【作者】 王欣；

【导师】 许星；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 服装， 2013， 博士

【摘要】 苏绣有着悠久的历史，它始于人们对身体的装饰，先后历经了从画身到纹身，再到画服，直至绣服的发展过程。从汉代《说苑》中的“绣衣而豹裘者”到宋代“画绣”、明代闺阁绣的盛行，再到清代仿真绣的开创，苏绣艺术不断发生着演化。在吴文化的长期浸润之下，经过一代代兰心蕙性的苏绣艺人不断探索，以及文人墨客潜移默化的影响，苏绣最终形成了“精、细、雅、洁”的艺术风格，位居中国“四大名绣”之首。本文主要以当代苏绣艺术为研究对象，运用文献查阅、资料搜集、田野调查等方法，广泛搜集了大量有关苏绣历史、吴文化、传统工艺美术发展、当代苏绣创作、现代服饰设计、当代苏绣传承等方面的资料。通过梳理苏绣艺术发展的主要阶段、分析其艺术特色，寻求它在“市场态”中的角色定位和功能定位，揭示当代苏绣艺术在人类社会发展和文明变迁过程中的生存和应用空间。通过研究发现，苏绣艺术既是具有商业属性的商品，又是被赋予精神属性的文化艺术产物，这种特殊身份决定它从本质上就具备了实用性与文化艺术性两大特征。文章在论述“当代性”下苏绣艺术的转型时，提出其当代定位也应兼顾上述两方面，立足于当代民众的日常生活，不断“适应”新需求。论文还对当代苏绣艺术创新的尺度、途径进行了界定，谈及创新应当坚守苏绣艺术的文化特征、“手工”属性和艺术风格的基本前提，并且从题材、技艺、材料、艺术形式方面明确了苏绣艺术在当代应用中的具体方向。此外，论文对“市场态”中苏绣的发展特征、艺术创新情况进行了整理与分析，进而对当代苏绣艺术在艺术品、日用服饰和文化创意产业等领域中的具体特征与设计方法做了详细分析和总结，为苏绣艺术和其它优秀传统工艺美术的可持续发展提供了启示。更多还原

【Abstract】 Suzhou Embroidery has a long history. It started with people’s decoration of the body.It was a process from painting to tattoo the body, and then to draw clothing, untilembroidered clothing. The development of Suzhou Embroidery art has been changingconstantly. That "people wore in embroidered clothing and fur" was described in"Shuoyuan" in Han dynasty, and after that Painted Embroidery was prevailed in the Songdynasty, then the golden age of the Boudoir Embroidery came in Ming dynasty, and thenSimulation Embroidery was created in Qing dynasty. Eventually under the long-terminfluence of the culture of Wu, generations of Suzhou Embroidery artists with great talentsto explore continuously and the subtle influence of poets and literary men, SuzhouEmbroidery has formed an artistic style of "exquisite, fine, elegant and pure" and becomesthe best of Four Major Forms of Chinese Embroidery.This paper mainly talks about the contemporary Suzhou Embroidery art using themethods of consult the relevant documents，information collection，field research, etc.The writer has widely collected a large amount of material of Suzhou Embroidery history,Wu culture, traditional arts and crafts development, contemporary works and inheritance ofSuzhou Embroidery, fashion design, etc. By reviewing the main stages of SuzhouEmbroidery art development and analyzing its artistic features, its role and functionorientation can be searched in its state of marketing, and then we can find the living spaceand application space of contemporary Suzhou Embroidery art in the social developmentand process of culture change.Through this study, we found that Suzhou Embroidery art was not only the goods withcommercial properties, but also the cultural and artistic product endowed with spiritualattributes. The special identity decided that it essentially has the practical and culturalartistic characteristics. This paper puts forward that its artistic orientation should also payattention to the two aspects above, and Suzhou Embroidery art should be based on thecontemporary people’s daily life and adapt to the new demand while the moderntransformation constantly. This paper defines the scale and ways of the contemporary Suzhou Embroidery art innovation. When it comes to innovation, we should stick to thebasic premise of the cultural features,"manual" attribute and artistic style of SuzhouEmbroidery art and clear the specific direction of contemporary Suzhou Embroidery art’sapplication from the aspects of theme, craft, material, art form and so on. This paper alsoreorganizes and analyzes the development and innovation features of Suzhou Embroideryin the state of marketing, and made the detailed analysis on the specific characteristics andthe design methods of contemporary Suzhou Embroidery art in art, fashion, cultural andcreative industry. The result of this study will provide some tips for the development ofSuzhou Embroidery art and other excellent traditional arts and crafts.更多还原