【作者】 萧颖娴；

【导师】 吴海燕； 宋建明； 郑巨欣；

【作者基本信息】 中国美术学院 ， 设计艺术学， 2013， 博士

【副题名】“可持续”理念对时装产业发展之影响及设计人才培养之应对

【摘要】 进入21世纪，人类社会的可持续发展已经成为一项极为紧迫的课题，“可持续时装设计”必然会在重建人类良性的生态家园的过程中发挥重要的作用。“可持续时装设计”作为一个时代的设计命题的形成，反映的是更为深刻的时代背景与社会背景，它所涉及的不仅仅是设计形式、设计方法，更重要的是设计观念的根本变革。本文从解析“可持续”的基本概念与内涵开始，并概述“可持续设计”理念的意义及由来，以“可持续”意识为脉络对工业革命前后时装的发展历程进行梳理，强调中国时装产业在全球化背景下正视“可持续设计”问题的重要性与急迫性。笔者围绕后工业社会新型结构下“可持续时装设计”概念的植入与传播方式，探讨与之相适应的社会行为方式，以及在它影响下设计师和消费者各自角色和行动范围发生的变化，总结其对西方服装产业所产生的影响，提出了未来发展的预见。本文通过以中国传统循环观为出发点的“从摇篮到摇篮”的工艺生态圈概念，明晰“可持续”时装循环产业链，并沿着产业链各环节，对设计师角色及行动范围的变化脉络展开论述，探讨设计师的兼具“设计者”、“策划与管理参与者”和“教育者”的新角色作用。在全球化的宏观背景下，面对环境资源问题和设计教育的挑战，通过对中外相关领域的观察和思考，笔者尝试提出知识整合和设计教育创新的核心思路。在探讨“可持续”时装设计教育的同时，笔者提出“可持续”理念作用下的未来时装设计教育模式的构成：1）以普及概念为主导的本科教育、2）注重“可持续时装设计”新研究发展的研究院，以及3）以推进设计可行性实验及经济效益考量为宗旨的校企合作。以上三者间高度的整合和互动意味着更大的机会来实现为时装产业未来变革培养和储备相应设计人才的目标。更多还原

【Abstract】 The sustainable development has been becoming an extremely urgent task in the21st Century. Amidthis specific background, the sustainable fashion industry is expected to play a key role in the process ofreconstructing eco-environment as an integral part of the world’s sustainability efforts. As a newindustrial concept, the sustainable fashion involves not only the renovated form of design, but also thenew design methods, which generates from a profound mix of both scientific and social origins, and,more importantly, the transformation of fundamental design value.This paper starts with an introduction of the overall concepts, history and significance of research ofsustainability and sustainable design. From a comparative research angel, the paper goes through thedevelopment process of sustainable clothing across the world, and stresses China’s focus on building upa fashion industry that addresses the importance and urgency of "sustainable design" in the context ofglobalization.Furthermore, the paper studies the evolution of the concept of "sustainable fashion design” along withthe evolution of post-industrial society, and discusses the methods of implanting and disseminating theconcept, aiming at exploring the best-fitting social behaviors as well as the new roles and “action space”for both designer and consumer underlining the changes in industries and societies. By summarizingthe impact of sustainable development over the Western apparel industry, the paper also endeavors toprovide logical predictions for the industry’s future..The paper discusses the building of the eco-fashion system, which bears the “from cradle to cradle”features, based on the Chinese traditional thoughts of circulation. The writer advocates introducing the“circulation model” into the industry, in order to build up a sustainable fashion industry chain; and looksinto the changes in designer’s role parallel to the renovation at each link of the industry chain. In thesustainable industry chain to be developed, the designer will be required to become a co-decision makerand educator, in addition to its original function as designer.The writer proposed a new structure of future fashion design education against the sustainabilitybackground, which includes1) undergraduate programs aiming at promoting the specific concepts,2)in-campus research institution focusing on sustainable fashion design, and3) cooperation between theenterprises and academic space in order to improve both the feasibility of new designs and economicefficiency. As all the three factors above get more integrated and interactive to each other, we will havebetter chance to develop new designer catering for the future evolution in fashion industry.更多还原