【作者】 张佩华；

【导师】 冯勋伟；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织工程， 2005， 博士

【摘要】 随着我国针织工业的发展及新型原料的不断涌现,纬编添纱组织已被广泛地应用在服饰、装饰及产业用织物中,尤其是近几年来,有关将各种原料以一定的规律添纱配置形成导湿快干功能性和舒适性针织服装,利用添纱效应设计不同织物风格的针织时装,以及利用添纱效应获取各种不同界面制成技术用纺织品等的研究和报道越来越多。在各种不同筒径的针织圆纬机、各种不同机号的针织横机上都可以形成纬编添纱组织结构的面料,这些面料在性能上兼有地纱和面纱的特点,大大改善了织物的弹性、内在质量和外观效应。但是,面对变化多端的针织机器及琳琅满目的针织原料,良好的添纱效果却不易达到。纤维、纱线的性质、导纱嘴的结构、针织机的筒径、织针的形状、添纱成圈工艺过程、给纱装置及给纱张力等因素都会影响添纱组织编织过程中针钩内地、面纱的相对位置,进而影响添纱织物的最终效果。人们在实践中发现,传统的添纱工艺理论已不再完全适用于现代针织机械的编织。目前国内外有关添纱工艺的研究主要以实际生产为主,针对新开发的某些产品进行编织工艺、产品性能方面的探讨,而缺乏对添纱工艺的基础理论研究,缺乏对添纱织物添纱效果的评价及测试方法的研究。选择这一课题的目的是通过理论分析和实验研究来完善原有的添纱工艺理论,补充新的适用于现代添纱编织的工艺理论和技术。这对于设计和开发服用、装饰用、产业用添纱织物,丰富纬编添纱工艺理论,具有一定的指导意义和实用价值。 本论文较为系统地研究了纬编添纱组织垫纱工艺理论,实验探讨了影响纬编添纱织物跳纱现象的因素,首次尝试开发了计算机辅助快速测量添纱织物跳纱程度的专用软件。摘要 本论文采用的研究方法包括理论分析、实验研究和建立测试方法与评价指标。在理论分析方面运用空间解析几何原理,推导了添纱织物垫纱时地、面纱纱线断面轨迹。结合MATLAB软件编程和实验,揭示了15英寸和30英寸筒径圆纬机上纱线断面轨迹的规律,并运用该断面轨迹方程推导出地、面纱线圈在针钩内相遇时的平面坐标位置及纱线显露关系。推导了确立地、面纱垫纱纵、横角的一般值与临界值公式。在实验研究方面,探讨了圆纬机上纱线性质、线圈长度对添纱效果的影响,探讨了横机上导纱嘴结构形状和位置、编织工艺、组织结构等因素对添纱效果的影响。在评价添纱织物添纱效果及外观疵点研究方面,建立了评价指标,并运用v工SUALBASIc编程工具,开发了计算机辅助快速测量添纱织物跳纱程度的专用软件。 通过添纱垫纱工艺理论研究得出:15英寸和30英寸筒径圆纬机编织添纱织物时地、面纱纱线断面轨迹均为一直线,且一元线性相关,30英寸筒径圆纬机的纱线断面轨迹线的线性相关性大于15英寸筒径的圆纬机,地纱断面轨迹线的线性相关性大于面纱;两种筒径的机器编织添纱织物时其地、面纱垫纱纵、横角的垫纱规律不同,15英寸筒径的圆纬机地、面纱的垫纱规律是a面<a地,p面<p地,30英寸筒径的圆纬机地、面纱的垫纱规律是a面<a地,p面>p地,分别与添纱垫纱时地、面纱在针钩内相遇时的规律一致;垫纱角度理论计算值与实验测试数据值一致;无论何种筒径的圆纬机,在添纱编织范围内,地、面纱垫纱角度差异越大,纱线断面轨迹线越分离,添纱效果越好。 通过纱线性质、线圈长度与圆纬机添纱编织效果实验研究得出:不同地、面纱纱线刚度、纱线细度和纱线摩擦系数对添纱织物跳纱程度的影响规律按照其影响的重要程度排序是:纱线刚度>摩擦系数>纱线细度;添纱织物编织时面纱刚度应小于地纱刚度;面纱摩擦系数应大于地纱摩擦系数;面纱线圈长度应大于地纱线圈长度,其地、面纱线圈长度差异程度小于5%。更多还原

【Abstract】 With the development of knitting industry and new fiber materials, more and more weft-knit platted fabrics are used in the fields of clothing, decoration and technical textiles, especially in the functional underwear, casual knits and medical textiles. These platted fabrics produced in circular and flat knitting machines characterize the properties of both plating yarn and ground yarn and have the color effects on both sides. During the production of platted fabrics, there are many factors influence the fabric quality and platting effects such as physical and mechanical properties of fiber and yarn, feeder construction and position, needle shape, knitting action, tension of yarn feeder supply and drawn-off mechanism etc. It seems the traditional plating theory cannot be completely applied to the large diameter knitting machines. At present, most researches on it are focusing on the plating technique and properties of the newer platted fabrics, and seldom relates to the foundation research and evaluation of misplating degree. This paper mainly researches on the theory of plating stitch formation during the yarn laying and analyses the factors affecting on the plating effects by experiments. This paper also develops a new kind of testing software for fabric misplating evaluation by means of computer. The aim of this study is to complement the traditional plating theory and plating techniques. It has both significant meanings and practical values for applying platting knitted fabrics to clothing, decoration and technical textiles end uses.The research methods of this paper include theoretical analysis, experiments study and testing methods establishment. Using the Space Analytic Geometry Principle, this paper deduced the formulas of yarn cross-section track during the yarn laying of platted loop formation, reveled the regulation of platting and ground yarn cross-section tracks both of 15 and 30diameter circular knitting machine and showed the meeting position of these two yarns at the hook of latch needle given by formula and figure respectively. The calculation formulas of yarn laying angles as well as critical values at vertical and horizontal planes were also deduced in this paper. On the experimental research, this paper discussed the factors affecting the misplating problems such as yarn properties and loop length on circular knitting machine and yarn feeder, knitting technique and fabric structures on flat knitting machine respectively. On the testing method and misplating evaluation study, this paper developed a new kind of testing software especially faster measuring misplating degree of platted fabrics by means of Visual Basic. Summarization of this paper, some useful conclusions are as follows.The regularity of two yarn cross-section tracks produced from 15 and 30 diameter circular knitting machine is liner, and the regression coefficients both of large diameter circular knitting machine and ground yarn are larger than that of small diameter and plating yarn respectively. These two kinds of knitting machines have different yarn laying angles showing α_p<α_G , β_p<β_g for small diameter and α_p<α_G β_p<β_g for large diameter where small marks P and G represent plating yarn and ground yarn respectively. The formula values of yarn laying angle is consistent with the testing data. Within the range of plating technique, the more separate of two yarn tracks, the well plating effect can be obtained.There are many factors affecting platting effects of platted fabrics. On the circular knitting machine, the sequence of strong influencing is stiffness coefficient > rub coefficient > yarn count. The stiffness of plating yarn should be smaller than that of ground yarn, but the rub coefficient and loop length are on the contrary. On the flat knitting machine, the construction and adjustment of feeder has very important to the plating quality. The modified feeders can greatly improve the accurate plating. The feeder should be positioned vertically above the needle bed and located at a suitable height. Within the ext更多还原