【作者】 谭赛花；

【导师】 陈勇；

【作者基本信息】 武汉大学 ， 世界史， 2009， 博士

【摘要】 在16－18世纪，英国人的着装发生了很大变化。贵族的服饰经历了四个风格迥异的发展阶段：16世纪夸耀式的奢华；1603－1660年低调的华丽；复辟时期奢华与简约风格相互冲突；18世纪男装的简约与女装再度奢华。社会中下层人们竭力摆脱政府的种种禁令，着装的风格不再局限于简单实用，服饰的质地逐渐变得柔软舒适，颜色也随之丰富起来。服饰既是国王塑造王权的工具，又是议会向王权斗争的有力武器。因此，服饰的变化与政治变革有着密切的联系。宫廷服饰在都铎时期极度奢华，“光荣革命”后变得黯淡无光，展现着英国王权的兴衰。内战前夕，清教徒激烈批判宫廷服饰，为反王权情绪的形成制造舆论。内战期间，“新模范军”的实用军服，使战争双方着装差异明显，加速了战争的胜利。“光荣革命”后，议会成员摈弃宫廷的奢华服饰，穿上简约大方的服装，从而树立起新的道德形象，有利于议会统治的巩固。无论国王还是议会，都代表着贵族阶层的利益。贵族可以依据政治统治的需要，更换奢华或简约的服饰。而普通大众着装的变化，主要依赖于社会经济的发展。经济的发展能改善服饰的质地、丰富其色彩、降低其价格。反过来，服饰的变化促进了英国经济的发展。17、18世纪之交，人们对印度棉布的狂热，刺激了英国本土棉纺织业的兴起。而市场对廉价成衣的需求大增，推动了手工工场成衣制造业的发展。然而，社会中下层人们着装的改善，使服饰体现等级和身份的功能减弱，对社会等级秩序造成冲击。虽然抑奢法明确规定各等级人们服饰的质地和颜色，但是社会中下层人们总是跨越等级界线而着装，挑战着上层社会的权威。女仆购买新装，男仆出售制服，弱化了主人的权威。子女并非总是遵循父辈的着装习惯，父辈的权威也受到挑战。一部分社会中下层妇女无视教会的训诫和法庭的惩罚，依然穿上男装，使男性权威受到一定的威胁。无论人们选择何种服饰，都受到当时社会思想观念的影响。清教徒抑奢观念的传播，使内战前后人们的服饰相对内敛。而18世纪崇奢观念的流行，使英国社会掀起消费奢侈服饰的热潮。当然，人们着装的变化也会促成某些思想观念。16、17世纪，一部分社会中下层人们追求进口服饰，不但造成大量黄金外流，不利于传统毛纺织业的发展，而且破坏了等级秩序。追求奢侈服饰被视作一种不道德不爱国的行为，抑奢成为当时社会的正统观念。总之，16－18世纪人们着装的变化，是英国社会政治、经济、等级结构和思想观念的变迁综合作用的结果。其中，经济的发展对人们着装的变化起着决定性影响。服饰作为一种基本物质资料，或政治斗争的武器，或身份等级的象征，或思想观念的表达，它的变化又反作用于社会多方面的变迁。更多还原

【Abstract】 During the16^thand18^thcenturies, dress of the English people changed a lot. Thestyle of noble’s dress experienced four different phases: blatant luxury in the16^thcentury; careless flamboyance from1603to1660; collision between luxury andconciseness through the Restoration; simple men’s wear and gorgeous noblewomen’sapparel in the18^thcentury. People in the middle and lower ranks did their best to freethemselves from the sumptuary laws. The style of common people’s dress was nolonger just simple or practical. Their costumes became more and more soft,comfortable and colorful.Attire was not only the instrument for kings to exercise their power, but also theeffective weapon for the parliament to fight against the royal authority. Therefore,changes of dress were closely related to political transformation. The court dress wasluxurious to the utmost during the Tudor period, and became dim after the GloriousRevolution, which reflected the rise and fall of the royal power. Before the Civil War,the Puritan intensely criticized the court dress to make public voice against the royalty.During the civil war, owning to the military uniform of the New Model Army, it waseasy to tell Parliamentarians from Royalists, which had accelerated the victory of theParliament won the war quickly. In order to set up a new moral image, after theGlorious Revolution, the members of the parliament spurned the luxurious court attireand dressed succinctly.Both the king and parliament were on behalf of the interest of nobility.Noblemen could change their luxurious or succinct costumes according to the needsof political rule, whereas changes of common people’s dress were mainly due toeconomic growth. Development of economy not only improved the fabric of dress,but also made it more colorful and cheaper. In return, changes of dress promotedBritish economic interests. At the turn of the17thand18^thcenturies, the craziness forIndian cotton stimulated the rise of cotton industry in England, and the great demandfor cheap ready-made clothes boosted the business of dressmaking in large workshops.However, that the common people dressed better made it difficult to distinguishpeople according their clothing, which had an impact on social hierarchy. Althoughsumptuary laws definitely stated the fabric and color of apparel for each rank, peoplein the middle and lower ranks always violated the laws and challenged the authorityof upper class. The maid bought new clothes and manservant sold uniforms, whichweakened their masters’ authority. Adolescents did not always imitate the elder’scostume, which challenged their authority too. And ignoring ecclesiastical admonitionand judicial punishment, some women still dressed like the man, which alsothreatened the male dominance.Whenever people chose certain dress, they were affected by the contemporarysocial ideas. With the spread of Puritan’s sumptuary idea, people dressed relativelysimple before and after the Civil War. But when the notion of fancy for luxury becameprevalent in the18^thcentury, an upsurge for extravagant clothing was emerging inEngland. To be certain, changes of dress formed some social ideas as well. In the16^thand17thcenturies, some people from lower rank pursued imported apparel, which notonly led to outflow of gold, did harm to the development of traditional wool industry,but also broke the social hierarchy. Pursuing luxurious dress was regarded to beimmoral and unpatriotic, so restraint on luxury became an orthodox concept inEngland at that time.In conclusion, changes of people’s costume in England during the16^thand18^thcenturies were affected by the vicissitudes of political, economic and social hierarchyand ideas, among which economic development played a decisive part. As a basicphysical material, a weapon of political struggle, a symbol of social status or anexpression of social ideas, changes of costume also had effects on the transformationof aspects of the society.更多还原