【作者】 吴爱琴；

【导师】 李玉洁；

【作者基本信息】 河南大学 ， 中国古代史， 2013， 博士

【摘要】 本文以服和饰为线索，从服的质料、形制、色彩、纹样及饰的种类、品质等方面入手，对先秦服饰等级制度的形成过程、特点及意义进行了深入系统的探讨。在论证中，力求文献资料的可靠性，考古材料的全面性。本文通过对服饰产生的缘由、演进过程的分析研究，结合民俗学及美学、心理学的资料，认为服的出现是基于实用基础之上，在保持生存的前提下逐渐衍生出其它功能，如装饰、等级等，随着阶级社会等级观念的加深，使用的差异性日趋明显；对饰的研究，主要是对近年来普遍发现的佩饰、首饰进行了全方位的梳理研究，根据其出土墓葬情况，结合时代背景来分析其使用的等级差异。认为饰的装饰功能随着阶级社会的建立而改变，和服一样成为“分贵贱、辨等威”的工具。新石器时代晚期考古资料显示，大型墓葬中出土有较多精美装饰品。这些饰品质地优良，做工精细，纹饰繁缛，无疑是当时最高手工艺水平的代表。权贵者对它的占有，表明服饰的功能发生转变，开始成为身份地位的标识物。夏至西周时期，服饰使用的差异更为突出。社会经济的发展，对服饰有极大的影响，使服饰的质料、色彩及佩饰、头饰等从质量到数量上都丰富起来。文献和考古材料都表现出夏商、西周时期，服饰在进入阶级社会后，其质料、色彩、纹样的使用都有了更为鲜明的差别。大贵族墓葬中出土有大量精美的头饰、项饰及胸饰等，而小型墓葬中的饰品数量少且质劣，有的无任何随葬品，说明贫富差别现象日益严重。西周时期，在冕服及佩饰的使用上，等级制度已经萌芽。春秋战国时期生产力迅速发展，制作技术大大提高，产品极大丰富，为人们服饰的选择提供了空间，同时也导致服饰的僭越滥用现象。统治阶级为稳固秩序，制定法律对服饰的质料、色彩、佩饰进行严格的规定，不准下层民众僭越。是时，标志人们身份的服饰等级制度，也就是服饰的礼制已经基本形成。礼服、丧服及戎服使用中制度表现最为明显，如礼服中的冕服及弁服的使用。此时，贵族社会中普遍服用的礼服玄端，是当时国家的法服。贵族与庶民之间的差别，以及天子、诸侯、卿大夫、士等贵族之间的等级差别，由于身份地位的不同，在礼仪场合所穿的礼服是完全不同的，必须根据他们的身份地位穿着不同等级的服饰。戎服是古代服饰研究中重要的组成部分，以往服饰制度研究中往往对此忽略。甲胄，即作战时穿着的具有防御性能的装备；戎服，将官士兵穿着的除铠甲外的其它衣着装饰，具有标明部队属性及个人身份的作用。本文对夏商周的戎服进行研究。据史料和考古发掘出土的铠甲及人物形象，分析各时期军队的服装及装备，对甲胄和戎服进行缕析：认为几千件仿实之作的秦兵俑集中反映了战国时期秦国森严的军戎服使用的等级情况。秦兵马俑的陶质兵士、马匹和木质战车组成的军阵，是秦国军事力量的真实写照。武士的铠甲和戎服形制，体现了兵俑的本来身份及在军中的地位，应是完全符合当时的情况。丧服制度也是服饰等级制度中重要组成部分。在丧服制度中，丧服形式以及服丧时间皆依据血缘和社会地位确定，表现出一种严格的贵贱与亲疏等级，体现出周代宗法等级的完全形成。丧服制度体现了以父权为中心的家庭等级关系、血缘亲疏关系、尊卑关系等，是贵贱等级与亲疏等级的结合，对社会秩序起到了稳固作用。服饰制度的形成及对后世有重要意义，服饰制度形成的社会条件、思想基础，是阶级社会发展的必然。服饰制度的形成代表了统治阶级的意志、是等级统治的有力工具。服饰制度对中国二千多年封建社会有重大影响，对人们思想有禁锢作用。更多还原

【Abstract】 This paper studies the pre‐Qin clothing system formation process, characteristics and significance. Complete for clues to the clothing and ornaments, mainly from the service of the material, types of shapes, colors, patterns and accessories, quality start, the depth of the formation of the hierarchy of the pre‐Qin costumes to show the hierarchy of the pre‐Qin costumes formation dynamic evolution. In the argument, and strive to the literature of reliability, comprehensiveness of archaeological material.In this paper, the reason of the costumes, the analysis of the evolution of research, combined with folklore and aesthetics, and the psychology that the emergence of the service is based on a practical basis, under the premise of maintaining the survival of the gradually derive other functions, such as decoration, grade, etc., with the deepening of the concept of class society level, the differences become more evident; decorated mainly carried out a comprehensive analysis combing commonly found in recent years, accessories, jewelry, according to its unearthed tombs the case, combined with the historical background to analyze the use of level differences. That adorn the decorative function change with the establishment of the classless society, the kimono as great alike, and distinguish Granville tool.Late Neolithic archaeological data, large tombs unearthed more exquisite decorations. These ornaments, fine texture, fine workmanship, harassment ornamentation, no doubt was the highest level of handicraft representatives. To its possession of the rich and powerful who shift, indicating that the function of clothing became a status markers.The summer solstice, the Western Zhou Dynasty costumes use the difference is more prominent. Socio‐economic development of the Xia and Shang to Western Zhou Dynasty costumes have great impact, dress material, color and accessories, headwear are enriched from quality to quantity.Literature and archaeological materials have shown the Xia and Shang, Western Zhou Dynasty, clothing class society, its material, colors, patterns of use have a more distinctive difference. Unearthed a large number of beautiful headdress, pendant and pectoral such as the tombs of great lords, and the number of small burial jewelry small and poor quality, some without any funerary objects, the growing gap between rich and poor phenomenon. Western Zhou Dynasty, use Mianfu and accessories, the caste system has been sprouting.Spring and Autumn Period costumes hierarchy basically formed. The rapid development of the Spring and Autumn productivity, greatly improving production technology, product greatly enriched, to provide a space for people in the choice of clothing material, color and accessories, phenomenon also led costumes Arrogation abuse. The ruling class solid order legislation, strict rules of dress material, color, accessories are not allowed to lower people transgression. Yes, the logo apparel hierarchy of people s identity, that is, the clothing of the ritual has basically formed.Dress costumes and Rong Fu grade the performance of the most obvious, such as dress in Mianfu Benten clothing. When aristocratic society generally taking dress mysterious end, was the nation s canonic. Difference between the aristocracy and the common people, and the difference of level between the kings, princes, Bureaucrats, disabilities and other nobles, due to the different status, worn in the ritual occasions Mianfu is completely different, must be based on their status dressed in the costumes of different grades.Rong Fu is an important part of the study of ancient costumes, often ignored in the past clothing system research. Armor, wearing combat defensive performance equipment; Rong Fu, generals, soldiers wearing addition to armor, clothing decoration, has marked the troops attributes and personal identity. In this paper, the Rong Fu of the Xia, Shang and Zhou study, and showed that the Qin Terracotta Warriors and Horses of clothing Rong Fu hierarchy of the Warring States period. Qin Terracotta Warriors and Horses of pottery soldiers, horses and wooden chariot military array, is a true portrayal of the military forces of the state of Qin. The samurai armor shapes, should be fully compliant with the situation at that time. According to the historical and archaeological excavations unearthed armor and figures, analysis of each period of military clothing and equipment; and armor and Rong Fu strand analysis: thousands of pieces of imitation false for Chi figurines epitomized the Warring States period Qin Guosen strict Army Rong Fu level.Important part of the mourning system is also a clothing hierarchy. In mourning regime, the mourning the form as well as the mourning time are determined based on kinship and social status, the actual performance of a strictly equal status with the intimacy level, reflect the Zhou Dynasty patriarchal hierarchy fully formed. Mourning system demonstrated the patriarchal family hierarchical relationships, kinship affiliation, pecking relationship, is a combination of high or low level of closeness rating, play a solid role in the social order.Costume System formation and the formation of social conditions on future generations significance, Costume System, the ideological foundation for the inevitable development of class society. The formation of the clothing system represents the will of the ruling class, is a powerful tool of class rule. Clothing system of two thousand years of feudal society in China have a significant impact on people s thinking imprisonment.更多还原