【作者】 潘春宇；

【导师】 高卫东；

【作者基本信息】 江南大学 ， 纺织工程， 2013， 博士

【摘要】 本文首先提出了偶发性色彩的定义，偶发性色彩是指在创作生成时因偶然因素的介入导致色彩自由生发，呈现形象消散、分布不匀、层次错叠的开放性色彩现象；给出了偶发性色彩的命名依据和它的主要内涵，指出偶发性色彩与传统色彩研究体系的研究差异不仅在于开放性的最终效果，也包括其自由生发的中间过程和导致这一现象发生的偶发因素介入；并从自然层面、心理层面和社会层面，提出偶发性色彩创作的主要来源是对自然偶发的借鉴、对主观意识的表现和对主流观念的反叛。按照“再现—再现结合表现—表现—表现结合再现”的推进关系，本文列举了西方哲学、史学、艺术和工学领域中与偶发性观念和色彩相关的主要人物、事件，将偶发性色彩的创作过程划分为经验积累阶段、理论准备阶段、实践验证阶段、概念深化阶段以及图式创新阶段等五个阶段。在比较中发现中国偶发性色彩创作具有意识的先觉性与思路的独立性，而近代以来两次中西文化的密集互动是中国现代偶发性色彩创作发展的主要动力。通过对偶发性色彩面貌特征进行主观和客观评价研究，本文提出了针对偶发性色彩的组合式表征方案，包括以下三种方法：（1）基于传统色彩研究体系色相、明度和纯度三要素的色度学表征方法，侧重于描述偶发性色彩中连续而无规律的过渡色域；（2）基于偶发性色彩在整个色彩空间中呈现的形状、分布、层次与动态状况的形态学表征方法，侧重于描述其色彩形态秩序关系，而空间运动、时间进程和情绪波动会对偶发性色彩的创作与判别产生决定性影响；（3）基于色彩分布均匀度分析的统计学表征方法，通过试验对偶发性色彩样本进行聚类采集与分布均匀度分析，得到其对于偶发性色彩的客观评价方法。以表征指标为依据，偶发性色彩创作实践可以被划分为四类：基于传统媒介的扩散型偶发性色彩和分层型偶发性色彩；基于现代媒介的应激型偶发性色彩和运算型偶发性色彩；并分析了各种偶发性色彩类型的呈色机理，指出不同类型偶发性色彩的表现特色与设计创作重点。本文指出了构建偶发性色彩创新设计模式理论的意义，归纳了偶发性色彩创新设计模式的基本特征和基本构架：策划准备阶段、介入激发阶段、自由生发阶段、色彩呈现阶段；分别建立了基于传统媒介和现代媒介的两种偶发性色彩创新设计模式，搭建了各自的框线结构图，并分析了其构成要素和结构特征。本文最后结合纺织面料加工工艺、现代纺织技术与相关研究领域的进展，运用偶发性色彩的创新设计模式理论，提出了三类纺织面料产品的创新设计方法：（1）基于扩散型偶发性色彩的蓝印花布工艺与泼染技术结合的印染织物开发、（2）基于分层型偶发性色彩的段染技术与剪绒技术结合的剪绒织物开发、（3）基于运算型、应激型偶发性色彩的分形色彩设计与其他技术相结合的综合型织物开发，对纺织面料中体现偶发性色彩创新的生产技术难点进行了研究，提出了各类型偶发性色彩应用于纺织面料设计的后续研究方向，实践了偶发性色彩创新设计模式对纺织面料开发的指导。更多还原

【Abstract】 This thesis defines the definition of “Happening Color” and the basis of its name,pointed out that the main connotation and sources. Respectively, from the natural level, thepsychological and social level, summarized the basis of Happening Color is Objectivefindings、Awareness of conflict and Groups treason. The Happening Color research focusesincluding not only its ultimate effect of the open, more important is the freedom germinalintermediate process and incidental factors leading to the occurrence of this phenomenonintervention.The thesis then enumerates the science, arts and humanities area that related to theHappening Color or happening concept, in accordance with the logic advancing relations of"reproduction-reproduction combined performance-performance-performance combinedreproduction", divides the western Happening Color creative practice process into naturaldiscovery phase, theoretical preparation stage, consciously innovative stage freedominnovation stage and contemporary new plan stage; Compared the characteristic of theChinese Happening Color and happening concept, summarized that the Chinese traditionalHappening Color has the foresight consciousness and independence, and modern two timescentralized interaction of Chinese and Western cultures are the main driving forces of theChinese modern Happening Color creation.On this basis, from three levels, the thesis gives subjective and objective description ofthe face characteristics of Happening Color and modular description program for theHappening Color characteristics that obtained:(1)Make three elements of the color as thebasic indicators, focus on the classic hue, lightness and purity indicators in the description ofthe nonlinear transition gamut of continuous without law on the Happening Color works;(2)Present the shape,distributed, hierarchical and dynamic situation of the color in the entirespace as morphological index, pointed out that the shape, distribution and the level of orderand balance are the focal point of its description, however,space motion, time movement andmood swings make a decisive impact on the occasional color creation and judgment;(3)Usethe uniformity of color distribution analysis of computer-based technology as auxiliaryindicators, data collection and analysis of samples by the experimental, gets the objectivedescription in the application for the occasional color value and the current problems.Then,based on the above description of indicators,the Happening Color practice isdivided into four types: the diffusional Happening Color and stratified Happening Color basedon traditional materials and techniques as the main coloring medium; the stressed HappeningColor and operational happening color with modern multimedia and new media as the main color medium. Analyze the various types of forming mechanism and characteristics, point outthe different types of sporadic color research focus and the possible pitfalls on study.Discussesed the necessity of the innovation model of Happening Color, build out theHappening Color innovation model based on the traditional media and modern media, and setup the model structure wireframe, comparative analysis the basic characteristics of theinnovation model of Happening Color, summed up the Happening Color innovation modelgeneral stages: Plan preparation phase, the incidental factors involved excitation stage, freegrowth stage and the generate and emergence stage. The thesis establishes two types ofHappening Color creative design mode based on traditional media and modern media, builtthe frame line chart respectively, and analyzes its elements and structure feature.Finally, combined with the progress of textile materials processing technology, moderntextile technology and the related research fields, using the creative design model ofHappening Color, gets three kinds of the innovation design methods for textile products:(1)the dyeing fabric development based on the combination with the diffusion type of HappeningColor in the Blue Calico printing technology and dyeing splash dyeing technology,(2) theshearing fabric development based on the combination with the hierarchical Happening Colorin segment dyeing technology and cutting technology,(3) the fabric development based on thecombination with the operational Happening Color in the design of comprehensive color andother technology. From the studies of the technical difficulties in producing textile fabrics ofcreative Happening Color, propose the future research direction in every type of HappeningColor used in textile fabric design, practice the guidance of the creative design model forHappening Color on textile fabric development.更多还原