the important principles, pursuing on the equidistant and entire summary and the detailed and infiltration content. The content and the viewpoints in the book, Chinese Ancient Headgear, are listed as follow:First in first:The viewpoint, Chinese Ancient Headgear should be classified as the Crest, the Hats and the Kerchief, is point out after the Chinese Ancient Headgear had been classified scientifically and reasonably, foundationally on the integration of the historical documentary and the research achievement, regarding the function, the online, and the framework, the wearing as the standard. And the symbol of the feature of the Crest is the bound-chip, which was more often applied to the courtesy dressing and the decoration; The symbol of the feature of the Hats indicates for spiking, wearing, hiding and covering, which was more often applied to the Official Suits and the ordinary wearing, to cold protection, the symbol of the feature of the kerchief was bound-twist Hair, which was more often applied to the official dressing and the ordinary wearing to the hair collection. The Headgear of the Crests was classified as the "exclusive type", the "separation type" and the "compound type"; And the Headgear of the Hats was classified as the "semi-sphere type", the "vertical cylinder", and the "caltrop type"; And the headgear of the kerchief was classified as the "twisted-hair type" and the "head-packed type". The content of this part is the theoretical foundation and the necessary for the detailed and the systematical extension on the academic paper "Chinese Ancient Headgear".Secondly:The detailed description is extended on the main factors of the framework of the individual and the relative cultural coherence, with the documentary and the historical reference as the cutting- point, incorporating on the proof with the illustration and the reference on objects, under the entire comprehension, according to the classification as the "main body", "fixed crest" and the "profile of decoration". And the Main Body were classified as "the upper", "the medium", "the lower and the interior"; the fixed crest was classified as the "Guan Ji" and the "fixed-bind" and the decorative section was classified as the top, the side section and the reverse section.Thirdly:The wholly historical dissemination and inheritance, and the system of the development, the respective influence, as well as the relationship between the social aesthetics appreciation and the migration of the political systems, the ranges and the periods in Chinese Ancient history, beginning at the Han Dynasty, extending at the Wei-Jin and North-South Dynasty, Sui Dynasty, Tang Dynasty, Five-stage and Song Dynasty and Ming Dynasty, the consequence on research according to the Crest, the Hats and the Kerchief are analyzed and proved systematically and entirely, foundationally on the comprehensive analysis with documentary, illustration and objects, regarding the entire summary and the detailed description.Fourthly:Also the viewpoint of the Chinese Ancient Ornament should be classified as the official system and the civil system is point out, foundationally on the entire investigation and analysis on wearing situation ornament combination and ranking difference system of the headgear system in the historical periods by Han People Authorities, from the concern-point on the dressers status, and dress situation. And also, Official Ornament includes the "courtesy dressing ornament’" and "public dressing ornament" and the "ordinary dressing ornament". And courtesy dressing ornament is classified as the "blessing dress", "mourning dress" , "guest-dress" , "military uniform" , "banquet-dress" according to the different courtesy ceremonious occasion.Fifthly:The concrete style are researched and analyzed mainly, such as the"Mian Cap", "Bian Cap", "Wu Bian Big Cap", "Jin Xian Cap", "Fu Tou","Official Cap", "Jin Zeng", incorporating on the ordering, contributing,and analyzing, with the illustration and figure and objects, foundationallyon the entire investigation on the historical documentary and the researchachievement, from the origin, the mode, the evolution, the technique andthe material and substance. And the "Mian Cap" was used to the ancientemperors, the marquises, the ministers and nobleman as the mostrespectful courtesy crest when they participate at the ceremony; Anancient cap worn on ceremonious occasions was a courtesy crest used bynobleman in Chinese Ancient history, there the "Pi Bian", "Wei Bian","Jue Bian" were classified, and usually combined with courtesy dressing;"Tong Tian Hat" was a headgear, which specially for emperors bysuccessive Dynasty; "Jin Xian Guan" was worn by cultural officials,which had the feature of the extended usage, and the profound impact;"Wu Bian Da Guan" was worn by military officers, which origins fromthe "ears-covered Hat" by Hu People at the War Period.更多还原