【作者】 段杏元；

【导师】 于伟东；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2012， 博士

【摘要】 塑形内衣的功能及舒适性一直是人们普遍关注的问题。塑形内衣功能的实现很大程度上是依赖其结构设计和材料选择完成的,而结构设计是最基础的,其取决于对人体尺寸和适应性的研究。本课题以塑形内衣中的文胸为研究对象,通过对两个不同年龄段女性穿着现有品牌文胸的塑形效果进行对比分析,由此发现现有文胸设计上的不足,以此对文胸进行结构上的调整与改进设计,探讨了文胸的舒适性和改进效果。课题首先从研究文胸的基础纸样入手,以文化式原型为基础进行变化,形成适合文胸设计所需要的紧身原型,并阐述了该原型纸样的合理性及可应用性。同时,在研究75B人台胸部省量的基础上提出了胸部省量的分配设计的合理性及其在文胸结构设计变化上的应用,为文胸的结构调整与改进做了铺垫。其次,对现有品牌文胸进行了调查分析和实测比较,确定了所调查地区主要文胸号型的分布及主要的罩杯款式；对欧迪芬、古今、安莉芳文胸的结构参数做了比较,并对年龄在18-25岁的未婚青年女性及26-35岁已婚育青年女性穿着此三种文胸的效果进行了对比分析和评价。实测结果及分析表明：①三种文胸结构参数的同异性在于：三种文胸的上奶杯长有较大差异,内奶杯长差异不明显,心位宽都较小,差别不大,后背距及下摆长则差异较大；②两个不同年龄段女性在穿着文胸后各指标间存在着差异,提出了此三种文胸设计上的不足,即由于不同年龄段女性胸部形态不同,而现有文胸在设计时并没有年龄上的明确区分,尤其是青年女性,因此导致罩杯形态与胸部形态不能完全吻合,从而对塑形效果产生了影响；③由于文胸款式造型及材料的影响,使得文胸在人体运动跟随性及塑形保持性上还存在不适应和不稳定的问题。再次,通过对两个不同年龄段女性胸部形态的实测比较,指出26-35岁已婚育青年女性胸部形态更加丰满,但同时胸部出现了下垂的倾向,因此该年龄段女性更需要通过合适的塑形内衣对其胸部形态进行调节。为此,建立了年龄在26-35岁已婚育青年女性胸部形态的回归模型,并针对该年龄段女性对现有针对18-25岁的未婚青年女性的胸部形态的数学模型进行了验证,结果表明该数学模型对26-35岁已婚育青年女性是适用的。在此基础上推导计算了26-35岁已婚育青年女性胸部省量。以此为基础通过省量的分配设计对文胸的结构设计进行调整和改进,共设计了8款不同造型的罩杯纸样。对8款罩杯文胸进行了塑形效果的穿着实验,得出了塑形效果较好的文胸结构。较之现有品牌文胸大多依赖经验丰富的技术人员对穿着效果进行主观判断而言,此设计更具科学性和实用价值。最后,对文胸的压感舒适性及其它如热湿舒适性和接触舒适性进行了探索研究。主要从主观评价与客观测量两方面对压感舒适性进行了研究。分析了影响文胸穿着舒适性的因素,并对所测各点压力感与压力值之间的关系进行了分析,以此为基础对各点客观压力的舒适性范围进行了探讨。并进一步从文胸结构、材料弹性和受力分析对文胸穿着过程中出现的不稳定问题作了分析,结果表明材料的力学变形及弹性模量是影响肩带滑落、罩杯上移的主要因素。研究中还对文胸的接触舒适性及热湿舒适性的有关方面进行了主观评价,主要从刺扎感、柔软感、湿热感、湿冷感、闷热感、粘体感、总体舒适感7各方面进行了测量及评价,这7个方面主要与材料的性能有关。研究指出运动对文胸的湿热感、闷热感及粘体感的影响最大。更多还原

【Abstract】 The function and comfort of modeling underwear is very important to people. The function of shaping underwear is connected with its structure design closely, and the structure design is based on the researching on body size and adaptability. This research is on bra. Through the comparative analysis on shaping effect of existing brand bra to two different age female groups, it pointed out the deficiency of existing bra. Based on above, the structure design of bra is adjusted and improved, and the comfort is discussed further.Firstly, the research is started with the designing of basic pattern of bra. The bodice prototype fitted to bra design is formed based on transformation of culture pattern. At the same time, it studied the breast dart on 75B body model and discussed the rationality of breast dart distribution, and it put forward the application of breast dart distribution in bra structure design. This part is provided for the adjustment and improvement of bra structure design later.Secondly, it investigated to existing bra and compared to the structure parameters of three main brand bra through actual measurement and analysis, and illustrated the main bra size distribution and main bra cup style in investigated area. Based on above, it analyzed and estimated on the wearing effect of three brand bra to aged 18-25 years old unmarried female and 26-35 years old married and have child female, and pointed out the deficiency of structure design of existing bra. It resulted in different breast shape of two different age female groups, but existing structure design of bra is not aimed at and distinguished to age, especially to young female, so lead to difference between bra cup shape and breast shape and the shaping effect is influenced. In addition, there are some deficiencies such as inadaptability and instability in body movement following and shaping keeping because of the effect of bra style and materials.Thirdly, through the actual measurement and compare to the breast shape of two age groups, it pointed out that the 26-35 years old married female is more plump in breast shape, but it have the tendency of droop meanwhile. So this age female group is more needed to adjust breast shape by wearing bra. For this reason, the research built the regression model of breast shape about the 26-35 years old married female, and through testing and verifying the existing breast mathematical model aimed at the 18-25 years old unmarried female, it found that the mathematical model is applicative to the 26-35 years old married female. So the dart value of the 26-35 years old married female is calculated on the basis of the mathematical model. Based on which, it designed and made eight different bra cup patterns through dart distribution method. After testing shaping effect of the eight patterns, the best bra to shaping is selected. Compared to the design of existing bra which relied on experience to a certain degree, this design is more scientific.Finally, it studied the pressure comfort and other comfort such as hot and damp comfort and contact comfort of bra. It mainly researched the pressure comfort from subjective estimate and objective estimate, and analyzed some factors influencing bra wearing comfort and the relationship between pressure feeling and pressure value of each measuring point, and discussed the comfort extent of pressure value of all points. Then it analyzed the bra wearing instability point of view bra structure, materials elasticity and force. It also studied the hot and damp comfort and contact comfort through subjective estimate. The measuring and estimating content is mainly included seven aspects, they are prick feeling, soft feeling, damp and hot feeling, clamminess feeling, stuffiness feeling, sticky feeling and total comfort feeling, and the seven aspects are mainly relationship with materials property. It indicated that movement is mainly affect damp and hot feeling, stuffiness feeling and sticky feeling of bra.更多还原