【作者】 刘丽娴；

【导师】 刘晓刚；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2013， 博士

【摘要】 本文通过学科交叉与借鉴的研究方法,基于品牌模式的分析与品牌战略、战术角度的思考,探讨目前我国定制服装品牌的定位与设计方法,构建了基于动态多维定位的定制服装品牌设计模式。本文具体研究内容如下：一、定制服装品牌模式的分类以业务模式、经营模式、盈利模式、服务模式为核心维度,将定制服装品牌模式分为三类：1.以高级定制为主营业务的定制服装品牌模式；2.基于成衣品牌业务延伸的定制服装品牌模式；3.基于技术创新的大规模定制服装品牌模式。通过比对分析说明三类定制服装品牌模式的区别,从而界定本文研究的对象与范围。二、定制服装品牌的发展现状与设计理论研究首先,分析中国定制服装业的发展与市场现状；其次,归纳定制服装品牌的价值：人文价值、符号价值、新式奢侈、经济价值、产品价值；最后,总结定制服装品牌的特点：品牌历史悠久、品牌产品精良、品牌技艺稀缺、品牌服务全面,从而对定制服装品牌在运作、设计等方面的特殊性有所认识。借鉴三维空间概念,将定制服装品牌的三维设计界定为：基于品牌运作视角,从三个不同的设计角度(整合设计、标准设计、系统设计)来归纳定制服装品牌设计方法。以个体需求动机为驱动力,以品牌战略为内在支撑点,实现定制服装品牌的三维设计集成,从而架构定制服装品牌设计模式的三维设计子模块。三、定制服装品牌动态多维定位体系的建立本文归纳出定制服装品牌定位的结构特征：系统性结构特征、多层次结构特征、动态性结构特征。结合定制服装品牌的特殊性,分析定制服装品牌动态多维定位体系的关键内容：1.定制服装品牌的定位点选择。借鉴定位点理论的核心思想,将品牌定位点视为定制服装品牌动态多维定位体系的核心内容,根据目标消费者的需求特征,基于三个标准(目标顾客关注、优于竞争对手、真实可信)选择相应的利益、价值、属性定位点。明确定制服装品牌的主定位点、次定位点与平均水平点,并将其应用到品牌营销要素组合的各项内容中。2.定制服装品牌的核心要素识别。通过对现有文献及三类访谈结果的整理,建立定制服装品牌要素评价体系,分为定制服装品牌形象、定制服装品牌产品、品牌定制服务、定制服装品牌市场网络4个二级指标及相关的19个三级指标,初步构建了定制服装品牌评价要素指标的递阶层次结构。基于定制服装品牌要素评价体系,根据最终合成的权重划分定制服装品牌要素的三个层次,其中位于核心层的要素为：店员服务、售后服务、做工。品牌要素层次的划分帮助企业识别品牌的核心设计点。3.定制服装品牌消费者的核心定制需求界定。以地理变量、人口变量、心理变量、行为变量为细分变量,对问卷数据进行频数统计与聚类分析,识别定制服装品牌的主流消费群体,并归纳三类主要定制需求：特体定制需求、商务社交定制需求、婚庆定制需求。定制服装品牌的动态多维定位体系可分解为以下三个步骤：1.定制服装品牌的动态定位过程。即对五个主要定位维度(消费者、竞争对手、企业自身、宏观环境、行业)进行跟踪分析；2.定制服装品牌的定位点选取过程。即基于定制服装消费者对各个营销组合要素的需求,选择品牌相应的利益定位点、价值定位点与属性定位点；3.定制服装品牌的核心定位点选取与应用过程。即选取定制服装品牌的主定位点、次定位点和平均水平点,并应用到营销要素组合(产品、价格、促销、渠道)中。本文综合上述三个步骤实现定制服装品牌动态多维定位体系的建立。四、定制服装品牌设计模式的提出与应用研究本文将定制服装品牌的设计模式定义为：基于品牌运营角度,根据所选择的定制服装品牌定位点,考虑定制服装品牌模式和设计模式特殊性,以目标消费者与品牌接触点为设计对象的设计方法和品牌问题解决方案。根据定制服装品牌模式与设计模式的对应分析,界定本文研究的设计模式是以基于成衣品牌业务延伸的定制服装子品牌为对象提出的设计方法与问题解决方案。探讨本文研究设计模式的三方面构成特点：品牌战略战术配合特点、模块化结构特点、立体空间关系特点。基于对模块化思想与钻石定位理论的借鉴,从设计模式的横向构成、纵向构成、复合构成角度分析,将定制服装品牌设计模式分解为以下四个子模块：1.定制服装品牌的三维设计子模块；2.定制服装品牌的动态多维定位子模块；3.定制服装品牌的要素分层子模块；4.定制服装品牌的营销要素组合子模块。并通过模块分解细化定制服装品牌设计模式的步骤与内容。以国内某成衣品牌的定制服装子品牌为例,针对该定制服装子品牌现阶段遇到的主要问题提出以下四项讨论命题：1.设计模式的应用与品牌销售额间是否存在正相关关系；2.设计模式的应用与品牌消费者培育间是否存在正相关关系；3.设计模式的应用与品牌定制周期的有效缩短是否存在正相关关系；4.设计模式的应用与品牌差异化定位的实现是否存在正相关关系。通过定制服装品牌设计模式的应用,以销售额指标、满意度指标、专家评价指标为设计模式应用效果的显性与隐性指标,将除设计模式以外的其他品牌要素设定为不变因素,证明本文所研究的设计模式对品牌盈利水平的提高、消费者满意度的提升,定制周期的缩短、差异化定位的实现均起到积极作用。证明定制服装品牌设计模式的应用有助于解决该品牌现阶段遇到的主要问题,对销售额与消费者满意度的提升起到了积极作用,有助于品牌的准确定位与各项营销战略战术的制定与展开。本文创新点主要体现在以下方面：一、完成以品牌模式分析为基础的定制服装品牌分类本文将经营模式、业务模式、服务模式、盈利模式界定为定制服装品牌模式的核心维度,以此为划分指标,将定制服装品牌分为以下三类：1.以高级定制为主营业务的定制服装品牌；2.基于成衣品牌业务延伸的定制服装品牌；3.基于技术创新的大规模定制服装品牌。二、建立定制服装品牌动态多维定位体系结合动态定位理论与定位点理论的相关内容,归纳定制服装品牌的三种定位结构特征：系统性结构特征、多层次结构特征、动态性结构特征,提出定制服装品牌定位点的概念,并从利益、价值、属性定位点的角度探讨定制服装品牌定位点选取的内容与方法。将定制服装品牌的动态多维定位体系分解为以下三个步骤：1.品牌的动态定位过程；2.品牌定位点的选取过程；3.品牌核心定位点的识别与应用过程。通过上述三个步骤的完成实现定制服装品牌动态多维定位体系的建立。三、构建定制服装品牌设计模式本文提出了基于动态多维定位的定制服装品牌设计模式,将设计模式分解为纵向构成、横向构成和复合构成部分。借鉴模块化思想与钻石图定位模型的研究成果,从功能模块与结构模块的分析视角将该设计模式分解为以下四个子模块：1.定制服装品牌的三维设计子模块；2.定制服装品牌的动态多维定位子模块；3.定制服装品牌的要素分层子模块；4.定制服装品牌的营销要素组合子模块,并研究出设计模式完成的步骤与基本方法。更多还原

【Abstract】 This article through the methods of subject crossover and experience assimilation to study contemporary domestic fashion customization brand and it’s positioning procedure, design method. Basing on consideration about brand model analysis and brand strategic application, domestic fashion made-to-order brand dynamic and multi-dimensional positioning system and design model can be constructed.Relevant study can be classified to several parts, they are as follows.1. Fashion customization brand model classificationDeeming business model, operation model, benefit model and service model as the core dimensions to classify fashion customization brand model to three main kinds. First one is the high-end fashion customization brand, which focused only on high-end market, based on handcraft’s workshop. Second one is the customization sub-brand of the successful ready-to-wear brand, which is a member of the whole brand family, offering made-to-order product or service to target customer. Third one is the mass customization fashion brand, which based on digital technology and assembly producing line. Moreover, through comparison and analysis, the distinctions of these three main kinds fashion customization brand models are obviously.2. Fashion customization brand development status and design theory studyBasing on domestic fashion made-to-order industry and regional analysis, the general status of fashion customization industry can be described. The core value of fashion customization brand can be summarized as that, they are humanism value, symbol value, new style luxury value, economic value, and product value. Characteristics of fashion customization brand can be extracted and purified accompany with that, they are long brand history, exiguous brand product, delicate brand craftsmanship, considerate brand service, and other distinguishing features (personal driving, customization experience direction, brand strategy coordination). Three dimensional design theory can be put forward, core contents of that are integrated design, standardize design and systematic design.3. The dynamic multi-dimensional positioning system of fashion customization brandThe dynamic multi-dimensional positioning system of fashion customization brand can be disassembled into several concrete steps. Step one is about the procedure of brand dynamic positioning. The main dimensions are consumer, competitor, and company itself. The sub-dimensions are macro environment and industry surroundings. Useful information can be acquired from these dimensions constantly. Step two is the procedure of brand positioning point selection. According to the motivation analysis and main needs of customization consumer, through the viewpoint of benefit, value, and attribute positioning points to finish this positioning point choosing. That is not only the content, but also the pathway. Step three is to identify the brand core positioning point. Basing on brand positioning point, study composited four marketing mix elements to realize the combination of brand strategy and tactic. Brand main point, sub-main point and average point can be decided finally.4. Construction and application study of fashion customization brand design modelThis article summarize the concept of fashion customization brand design model as a problem solving proposal, which based on the view point of brand operation, according to the brand specific positioning point, considering the specialty of customization brand model and design model. After corresponding analysis, the study be directed against to customization sub-brand only. Supporting theories of fashion customization brand design model are as follow. First one, modular theory rooted from contemporary mechanism design theory. Second one, diamond positioning model comes from modern marketing positioning theory. This article multiple construction fashion customization brand design model, it can be subdivided into four sub-models. They are three dimensional design sub-model; dynamic multi-dimensional positioning sub-model; brand elements hierarchical structure sub-model; and fashion customization brand marketing mix composition sub-model. To select representative fashion customization brand as study object, and to analyze the problem brand facing. Using customer satisfaction, sales volume, expert appraisement as the evaluation indexes to prove the function of fashion customization design model.The creative points of this study are as follow.1. Fashion customization brand classification according to brand model analysis be introduced first timeFashion customization brand can be classified into three main kinds based on brand model analysis. First one is the high-end fashion customization brand. Second one is the customization sub-brand of the successful ready-to-wear brand. Third one is the mass customization fashion brand.2. The dynamic multi-dimensional positioning system of fashion customization brand is builtCombining with relevant theory of dynamic positioning model and diamond positioning model, three positioning constructional characteristics are summarized. Those are systematic, multi-level and dynamic characters. Positioning point concept is introduced, which is made sure through the procedure of benefit, value and attribute positioning point finding. And recombination of positioning procedure and method, fashion made-to-order brand dynamic multi-dimensional positioning system can be sorted out.3. The construction of fashion customization brand design modelPaper put forwards fashion customization brand design model, which based on dynamic multi-dimensional positioning system. This design model can be disintegrated by horizontal part, vertical part and compound part. Vertical part presents positioning process, horizontal part means positioning content, triangular part equals positioning scope. After combination of these three parts, composition of brand design model is finished. Modular design theory and diamond positioning model are used for reference. After functional model and structure model analysis, design model is divided into four sub-models, which are as follow, three dimensional design sub-model; dynamic multi-dimensional positioning sub-model; brand elements hierarchical structure sub-model; fashion customization brand marketing mix composition sub-model. Then study the step by step procedure and application function of fashion customization brand design model.更多还原