【作者】 徐铮；

【导师】 赵丰；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2014， 博士

【摘要】 中国古代的丝织业源远流长,形成了一个稳定的技术体系。近代以来,西方的丝织技术开始影响我国,特别是民国时期(1912-1949),随着新型织机、原材料和工艺的引进和应用,中国丝织业逐步完成了近代化的进程,催生出我国第一批近代丝织企业,形成了一个与传统体系截然不同的近代丝织技术体系,丝织物特别是使用机器生产的丝织物其品类之繁多,品名之滥觞,图案之丰富,代表了当时中国丝织业的最高水平,并为当代丝绸的发展奠定了良好的基础。然而,相对于民国丝绸业在整个中国丝绸业的重要地位而言,综观20世纪以来有关民国时期机器丝织品种和图案研究的学术史,现有的研究多是从经济史、社会史或者某一单一的角度出发,可以说,迄今为止,还没有一本系统论述民国时期丝织物的著作。因此,本文力图对此进行一次基本而全面的阐述,这也是本文在学术意义上重要的一个首创性。本文选取最能代表民国时期丝绸生产发展特点的一个特殊片断——机器梭织丝织物(使用机器动力织机生产的丝织物,包括全人造丝织物和其他交织织物等)作为研究对象,对尽可能多的实物进行组织结构和图案分析,并将实物研究和文献资料整理及历史研究作为本文在研究方法上的两大支柱。在此基础上,本文还力图通过比较研究和分类的方法,将实物分析的结果与现存的图像、文献资料进行比对,通过科学实验与资料论证相结合来探讨机器丝织物的品种结构类型及定名体系、机器丝织物图案设计特点等问题,力求在研究过程中做到考据和论证并重。而归纳整理的方法除了应用在各阶段性的研究过程外,还体现在整体研究的连贯与整合上,从而达到从艺术史和技术史两个不同的角度对民国时期中国,特别是环太湖流域机器丝织物品种和图案进行全面研究的最终目的。本文的主要研究内容如下：第一、在文献整理和今人研究成果研析的基础上,介绍了近代丝织企业群的崛起,及不同类型企业在织物品种和图案生产上的不同特点。同时,重点分析了丝织业实现机器生产的近代化进程在时间维度上不同阶段的发展特点,以及在空间维度上,存在于地区之间和行业结构内部的不平衡性。并得出除了原料和织造技术的革新是传统丝织业实现近代化进程,达到机器化生产要求的技术支撑外,电力供应和当地丝织业人士对新事物的接受程度也是造成机器化生产发展不平衡的重要因素之一的结论。第二、针对近代机器丝织物命名分类混乱的情况,在实物资料分析的基础上,结合相关文献史料的比对和论证,从纺织考古学的角度,并借鉴当代丝织物十四大类的分类方法,以织物表层的组织结构和外观特征为依据,提出了较为科学合理的机器丝织物分类标准,根据经纬线间的交错方法将其分为平行类织物、绞经类织物、起绒类织物三个大类。其中平行类织物以平纹、缎纹、斜纹等组织为基础,包括了纺绸、绫、缎、绡、绉等延用传统的品种小类,以及绨、葛、呢、像景等新出现的品种小类；绞经类织物以绞纱组织为基础,包括纱织物和罗织物两个品种小类；起绒类织物以起绒组织为基础。通过各品种小类结构特点和组织设计方法的分析,得出结论,这个时期的机器丝织物品种呈现出以下三个特点：组织结构多样性变化、经纬原料差异性利用、传统产品提升性继承。第三、以实物资料分析为基础,本着整体概况和细节深入的原则,采用将实物、文献、图像进行综合研究的方式,将当时机器丝织物的图案分为自然图案、几何图案、人物风景图案和器物图案四个大类,就其题材类型和设计方法,以及与织物组织设计间的相互关系进行深入研究。指出在近代染织设计体系初步建立的背景下,受到西方文化和表现技法的影响,这个时期的机器丝织物图案呈现出题材风格多元化、写实造型立体化、表现形式多样化的发展特点。第四、作为机器丝织物的重要组成部分,织物字牌一向为研究者所忽视,本文结合实物分析和文献研究,对其款式和内容展开详细阐述,并与传统丝织物中织款的异同进行横向比较。同时,从技术角度对字牌的生产工艺进行探讨,指出副目板工艺的运用打破了正身和字牌部分的经线的相同运动规律,这也是促进“中心独花式”端式字牌大量应用的原因所在。第五、除整体分析外,本文选取民国时期机器丝织业史上最大的近代企业之一上海美亚织绸厂为研究对象,在分析大量档案材料的基础上,从企业崛起和发展历程、产品生产管理和设计人才培养制度以及特有的设计委员会决策制度等几个方面对其进行个案研究,并重点就中国丝绸博物馆收藏的美亚厂样本讨论其机器丝织物品种以及字牌生产的特点。在综合了上述研究的基础上,本文指出当时影响机器丝织物品种和图案发展的因素是多方面的,许多新产品和新图案是在多方面因素的综合作用下产生的。而其中技术因素是最为重要的,纺织原料、生产工具、练染技术等各种因素的改进和发展,特别是贾卡式提花机、棒刀装置和人造丝的应用,以及对输入欧美丝织物的仿制大大地扩展了丝织物品种和图案的类型范围。同时,作为一个高度商业化的社会,商业竞争和市场需求也成为影响机器丝织物发展的主导因素。厂家为了取得高额商业利润,必须促使产品在品种和图案上不断改进更新,而要达到此种目的,必须采用新型的织机和原料,同时,部分不能满足当时人们审美趣味的旧品种、旧图案也逐步被市场淘汰,这从客观上推动了丝织业实现机器生产的近代化进程。更多还原

【Abstract】 Silk-producing has a long history in China and had formed a stable technical system in ancient times. However, from1840the traditional system began to be influenced by western silk industry, especially in the period of Republic of China (1912-1949). As modern looms, materials and techniques were introduced and applied, silk industry in China had gradually been modernized and the first batch of modern silk-producing factories was established and a new silk technical system, which was totally different from the traditional one, was formed. Silks, especially silks produced by modern machine, which represented the highest level of Chinese silk-producing at that time and had laid a good foundation for further development of Chinese silk industry, were abundant in categories, items and patterns. Although silk industry in the Republic period plays an important role in the whole Chinese silk industry history, the research of the silk of the Republic period (from20th century to now) mainly focuses only on specific points, such as economic history, social history, etc., and no research has been done specially on industrial silks. Therefore, the dissertation tries to make a fundamental and comprehensive discuss about the categories and patterns of industrial silks in the Republic of China, which would be a groundbreaking in an academic sense.Industrial silks (silks produced by modern machine, also including pure rayon textiles or others, which best represent silks in the Republic period) are studied in this dissertation, with a focus on categories and patterns. Silks and historical documents are two great bases of this dissertation. On that basis, the dissertation tries to compare some factors of silks, pattern for instance, with existing images and records in documents by comparative studies, and to explore several issues such as categories, structures, name system, characteristics in pattern designing etc. by comparing the results of scientific experiments with historical documents. In addition, induction method is used in each research stage, thus it is able to undertake a comprehensive study from the perspectives of both art history and technology history about industrial silks in China, especially in areas around Taihu Lake Basin.The main contents of this dissertation are as follows: First of all, on the basis of reviewing the records in documents and the researches done by present scholars, the dissertation introduces the rise of Chinese modern silk enterprises and the characteristics of silks produced by different factories in categories and patterns. Meanwhile, more emphasis is put on the characteristics of silk industry modernization in different stages and the imbalance between regions and in silk industry. And the dissertation points out that innovations in materials and weaving technology which had achieved the technical requirements for machinery and facilitated in the modernization, enough electric power supply and the acceptance of new things among people in local silk industry are also vital to the imbalance.Secondly, based on the analysis of silks, according to their weave structures and appearance features, and with reference to records in historical documents and modern classification methods, industrial silks are divided into three kinds:silks woven with straight warps and wefts, silks woven with crossing ends/doup ends and fixed ends within a fixed structure, and silks in a warp-pile weave with pile warps raised in loops by rods above a ground weave. The first kind includes traditional categories such as pongee, twill damask, satin damask, chiffon, crepe, and also new categories like Ti (silk-cotton products). Ge (bengaline), Ni (matelasse), woven photograph etc. The second usually refers to gauze and leno, and the third kind is generally known as velvet. Generally speaking, industrial silks in this period have upgraded from traditional silks, being diverse in weave structures and using warps and wefts.Thirdly, basic on a comprehensive study of silks, documents and images, the dissertation divides the patterns on industrial silks into four groups:naturalistic patterns, geometric patterns, the patterns of figures and landscapes, and the patterns of artifacts, then makes further studies on the motives, design methods and the relationship between the pattern and weave structure. It shows that patterns on industrial silks in this period have three characteristics:being more various in motives, more three-dimensional in presentation and more abundant in shapes.Fourthly, the dissertation discuses the style and content of industrial silks’Zipai (woven inscription), and compares them with traditional ones. Moreover, based on the discussion of the design and technique of Zipai, the dissertation points out that techniques applied in accessorial comber boards is an innovation for the arrangement of warps in main part is different from that in the inscription part, and this innovation leads to the flourishing of "Central Independent Pattern" woven inscription.Lastly, the dissertation picks Shanghai Meiya Silk Factory-the biggest modern silk enterprise in this period, as a case study, analyzing its developing process, production management, designers’training system, and designer committee decision-making system, and puts more focus on the samples of Meiya Silk Factory in the China National Silk Museum collection, exploring their categories and analyzing the features of the production of Zipai.In conclusion, the dissertation points out that there are many impact factors of the development of categories and patterns of industrial silk textiles, among which, technology is the most important factor. The improvement and development of raw materials, production tools, dyeing technology and other factors, especially the application of Jacquard loom, bannister shaft, and rayon, greatly expanded the range of categories and patterns of silks. Meanwhile, business competition and market demand have become dominant factors affecting the development of industrial silks in a highly commercialized society. For higher profits, manufacturers needed to constantly promote the categories and patterns of textiles, therefore they have to apply modern new looms and materials, and abandon outdated categories and patterns. Those were also facilitating the modernization of machine production.更多还原