【作者】 于晓坤；

【导师】 张文斌；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2014， 博士

【摘要】 文胸是女性日常基础内衣之一,具有支撑、保护和美化女性胸部的功能。肩带是其重要组成部分,其最主要且最基本的作用是提拉乳房,塑造女性胸部曲线。文胸穿着合体是女性在社交场合中应遵从的一种社交礼仪,体现出女性的文明素养和知性美。但当文胸设计不合理或穿着不适体时,经常导致“肩带滑落”的尴尬境地,肩带过紧还易造成颈部和背部疼痛,严重的还可导致文胸综合征。文胸穿着舒适性问题引起广大女性和相关研究工作者的重视。本文围绕文胸肩带功能需求分析、肩带拉伸性能特点、功能分析设计等展开了以下五个方面的研究,并取得相应研究成果。(1)文胸肩带功能需求分析以文胸肩带功能需求分析为目的设计、开展问卷调查研究,从文胸及肩带的选购偏好、穿着习惯、洗护情况三个方面入手,深入调查广大女性消费者对于肩带功能设计的需求,并分析影响肩带穿着功能的可能因素。结合肩带的穿着和使用特点,探讨并提出了肩带功能需求的三个方面：提拉塑型作用、防滑功能、压力舒适。从肩带的款式造型、物理特征、使用特点、拉伸性能等角度分析讨论了各肩带功能的影响因素,并探讨了各穿着功能及其影响因素间的关系。(2)肩带拉伸性能测试与疲劳表征研究肩带的拉伸弹性和耐疲劳性能对于肩带穿着功能需求均产生不容忽视的影响作用,肩带的疲劳现象及其引发的问题也引起了女性的注意,但鲜见关于肩带拉伸性能和疲劳表征的探讨与研究。本文选取锦纶/乳胶丝混纺的典型肩带试样,进行拉伸断裂实验和定身长反复拉伸实验,测量肩带的强伸性能指标、断裂功指标、有效弹性终点指标,以及肩带的弹性回复率和塑型变形率,并通过方差分析、相关分析等探讨分析肩带拉伸性能特点。在确定文胸肩带的有效弹性终点时,本文基于肩带拉伸曲线特征,结合曼列狄斯(Meredith)法确定纤维屈服点的作图过程,对文胸肩带的有效弹性终点进行了创新设计：在肩带拉伸曲线上作出坐标原点和断裂点连线的平行线,并与拉伸曲线的转折区域相切,该切点即为肩带的有效弹性终点。本文参考物理学中关于过程量(描述物质系统状态变化过程的物理量)的定义,创新提出了肩带弹性回复率衰变量△εn(%)和塑性变形率积累量△Gn(%)的定义,用以描述肩带在反复拉伸后,弹性回复率和塑性变形率的变化特征,其数值大小表征弹性回复率衰变、塑性变形率积累过程的缓急。经配对样本均值检验,验证了弹性回复率衰变量△εn(%)和塑性变形率积累量△Gn(%)的定义具有实际意义。经相关分析论证了肩带弹性回复率衰变量△εn(%)和塑性变形率积累量△Gn(%)可表征肩带的坚牢度和耐久性能的优劣。(3)肩带提拉塑型功能研究针对肩带对乳房的提拉塑型功能设计着装实验。参照人体测量特征点提取表征肩带对胸部提拉塑型效果的测量参数,量化肩带对胸部的提拉塑型效果。选取肩带的造型宽度、肩带与文胸连接的位置,以及肩带穿着的伸长率为控制因子设计析因实验,并对肩带穿着压力感、胸部提拉塑型效果、总体舒适性进行主观评价。对比裸胸和穿着文胸不系扣肩带时胸部特征变量测量值,发现文胸罩杯和围带对乳房具有支撑塑型作用；对比不系扣肩带和根据各伸长率水平系扣肩带后胸部特征变量测量值,发现肩带对乳房具有显著的提拉塑型作用。应用多因素方差分析,检验实验中各控制变量对胸部特征变量的作用效果,结果显示肩带伸长率是影响胸部特征变量变差的主要因素。通过对主观评价变量进行方差分析,发现在相同的穿着条件下,肩带宽度越大,其产生的穿着压力感更容易被感知。肩带的伸长率对穿着压力感和总体舒适性感知影响显著,肩带伸长率各水平均引起了显著的压力不适感和总体不适感,与客观胸部特征变量的变化相比,主观感知变量更容易被感知。(4)肩带防滑功能与穿着稳定性的研究肩带滑落问题引起广大穿着者的不满,本文设计了系列穿着实验,探讨分析肩带穿着运动特点,及其防滑功能。选取肩带与文胸后比连接位置、肩带宽度、肩带伸长状态为控制变量,基于人体日常活动动作研究选取实验动作设计析因实验。测量肩带的穿着位置,计算实施各动作后肩带在肩斜方向的位移；测量受试者在实施各动作前、过程中、完成后的肩带沿体表的穿着长度。通过方差分析和多重比较检验分析肩带与文胸后比连接位置对肩带位移的影响,探讨改善肩带防滑功能的设计方法。由分析可知,向后中心方向调节肩带与文胸后比的连接位置可以有效地预防肩带滑落的趋势；增加肩带宽度有助于改善肩带穿着长度的稳定性；增加肩带的伸长率可有效改善肩带穿着稳定性；日常生活基本动作对肩带穿着稳定状态影响显著。(s)肩带拉伸性能与其穿着压力关系研究肩带自身的拉伸弹性影响其因形变而产生的内应力大小,肩带因拉伸形变产生的内应力作用于人体形成集束压,探讨肩带拉伸性能与其着装压力的关系,有助于研究肩带客观压力的变化规律。为了排除人体差异因素对肩带客观压力测量值的影响,本文首先设计了人台穿着肩带压力测量实验。根据人体肩部的骨骼和关节特征,选取了人台右侧肩带覆盖区域较有代表性的5个测量点进行实验；之后选取了一名与人台体型特征接近的女性标准体进行着装实验,测量人体上对应点的压力值。基于相关文献分析,选取肩带的弹性回复率建立其与人台着装压力的回归关系,回归拟合效果并不理想；本文创新提取了肩带定伸长反复拉伸实验中,肩带拉伸至定伸长时的松弛强力指标,应用回归分析探讨肩带松弛强力与人台穿着肩带压力测量值的定量关系,由回归方程显著性和方程拟合优度检验可知,回归方程的拟合效果较好,说明肩带松弛强力与压力值之间有较好的正线性相关关系,肩带松弛强力能够敏捷地反应由肩带拉伸形变而产生的束缚压力。更多还原

【Abstract】 The brassiere is one of the fundamental underwear for daily life, which is playing the vital role of supporting and protecting women’s breast. The strap, as one of the important components of a brassiere, can basically lift and shape the breast to a desired full curve. Being dressed in fitting brassiere with good comfort, women’s feminine shitsuke can be incisively and vividly shown in public social situations. However, they often encounter the embarrassed situation when the strap slipping off the shoulders if wearing unreasonable designed or discomfortable brassiere. Excessive pressure of strap can cause pains around neck and shoulders, and, a long time compression would even result in such symptoms as dizzy, nausea and so on. The comfortability of wearing brassiere has received public attention from women as well as researchers.Focusing on on the requirable functions analyses of strap, its tensile properties, and functional design for strap, this paper conducted investigative and experimental study in the following five aspects, and concluded some constructive and instructive progresses.(1) Analyses on functional requirements for bra strapFocusing on analyzing the functional reaquirements of bra strap, this paper firstly designed and conducted a questionnaire survey both on internet and via a site visit. The survey covering purchasing preference, wearing habits, washing and caring methods, which was designed to deeply investigate the specific requirements of general functions of bra strap, as well as, to find out the possible influence factors. Combined with the functional characteristics of the strap and wearers’ habits, three aspects of the specific functional requests had been extracted as lifting and shaping function, anti-slipping function, and pressure comfort. Some main factors and their relationships influencing the specific functional requests had been discussed in the aspects of the strap styles, physical properties, usage characteristics and mechanical tensile properties.(2) Foundamental study on tensile properties and fatigue characterization of bra strapThe tensile properties of bra strap and its fatigue characteristics were considered of the highly importance to discuss the general functions of bra strap. The strap’s fatigue phenomenon and its induced problems had attracted women’s concern. However, the study of tensile properties and fatigue characteristics of bra strap had never been documented in previous researches. In this thesis, seven types of strap typically made of polyamide blended with latex were selected as the samples. The stretching-fracture test and the test of repeatedly stretching to a fixed elongation were implemented to get some indicators of tensile property, fracture work and effective elastic point, as well as the elastic recovery rate and the index of plastic deformation of bra strap samples. The analysis of variance and the correlation analysis were combined to discuss the characteristics of tensile properties of bra strap.Basing on the tensile stress-strain curve of the sample strap, and taking a reference of the Meredith method to determine the yield point of fiber, a creative method was designed to determine the effective elastic point of the strap. On the tensile curve of strap, draw a parallel line nearby the line between the origin and the breaking point, and make sure that the parallel line is tangent to the turning segment of the tensile curve of strap. The point of tangency can be considered as the effective elastic point of the strap.Referring to the definition of quantity of progress in physics, the definitions of elastic recovery loss△εn(%) and plastic deformation accumulation△Gn(%) were innovatively proposed to describe the variable characteristics of elastic recovcry and plastic deformation of the strap after repeatedly stretching test. The amount of the elastic recovery loss and the plastic deformation accumulation can respectively character the changing speed of the loss of elastic recovery and the accumulation of plastic deformation. The paired sample tests were applied to prove that the definitions of elastic recovery loss△εn(%) and plastic deformation accumulation△Gn(%) were of statistically significance. By means of correlation analysis, the elastic recovery loss△εn(%) and the plastic deformation accumulation△Gn (%) of the strap were suggested that they could chatacter the fastness and durability of the strap.(3) Lifting and shaping function of bra strapFactorial wearer trial was specially designed to quantitively evaluate the breast lifting and shaping capability of bra strap. Referring to some anthropometric bones and joints, several measurements featuring the breast lifted and shaped effects were sclccted to quantify the lifting and shaping capability of the strap. The width of strap, its connected position onto the bra back and the stretching rate were selected as the controlled factories in the factorial design. Subjective ratings for wearing feelings such as wearing sensation of pressure, lifted and shaped effect of breast, and general comfort were rated in the wearer trial.By means of paired samples test, the anthropometric measurements were compared between the situations naked breast and in bra without strap. The test result indicated that the bra cup and band gave a fundamental support for women’s breast. Paired samples tests were also conducted to compare the measurements difference between the situation in bra without strap and that with strap in different extensions. The result suggested that the strap did have a lifting and shaping function for women’s breast. Multifactor analysis of variance suggested that the stretching rate of the strap was the main factor to cause the significant difference in the measurements featuring breast shape characteristics.The multifactor analysis of variance for the subjective ratings suggested that, in the same wearing conditions, the wider strap could cause more compressive sensation of pressure. The stretching rate of the strap was proved a key factor influencing the wearing sensation of pressure as well as general comfort, and the measurement difference was also proved to be significant between any two adjacent levels by means of multiple tests. Generally, the subjective sensation was more likely to be perceived than the objective measurement was detected with significant difference.(4) Anti-slipping function and wearing stability studyThe slipping problem of strap has aroused general dissatisfactory of the wearers. This paper designed a series of wearing trials to discuss the moving tendency of the strap and its anti-slipping function. The designed controlling variables were the connected position onto bra back of the strap, its widths, and its stretching rates. The initial wearing position on wearer’s shoulder were recorded as the observed variables. The displacement of strap were calculated to rate the movement of strap during the trial. The strap’s length covering body surface was also measured during the process of doing the designated activities. The analysis of variance and multiple tests were combined to discuss how the connected positions of the strap onto bra back effect the moving tendency of strap, and how to develop the new methods to improve the anti-slipping function of the strap. It can be concluded that the connected position onto bra back of the strap designed closer to the central back can effectively prevent the strap slipping off the shoulder. Some valuable suggestions can also be concluded from the analysis as following: the wider strap can cause less length change of the strap itself after finishing the activities; the bigger extension of the strap in daily wearing can improve the wearing stabilization of the strap; the daily basic activities can significantly affect the balanced wearing situation of the strap, then the strap would slip off the shoulder as a result.(5) The relationship between the tensile properties of bra strap and its pressure on bodyThe tensile properties of the strap itself can directly influence the inner stress caused by its elongation. The inner stress of strap by elongation will thereby turn into the compressive pressure on body. Therefore, the study of the relationship between the tensile properties of bra strap and its pressure on body can contribute to analyze the characteristics of pressure variations. In order to eliminate the effects caused by body difference on the pressure measurements, a mannequin was used firstly to get objective pressure measurements. According to the characteristics of bones and joins of human shoulder, five typical points covered by strap on the right side of mannequin were determined as the measuring points. One subject whose figure was very closer to the standard figure was also invited to do the pressure measurement trial. The corresponding pressure at the designed measuring points was analyzed to compare the difference between the mannequin and human body.Basing on the previous study, this paper analyzed the regression relation between the elastic recovery and the pressure on mannequin. But the fitting effects of regression were not satisfacted. The relaxed stress of the strap when it was stretched to a certain elongation was creatively designed as the independent variable to discuss its quantitative relationship with the pressure on mannequin. According to the results of significance test of regression equation and the test of goodness of fit, the significant linear relationship existed between the relaxed stress and pressure measurement. The relaxed stress of the strap had also been proved sensitive to reflect the change in compressive pressure by elongation.更多还原