【作者】 王运利；

【导师】 徐卫林；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2012， 博士

【摘要】 棉织物具有吸湿、透气,手感柔软、舒适,不易起静电等许多优异的性能,长期以来一直深受消费者的欢迎和喜爱。但棉织物在穿着过程中容易产生折皱,洗涤后需经熨烫才可继续穿着,保形性差,弹性差,严重影响了织物的外观和服用性能。对棉织物进行防皱整理是提高其防皱性能的主要途径。棉织物经常规的轧烘焙(PDC)工艺防皱整理以后,织物的防皱性能获得了显著的提高,同时对织物的其它性能产生了一系列影响,如织物强力显著下降、手感发硬、吸湿透气性能变差等,严重影响到织物的服用性能和风格。另外,经PDC工艺整理的织物,由于在整理过程中是对织物整体浸渍整理液进行处理,使织物两面具有同样的防皱效果。整理后的织物在穿着服用过程中,与皮肤直接接触的一面经化学药剂改性处理,可能会对人身体健康造成危害。通过分析涤/棉混纺织物认为,只要织物中含有部分具有良好拉伸回复性能的纤维,就可提高织物的防皱性能,同时,可有效改善由于传统防皱整理带来的织物品质变差的问题。从而,整个实验的落脚点在于,降低织物中防皱成分的含量,改善产品的综合性能。即对棉纤维制品进行局部防皱处理,而不是传统意义上的织物整体防皱加工。从实际的可操作性角度考虑,将经过防皱改性的纤维与原棉纤维混纺、防皱纱与原棉纱交织、对织物单面整理等处理方式,是实现这一设想的有效途径。160s纯棉高支纱经防皱预处理,然后将预处理纱与未处理的原纱按一定比例加捻复合成为两股及四股线,再对它们进行延迟焙烘处理。研究发现经预处理和焙烘后的单纱及股线在断裂强力、断裂伸长率、断裂时间及断裂功等几个方面,具有相似的变化规律。用设计的方法测试了纱线的折皱回复角,经延迟焙烘处理以后,纱线的折皱回复角及弯曲刚度有所提高,增加幅度与纱线中预处理纱的含量基本呈正相关关系。红外光谱(FTIR)、广角X衍射(WXRD)及元素分析表明,预处理纱经焙烘以后,整理剂与纤维大分子间发生了共价交联反应,但不会影响纤维的结晶结构。棉纤维在防皱处理前后的外观形貌没有发生明显变化,仍为原来扁平的扭曲带状。预处理棉纱经焙烘交联以后,棉纤维的热降解稳定性较原纱及预处理纱有所提高,而预处理纱与原纱相比差别不大。通过对160s纯棉高支纱的防皱合股线性能研究,使人们认识和了解到防皱单纱对股线性能的影响。文中研究了纺织的最初原料——棉纤维的防皱性能。经防皱预处理的棉纤维在不同的温度和时间下干热处理后,其断裂比强度(BSTR)基本随比折皱回复角(BWRA)的增大而减小。在低温烘燥时,温度和时间对BWRA及BSTR的影响较小,高温焙烘时,温度和时间的影响增大；整理剂浓度对棉束纤维防皱性能的影响不大,催化剂用量影响显著。棉纤维经预处理后与原棉纤维混纺,形成同质异性混纺防皱纱(以下简称为“混纺纱”),在延迟焙烘以后,随纱线中防皱纤维含量的增大,混纺纱的折皱回复角(WRA)增大,断裂强度(STR)减小,它们呈负相关性；并且,混纺纱的断裂伸长率、断裂时间和断裂功等也基本随纱线中防皱纤维含量的增大而减小。对焙烘后纱线的红外光谱及元素分析表明,随纱线中防皱纤维含量的增加,交联作用变强,纱线中氮元素含量增大；WXRD分析表明,焙烘后纱线的晶型没有变化,结晶度总体呈下降趋势；纱线焙烘后的耐热性较焙烘前有所提高,受纱线中防皱纤维含量的影响不大。这些结果表明,实验室中可以顺利纺出混纺纱,其性能与纱线中预处理纤维的含量关系密切。工厂实验表明,棉纤维的防皱预处理不会影响纤维的可纺性和纺制纱的上机织造,这点对于整个生产过程至关重要。对工厂试织的三种织物在不同的温度和时间下干热处理,结果表明延迟焙烘温度、时间、防皱纤维含量等因素对织物最终的防皱性能都会产生一定的影响。对100%预处理织物水洗后再焙烘,织物的防皱效果较差；延迟焙烘处理使织物的退浆、染色性能变差,而退浆、染色过程对织物防皱效果的影响不大；延迟焙烘处理提高了织物的丝光效果,但丝光降低了织物的防皱性能。由此可见,混纺防皱的加工方式在理论和实践上都具有可行性。树脂整理剂PS-14、催化剂2-氨基乙磺酸(2AESA)和海藻酸钠具有良好的相容性,可将它们调制在一起形成印浆,对棉织物进行单面印浆防皱整理,收到了一定的处理效果,表明实验思路切实可行。由红外光谱、pH值等实验,研究了2AESA作为防皱整理催化剂的催化机理,结果表明催化历程符合酸催化机理。对单面印浆防皱整理前后织物的正反两面进行了衰减全反射红外光谱(ATR-FTIR)、元素含量、WXRD、扫描电子显微镜(SEM)等的测试分析,研究了它们的微观结构。单面印浆防皱整理织物的正反面与原棉织物在耐磨性、静电性能及透湿性等应用性能方面存在着不同的差异,经整理的一面基本都有所下降。超声波雾化器可以将实验中用到的整理剂、催化剂等化学药品均匀稳定地雾化出来,雾化液中药剂的含量及成分与雾化残液及溶液本体基本相同,表明超声雾化的整理方式在原理上是可行的。织物的润湿性在单面雾化整理过程中非常重要,可根据实验要求选择润湿性合适的织物进行单面雾化整理。织物的雾化带液率随雾化时间的延长而增大,长时间雾化后,雾化液会透过织物,形成双面整理的效果。对纯棉织物的单面雾化防皱整理实验结果表明,整理后织物的WRA与STR基本呈负相关性,当雾化液透过织物形成双面整理时,织物的STR下降迅速,WRA的变化过程总体比较平稳。经ATR-FTIR、元素含量、WXRD及SEM等分析表明,整理前后织物两面的微观结构差异性不是十分显著,可能与整理剂向织物反面的渗透有关。单面雾化防皱整理织物的正反两面与整理前织物相比,耐磨性、静电性能及透湿性等性能基本都发生了不同程度的下降。更多还原

【Abstract】 Cotton fabric has been favoring by consumer for a long time due to its excellent properties such as hydrophilicity, breathability, soft handle, comfort, antistatic property, etc. However, the appearance and wearability of cotton clothing will be greatly affected when crease on the surface of the fabric forms due to the awkward shape retentiveness and elasticity of cotton fiber. Frequent ironing must be applied after washing so as to regain its wearability. In this regard, anti-creasing finishing must be applied to cotton fabric to improve its crease resistance.Conventional Pad-Dry-Cure (PDC) anti-creasing finishing has been used to grant the fabric with excellent crease resistance, but side effects emerged at the same time when deteriorated strength, stiffer hand and bad moisture and vapor transferring properties were noticed during use. Another concern stands in the hazard of chemicals on the surface of the fabric that will contact skin; the chemicals are uploaded when both sides of the fabric are immersed in the solution during the treatment. Crease resistance can also be achieved by adding crease resistant fibers into the yarn of the fabric. A good example of this is the Polyester/Cotton blend fabric in which polyester serves as the crease resistant parts. This method not only brings the fabric with crease resistance but also hardly affect the original properties of the as-treated fabric. Therefore, the aim of experiment is to reduce the content of anti-creasing composition so as to improve the overall performances of the fabric. A partial crease resistant treatment was conducted instead of anti-creasing treatment to the whole fabric. To this purpose, it will be more practical to conduct blending of anti-crease component into the spinning and weaving process and one side finishing of fabric.In experiment, high count cotton yarn (160s) was pre-treated by anti-creasing, and then plied into2-plying yarn and4-plying yarn by twisting the pre-treating yarn and original yarns according to different proportion followed by a delayed-curing process. It was found that there was a similar variation to pre-treated and cured single yarn and plying yarn in breaking strength, elongation at break, breaking time, and work of fracture. Wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) of yarn was also measured. WRA and bending rigidity of yarn increased after delayed-curing, and the increase showed a positive correlation to the content of pre-treating yarn. FTIR, WXRD, and elemental analysis showed that the covalent crosslink reacted between finishing agent and fiber macromoleculars after curing the pre-treating yarn, but the crystal structure of the fibers was unchanged. The the flat and twisty ribbon morphology of cotton fiber didn’t change much after treatment. To pre-treating cotton yam after crosslinking, the thermal degradation stability of cotton fiber in yarn enhanced than that of the original yarn and pre-treating yarn, while the difference was little when compared pre-treating yarn with the original yarn. The effect of anti-creasing yarn on the properties of plied yarn has been realized through studying anti-creasing and plying properties of160s high count cotton yarn.The anti-creasing properties of cotton fibers as the original textile material were studied in this paper. BSTR decreased as the BWRA increased for the anti-creasing pre-treated cotton bundles after the dry-heating under different temperatures with various treating time. Such factors as temperature and time had a lower influence on BWRA and BSTR during the low temperature treatment than that during the high high temperature curing. Finishing agent concentration had a slight effect on the anti-creasing property of cotton bundles, while catalyst amount had a significant influence on the anti-creasing property of cotton bundles.The homogenous anisotropic blending anti-creasing yarn was produced by the blend spinning of pre-treated and original cotton fibers (which was denoted as blending yarn). After delayed curing, the blending yarn showed an increased WRA and a decreased STR as the anti-creasing fiber content increased; specifically, there was a negative correlation between WRA and STR. Furthermore, breaking elongation, breaking time, and breaking work of blending yarn were all decreased as the anti-creasing fiber content decreased in the yarn. Results of FTIR and elemental analysis showed that the cross-linkage intensified and N content enhanced as the anti-creasing fiber content increased in the cured yarn. XRD showed that the crystallinity reduced without any change in crystal structure for the fibers in cured yam; thermal stabilities were improved after curing for yarns with various anti-creasing fiber contents. These results indicated that the blending yarn could be spun successfully in laboratory and its anti-creasing performance was closely related to the content of pretreated fibers in the yarn.The experiment in factory showed that, the anti-creasing pre-treatment of cotton fiber didn’t affect the fiber spinningy and weaving abilities, this was essential to the whole production process. The three woven fabrics were dry-heat treated under different temperatures with different time. The results indicated that the curing temperature, curing time, and the anti-creasing fiber content in yam had an effect on anti-creasing properties of fabric.100%pre-treating fabrics after washing and curing, the anti-creasing effect of fabric was poor; delayed curing treatment decreased the desizing and dyeing performance of fabric, whereas the influence of desizing and dyeing on anti-creasing property of fabric was little; delayed curing treatment enhanced the mercerizing effect of fabric, while mercerizing treatment deduced anti-creasing property of fabric. This suggested that interpenetrating anti-creasing process was feasible in theory and in practice.PS-14,2AESA and sodium alginate had good compatibility, and they could be mixed together to conduct a single-sided anti-creasing finish for cotton fabric through printing pulp, indicting that the idea was feasible. By FTIR and pH data, the anti-creasing catalytic mechanism of2AESA as catalyst was studied, and results showed that the catalytic course was consistent with the acid-catalyzed mechanism. Both positive and negative faces of the finishing fabric with ATR-FTIR, elemental content, WXRD and SEM were measured to study their micro-structures. Both positive and negative faces of the finishing fabric in abrasion performance, antistatic property and moisture penetrability had certain differences, and the finishing face basically declined.Ultrasonic atomizer could uniformly and stably atomize chemicals, and the content and composition of the atomized liquid kept the same with the solution of residue and the originally solution, which could indicate that the ultrasonic atomized finishing was feasible in principle. Fabric wettability was very important during the ultrasonic finishing process, and wettability could be selected according to the experimental requirements. The pick-up of fabric increased with prolonged atomized time. After long time atomization, the atomized liquid could permeate the fabric to form the double-sided finishing. The results of ultrasonic atomized finishing showed that the WRA and STR was basically negative correlation. When the atomized liquid permeated the fabric to form the double-sided finish, STR declined rapidly, while the change of WRA was stable in the whole process. ATR-FTIR, elemental content, WXRD and SEM analysis showed that both positive and negative faces of the finishing fabric were not very distinct in micro-structures before and after finishing. This might be due to permeability of the finishing agent. Compared with the original fabric, the abrasion performance, antistatic property and moisture penetrability of both faces of the finishing fabric had declined at different extents.更多还原