【作者】 夏克尔·赛塔尔；

【导师】 杨小明；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 中国古代纺织工程， 2014， 博士

【摘要】 维吾尔地毯是维吾尔族传统的手工艺品,它是融合纺纱、染色、织毯、绘画为一体的手工艺品,集实用与艺术为于一身。它产生于2000多年之前并从那个时代就随着经济发展逐渐发展。和田地区的地毯是新疆维吾尔地毯中最具代表性,且具最高成就的地毯。本文以科技田野考古和文献研究视角对新疆维吾尔族地毯包括和田地毯进行实证研究,以期系统对这一非物质文化遗产作详实的记录和研究。论文内容分为十章：第一章为绪论。首先,论述新疆地毯的研究背景及意义。其次,基于数据库相关文献分析,对国内外研究现状进行详细分析；最后,对研究内容和研究方法进行详细说明。第二章为历史篇。主要从有关维吾尔族地毯的古代文学记载、新疆维吾尔自治区博物馆考古队、自治区文物考古研究所以及自治区各地州文物局的几十年来的文物考古后发布的关于塔里木盆地的一些古墓发掘报告信息入手,全面深入地研究维吾尔族民间地毯的起源问题、具体分析维吾尔族和田地毯的产生的历史基础、古代和田地区的环境,包括古代塔里木盆地的自然环境、生存环境、古代和田生态环境的变迁、古代和田地区的社会形态等内容。第三章到第九章为工艺篇。第三章首先分析和田地毯的原料基础,包括和田绵羊的特征,和田传统的棉花品种及其特点等内容。其次分析古代和田地毯产生的技术基础,包括织布技术、印染技术、装饰技术等内容,通过这些内容总结古代和田地毯的特点。第四章首先分析维吾尔族和田地毯的结构,包括它的直面和横面部分结构的组成元素等内容。其次,分析维吾尔族和田地毯图案,包括地毯图案的渊源、图案的分类、图案成份的排列方式、地毯边图案的种类、结构以及边图案跟里面花纹的安排方法等等内容。第五章分析维吾尔族和田地毯的种类、特点以及地毯花纹样式的分类等等内容。第六、七章分别分析维吾尔族和田地毯的原料加工和印染工艺,包括传统方式纺毛线的工具及其方法、传统方式纺棉线的工具及其方法等等内容。第八、九章分别分析维吾尔族和田地毯的织毯机械和织毯工艺,包括传统木制织毯机械及其结构、钢结构织毯机械及其结构、织地毯的技术要求、织地毯之前的准备工作、织地毯时遇到的问题及其解决方法等内容。第十章为评价篇。主要研究维吾尔族和田地毯的综合价值。首先,分析维吾尔族和田地毯的消费价值(原消费价值和夸大消费价值)、经济价值、社会价值(就业价值,象征性价值,旅游价值)。再次,分析当代维吾尔族和田地毯文化的变化,包括生产层次、消费层次及文化层次的变化等等内容。通过研究,本文有以下认识：1、维吾尔族地毯以和田地毯为代表,其产生和发展由其优越的自然地理条件所决定。自然环境使和田地区盛产优质羊毛和棉花,这为和田地毯的发展提供了物质基础；和田地区作为丝绸之路上的重要驻点,既是中西方商品的中转站,也是中西方纺织技术的交汇地,这使得和田地区的纺织技术发达,为和田地毯的发展提供了技术基础。同时,优越的地理位置使得商人的频繁往来,有利于和田地区特产——和田地毯的外销,这成为和田地毯发展的强大动力。总之,和田地毯的产生、发展究其根本原因还是自然地理条件所决定,这与历史学界关于文明的自然决定论点相契合。2、和田地毯的结构特点决定了其花纹结构,其花纹图案则来源于生产和生活实践,反映了维吾尔族的生活思想和宗教信仰观念,是极具民族特色的图案。和田地毯图案的花文组很多,大体上以自然排列和拼缀排列以及这两种方法组合,从单独花纹变成大的和较复杂的花纹组。地毯的花纹图案以协调和非协调关系安排,和地毯的边图案、里面花纹图案各具特色。3、全文系统全面地介绍了和田地毯的图案,这在美术艺术方面极具价值,有利当前的传统地毯业的地毯纹样设计借鉴。4、全文比较系统地介绍了和田地毯的原料加工、印染工艺流程,以及其织毯机械的结构和操作过程,这在汉文文献中尚属首例。5、和田地毯作为一种民间传统制作工艺,却与其它地域的民间传统制作工艺有完全不同的区别,它并不是一种行将消亡的民间传统手工艺,而是一种在新形势下有着新生命力手工技艺,主要由于它有其重要的民族消费价值和经济价值、社会价值,并且其地毯文化在生产层次、消费层次、文化层次都呈现出新的细微变化,这些变化为和田地毯的发展提供了新的契机。和田地毯业只有以这些变化为着力点,将这些变化转化为消费心理,进而强化消费需求,给和田地毯的发展提供持续的、强有力的动力,才能真正为保护和田地毯起到积极的作用。更多还原

【Abstract】 Uyghur carpet is the traditional Uyghur handicraft, it is the fusion of spinning, dyeing, knitting and painting with both practical and artistic value. Its origination dates back to more than2000years ago and it has been evolving gradually ever since along with the economic development. Hotan carpet is the most representative one of Xinjiang carpet, and it represents the highest achievement. This thesis conducts an empirical research from the perspective of scientific and technological field archaeology and literature research on Xinjiang Uyghur carpets including Hotan carpets,in hope to have a detailed records and research on the intangible cultural heritage in a systemic way.The dissertation comprises ten chapters.Chapter Ⅰ is introduction. Firstly, it discusses the research background and significance of carpet in Xinjiang. Secondly,it conducts a detailed analysis on research status at home and abroad based on the database related literature analysis. Finally, it elaborates the research contents and research methods in detail.Chapter2is about history. Mainly based on ancient literature about Uyghurs carpet, the excavation report of some ancient tombs in the Tarim basin released by the Xinjiang Uyghur autonomous region museum archaeology team, cultural heritage archaeological institute of municipality, Cultural Relics Bureau of municipality after decades of cultural relic archaeology, this chapter has a comprehensive and in-depth study on the origin of the Uyghur folk carpet, concretely analyzes the historical foundation of Uygur Hotan carpet, the ancient environment of Hotan area, including the ancient natural environment of the Tarim basin, the living environment, the changes of ecological environment in ancient Hotan, and the ancient social form in Hotan region.Chapter3to9is about handicraft.The third chapter firstly analyzes the raw materials of Hotan carpet, including the characteristics of Hotan sheep, Hotan traditional cotton varieties and its characteristics etc. Secondly, this chapter analyzes the technical foundation of the ancient Hotan carpet, including weaving technology, printing and dyeing technology, decorative technology and so on, and summarizes the characteristics of ancient Hotan carpet through these content. The fourth chapter firstly analyzes the structure of Hotan carpet, including the constituent elements of its frontal surface and the horizontal structure, etc. Secondly, it analyzes the Uygur Hotan carpet design, including the origin of carpet pattern, the classification of the pattern, the arrangement of design elements, the types and structure of carpet edge design, and arrangement method of edge design and inside pattern and so on. The fifth chapter analyzes the types, characteristic and classification of carpet pattern style of Uyghur Hotan carpet and so on. Chapter6and7are the analysis on raw material processing and printing dyeing processing of Uyghur Hotan carpet respectively, including tools and methods of traditional wool spinning, tools and methods of traditional cotton spinning, and so on. Chapter8and9respectively analyzes the Uighur Hotan carpet-woven machinery and carpet-woven process, including traditional wooden carpet-woven machinery and its structure, steel structure carpet-woven machinery and its structure, along with technical requirements, preparation for carpet weaving, problems encountered in weaving and their solutions, etc.Chapter10is about evaluation, it mainly investigates the comprehensive value of Uyghur Hotan carpet. First of all,it analyzes the consumption value (the original value and exaggerated consumption value), economic value, and social value (employment value, symbolic value, tourism value)of Uyghur Hotan carpet. Furthermore, it analyzes the change of the modern Uyghur Hotan carpet culture, including the production level, the change of the consumption level and cultural level, and so on.The conclusions of the dissertation are as follow.1. Uyghur carpet is represented by Hotan carpet, its emergence and development is decided by its superior geographical conditions. Natural environment in Hotan makes this area abundant with high quality wool and cotton, which provides material foundation for the development of Hotan carpet; Hotan region as an important stagnation point on the silk road acts not only as a transfer station of Chinese and Western goods,but also as the intersection of Western and Chinese textile technology, which makes the textile technology in Hotan region highly developed,and provides technical foundation for the development of Hotan carpet. At the same time, excellent geographical location makes merchants exchange frequently, which facilitates Hotan specialty Hotan carpet’s export, and it becomes a strong driving force for the development of Hotan carpet. In general,the emergence and development of Hotan carpet is ultimately determined by the natural geographical conditions, which is in accordance with natural determinism of civilization in history world.2. The structure characteristics of Hotan carpet determine its decorative pattern, which is derived from production and life practice, and reflects the Uyghur life thoughts and religious ideas, it is the design with extreme national characteristic. There are lots of patterns on Hotan carpet, mainly by natural patchwork arrangement and permutation combination and then expand individual patterns into larger and more complex pattern group. The pattern of carpet and coordination or incoordination arrangements,the edge designs of the carpet, and the patterns inside all have their unique characteristics.3. This thesis systemically and comprehensively introduces Hotan carpet pattern, which has extreme artistic and aesthetic value, and it will be beneficial to designing carpet patterns of current traditional carpet industry.4.This thesis systematically introduces the raw materials processing of Hotan carpet, printing and dyeing process, as well as carpet-woven machinery structure and operation process, which are the first time to be introduced in Chinese literature.5. Hotan carpet as a kind of traditional folk craft has completely different distinction from traditional folk craft in other regions, it is not a kind of demising traditional folk arts and crafts, but a new craftsmanship with vitality under the new situation, mainly because it has its important national consumption value and economic value, social value, and the carpet culture changes slightly in production level, consumption level, and cultural level, which provides new opportunities for the development of Hotan carpet. Hotan carpet industry needs to focus on these changes, transform these changes into consumption psychology, strengthen the consumption demand, and provide continuous, strong power into the development of Hotan carpets, only in this way can they play a positive role in protecting the Hotan carpet.更多还原