【作者】 程雅娟；

【导师】 廖军；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 设计艺术学， 2013， 博士

【摘要】 中华民族的乐舞文化历史悠久，传统深厚，上下五千年，记录中华乐舞发展轨迹的文字和图像连绵不断。乐舞文化集诗吟、乐曲、舞蹈三种中国传统经典艺术于一身，并在长期的发展中不断生发出服饰、舞美、道具等更多的艺术分支，特别是乐舞服饰，如同一面镜子般折射出乐舞文化的发展与变化。宋辽金时期是乐舞艺术发展的转折时期，乐舞在继承前朝的同时出现诸多转变。宫廷与民间乐舞十分繁盛，开始出现一定的情节和人物，孕育了后世戏曲艺术及多种艺术形式。纯舞逐渐衰落，乐舞中戏剧性因素逐渐增强。变革在乐舞服饰中亦得以体现，服饰的角色性、主题性逐渐增强，特别在杂剧类乐舞表演中，乐舞服饰带有较强的个性特征。乐舞者透过服饰传达出角色的身份、性格、地位等等信息，甚至将这些角色特点夸张与放大，呈现一定的戏剧效果。对宋辽金时期的乐舞服饰研究，无论对民族服饰文化、乐舞文化，或戏曲服饰文化溯源研究来说，都具有十分重要的意义，而本文的研究就是针对此问题而进行。本文将宋辽金的乐舞服饰其分为仪式表演类乐舞服饰、社会生活类乐舞服饰、宗教类乐舞服饰三种类型。其中仪式表演类乐舞服饰主要包括：大曲、大乐类服饰、队舞服饰、旗鼓乐舞服饰；社会生活类乐舞服饰则主要包括：伎乐服饰、舞队服饰、杂剧服饰、备宴与宴饮乐舞服饰、丧葬乐舞服饰等；宗教类乐舞则主要包括佛教乐舞服饰与道教乐舞服饰。并分别对其乐舞服饰的精神内涵与艺术特征进行研究分析。乐舞服饰的精神内涵涵盖广阔，包括乐舞主题、价值观念、社会审美观等多方面。宋辽金时期的乐舞服饰的主题涵盖了西域文化、节庆文化、宗教文化等；价值观念包括了尚“雅”的社会心理、尚“乐”的生命精神、尚“祥”的思想观念、“鬼神”崇拜的民间思想等等；社会审美观包括了崇尚“簪花”、道袍等。这些精神内涵是几千年来乐舞文化、民俗文化、礼乐文化不断发展和积淀的结果，是乐舞服饰文化精神内涵的精粹。乐舞服饰又是服饰艺术中一个特殊分支，它由形制、色彩、纹饰、搭配、材质、工艺等因素组成，创造出满足人们审美的视觉语言，因此它又是一种造型艺术。其艺术特征主要由审美性、装饰性和符号性构成。宋辽金时期深厚的文化底蕴，对前朝乐舞服饰文化的继承，尚雅崇儒的社会风气与审美趣味，广泛的民间乐舞土壤，乐舞中戏曲元素的产生，都使这一时期的乐舞服饰在审美性、装饰性和符号性这三方面皆取得了重大进展，为后世乐舞服饰的持续发展以及博大精深的戏曲服饰的产生起到巨大作用。更多还原

【Abstract】 Chinese music and dance culture had a long history of about five thousand years，ithad Profound traditional culture. The record in the form of pictures and character about itsdevelopment path was continuous. Music and dance culture combined reciting poetry，music，dance，they were three forms of Chinese traditional classical art. Costumes，choreography，props and other more artistic branch gradually produced. Especially musicand dance costumes reflected the cultural development and the change like a mirror.Great changes took place in music and dance art in Song，Liao and Jin dynasties. Itinherited many of the former，simultaneously had changed.Music and dance art flourishedboth in the court and the civil. Plot and characters began to appear.It gaved birth to thefuture opera art and other forms. Pure dance began to decline gradually. Dramatic factorsgradually increased. The change in the music and dance costumes occurred. Roles，thematic gradually increased. Particularly in drama dance performances.Music and dancecostumes had strong personality traits. role actor’s identity，character，status informationwas conveyed by music and dance costumes. Role characteristics was exaggerated andenlarged to exhibit dramatic effect. Study on the music and dance costumes in Song，Liaoand Jin Dynasty，has very important significance，regardless of the national costumeculture，music and dance culture，or opera costumes generation.And this Article will becompleted for these problems.This article will classify the music and dance costumes in Song，Liao and Jin dynastyto ritual acting music and dance costumes.Social music and dance costumes and religiousmusic and dance costumes. Ritual acting dance and music costumes will include： okuma、great music apparel，team music and dance costumes，flag drumming music and dancecostumes. Social music and dance costumes includes:Kuregaku costumes，dance teamcostumes，drama costumes，Feast music and dance，funeral music and dance costumes and so on.Spiritual content and artistic characteristics of music and dance costumes will beanalysised and researched.Spiritual connotation of the music and dance costumes containes lot. Including musicand dance theme，values，social aesthetics and other aspects. Music and dance costumes inSong， Liao and Jin Dynasties covered the topic of the Western， festivals andReligion.The thought of Values included advocating Elegance, Joy, Auspicious，Ghosts and fairies so on. Social aesthetics included advocating flower and Robes.Thesespiritual connotation was the result of developing of Music and dance culture，folk culture，Ritual culture. it was the the essence of music and dance cultrue.Dance costumes is a special branch of the costume art，It consists of shapes，colors，decoration，matching，material，technology and other factors composed. It created a visuallanguage to meet people’s aesthetic.Therefore，it is also one kind of Modeling art. Artisticfeatures are composited mainly by aesthetic，decorative and symbolic. rich culturalaccumulation in Song，Liao and Jin Dynasties，the inheritance of the former dancecostumes for cultural，The social atmosphere and the social atmosphere of pursuiting ofelegance and confucianism.The wide range of folk music and dance of the soil，Musicaldance drama production，all above-mentioned made the music and dance costumes makegreat progress In practicality，aesthetic，decorative and symbolic aspects.It played asignificant role for music and dance costumes developing continuously and the generationof the drama costumes.更多还原