【作者】 滕兆媛；

【导师】 刘晓刚；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2012， 博士

【摘要】 本文立足于服装艺术设计学,以统计学、哲学、感性工学、数学以及计算机科学等学科交叉为主要研究手段,就目前我国服装设计尤其是色彩设计中存在的问题及其相关因素进行探讨。本文以男装为突破口,构建基于色彩设计因素的理论框架和应用平台,并将相关研究结果通过数字化技术实现。本研究分为四个部分：一、研究对象的概述性研究这部分研究内容,旨在阐述本研究立题的必要性和应用价值。本文基于目前国内服装产业和服装品牌在自主创新领域中存在的主要问题,针对色彩设计带来的显著经济效益和男装品牌的发展潜力,将两者结合作为本课题的研究对象。本文主旨立意深远,具体研究切合实际——切实解决品牌和设计师在产品开发过程中因色彩设计因素繁杂而过分依赖设计师经验所产生的诸多问题。本文通过前两章对研究对象的概述性分析,在整理统计了多组市场调研数据后,总结出色彩、男装以及设计因素的研究价值,并梳理出具有逻辑性的研究脉络。该部分不仅明确了本文的研究意义之所在,肯定了本课题高度的实践价值,对后续理论研究和应用分析也具有提纲挈领的重要作用。二、色彩设计因素的纵向研究该部分内容可以分成两大板块：理论研究和实践分析。前者针对服装色彩设计因素的分类依据、类别特点和相互关系进行纵向深度研究——首先,利用哲学中的三原结构理论和国学中的三才学说,将服装色彩设计因素的分类源头科学化、系统化,使其言之成理、言之有据,弥补了现有文献资料在这方面含混不清的问题,并创新性地总结了基于三类色彩设计因素外部关联的IDS原则——针对目前服装色彩设计实践提出合理的设计原则；其次,针对三类设计因素内部关系的特性和相互作用,利用AHP层次分析法(The Analytic Hierarchy Process)这种管理科学领域的经典方法,得出影响服装色彩设计权重最大的7个因素,该数据对后文进一步分析色彩设计因素具有决定性的作用。实践分析部分中,本文以男装为研究点,分析上述7种重要因素在男装色彩设计中的具体表现和实践作用,其中,在日本色彩研究所的P.C.C.S色彩体系中分析得到的风格色域以及各因素的风格特点等成果,对后文进行设计因素的横向研究起到了关键的连接作用。三、色彩设计因素的横向研究通过纵向分析,文中得到了7种设计因素,风格色域以及各类因素的特点等结论。基于此,在横向分析环节中,本研究展开了两部分内容：模糊理论的因素隶属分析和色彩心理学成果的应用分析。前者采用模糊理论的常规方法,对各类因素的风格隶属度进行了科学分析,得到了八种男装风格所的设计因素范围；后者根据目前感性工学的研究现状和成果,将日本色彩与设计研究所开发的NCD语义和配色形象空间引入到服装色彩设计因素研究中,通过创新性地比对研究P.C.C.S风格色域和NCD两大空间,探索并建立了以男装为例的色彩形象空间。上述两部分,通过环境因素中的服装风格,构建起配色、语义、风格、因素之间的等质交换空间,不仅完成了服装色彩研究的横纵交叉模式,也为色彩设计因素的应用研究部分奠定了基础。四、色彩设计因素的应用研究本文将该部分内容分为针对性研究和整合性研究两大板块：前者结合男装色彩形象空间的成果,在辅助服装品牌产品企划、建立品牌色彩形象系统以及优化品牌色彩设计流程三方面进行了应用分析。针对性应用的研究目的旨在通过色彩设计因素的全面分析成果,从理论、方法、原则等角度减少品牌各部门之间的沟通环节,并提升后期设计工作的效率,使服装品牌在进行产品色彩设计时,较好地把握专属品牌风格,恰当地结合流行时尚的变化并满足目标消费群的色彩诉求。整合性应用是从辅助工具的角度出发,开发以设计因素为基础的服装色彩设计软件,该软件以男式衬衫为素材库,通过因素选择模块和自由设计模块的有序结合,在理性地限定用户操作范围的同时,最大限度地发挥和实现用户的设计创意。上述两方面的因素应用,体现出理论上横纵交叉的系统性,应用上从方法到工具的全面性,是系统理论和全面实践的高度结合。本文的创新点主要体现在以下方面：一、对色彩设计因素的纵向研究。在哲学三元结构理论和中国古代三才学说的启发下,系统地将服装色彩设计因素总结为环境因素、服饰因素和个性因素三类。针对三类因素外部关联的特点,创造性地归纳出具有针对性的色彩设计IDS原则及其三大状态以及各状态内部色彩设计所需面对的问题和解决方法。针对三类因素的内部特点,创新性地将普遍应用于管理科学领域的AHP层次分析法引入到以感性经验为主要设计方法的服装色彩设计中,通过分析专家意见,结合AHP分析方法,提取了影响服装色彩设计的7个重要因素。二、对色彩设计因素的横向研究。结合男装色彩的设计特点,创新性地将普遍应用于计算机领域的蒙赛尔色彩面积调和理论应用于男装色彩设计中,通过分析服装的图形特点并利用AutoCAD测量其面积,对实践中出现的问题及解决方案进行了深入探索。利用模糊理论和感性工学的研究成果,通过P.C.C.S色彩体系和NCD意象空间的异同,比对研究了以男装风格为的环境因素,构建起了配色、语义、风格、因素之间的等质交换空间。三、对色彩设计因素的应用研究。以环境因素、个性因素和服饰因素为开发逻辑,整合色彩设计因素的横纵交叉分析成果,通过针对性应用和整合性应用两方面的分析,实现了以设计因素为核心的色彩设计数字化操作平台,体现了理论上的成果在应用方法和应用工具层面上的双赢。更多还原

【Abstract】 This article is based on the apparel art to explore the problems of China fashion design, especially in the color design and its related factors by using interdisciplinary method of statistics, Kansei engineering, mathematics and computer science. This paper takes men’s clothing as a breakpoint to construct a theoretical framework and the digital platform, it also achieved those research results through digital technology. The study can be divided into four parts:1. An overview research of the objectThis part of the study aims to explain the necessity and value of the title. The paper based on not only the main problems in the field of innovation of domestic apparel industry and apparel brand, but also significant economic benefits by color design and development potential of men’s brand, the above parts can be taken as a combination of the study. The purpose of this paper shows a far-reaching practical, which is an effectively solution of over-reliance on the designer experience in the product development process that because of the complicated factors of color design. After collection of market research data and overview of the study analysis, the article summed up the research value of color, men’s apparel as well as design factors, and sorted of the logic of research context. That part is not only clear the significance of where the highly practical value of this project, and also has an important role of the follow-up theoretical and applied analysis.2. Vertical study of color design factorsThe contents can be divided into two sections:theoretical study and practical analysis. The former carried vertical depth research for classification, category characteristics and the relationship of color design factors. Firstly, the paper combined ternary structure theory and the ternary doctrine to make the source of classification scientifically and systematically, as a result, it made up blank of existing literature. Moreover, the study summed up the principle of IDS, which is based on external associated of three types color design factors and aimed for guiding apparel color design practice in reason. Secondly, the paper used of AHP Analytical Hierarchy Process (The Analytic Hierarchy Process), that was classic way of management science to research the characteristics and interaction of internal relations of color design factors three types, and came to the maximum weight seven factors, which have a decisive role in further analysis. The part of practice analysis took the men’s apparel as the point to analyze the specific performance and practice of the seven factors, among them, study achievements of style gamut analysis in the P.C.C.S of the Japan Color Research Institute and factors characteristics of style, played a key role in horizontal study of color design factors.3. Horizontal study of color design factorsThe article draws the conclusions of the seven factors weight, the characteristics of the style, and color gamut and a variety of factors. Based on that, this part included two sections:the analysis of fuzzy theory and Kansei engineering. The former used fuzzy theory such kind conventional method to analysis membership of various factors in style, then got eight men’s style range of design factors; the latter according to the status and results of Kansei engineering-----semantics and color image space, which developed by Nippon Color and Design Research Institute to introduce to study of apparel color design factors, through an innovative way of contrast research by PCCS and NCD to establish a color image space for men’s apparel. Those two parts built swap space of color, semantics, style and factors through clothing styles in the environmental factors, those results not only complete the clothing color of the vertical and horizontal cross-mode, but also lay the foundation for color design factors applied research.4. Application study of color design factorsThis part’s contents are divided into two plates of targeted research and integration research: the former combined with the results of the men’s color image space, analysis auxiliary clothing brand planning, brand color image system and optimize the brand color design process. Targeted research aimed at reduce the communication link between various departments of the brand, improve the efficiency of post-design work to assistant color design and keep the brand’s style, as well as meet the color demands of the target consumer group by comprehensive analysis of the achievements in color design factors research. The integrated application took the view of assistant tool to develop apparel color design software based on design factors. Men’s shirt was considered as material library of the software. The tool limited the user’s operating range rational, but at the same time, it can maximize the user’s creativity by orderly combination of modules and free design module. The application of those two sectors reflected cross-systemic of theory study and a high degree of integration of system theory and the comprehensive practice.Innovation of this paper:1. Vertical study of color design factors. The paper summarized apparel color design factors of environmental factors clothing factors and personality factors, which inspired by the ancient Chinese theory of three powers, and based on the integration of literature. Based on external associated of three types color design factors, it summarized the three state services of men’s color design. The paper drew innovatively the AHP, which widely used in the field of management into men’s apparel color design. By analyzing experts’advice suggestions of men’s apparel color design factors and combines with the AHP, it is extracted the first7parameters.2. Horizontal study of color design factors. It introduced innovatively Munsell color area theory into men’s apparel color design which is based mostly by perceptual experience. By analyzing the characteristics of such clothing graphic characteristics and measuring the area by AutoCAD, it solved the problem of empiricism and fanaticism in men’s brand’s color design, and provides feasible program for the men’s garment. By using of similarities and differences between P.C.C.S color system and NCD image space to analyze rational application in-depth of color based on men’s style. Confirmed men’s eight basic types of style by representative colors of the typical brands in the P.C.C.S and used the common of two systems in terms of Hue&Tone system to determine the men’s main style of semantic and color range by comparing and positioning.3. Application study of color design factors. The paper achieved the digital platform through vertical and horizontal cross-analysis results and the development logic of the environmental factors, individuality factors and dress factors. Those showed a win-win situation of theoretical results and application of methods.更多还原