【作者】 覃蕊；

【导师】 范雪荣；

【作者基本信息】 江南大学 ， 纺织工程， 2011， 博士

【摘要】 随着生活水平的不断提高和健康着装观念的深入人心,人们对服装舒适性的要求也日益趋高。近年来,压力舒适性已逐渐成为除热湿舒适性和触觉舒适性外,衡量服装穿着舒适性的重要指标之一。从目前的研究情况来看,在人体的各穿着部位中,鲜见有关男短袜袜口压力的报道,对于袜口压力的相关文献,也大多是从医学角度入手,探讨静脉曲张袜对人体的压力作用,但并未从服装人体工学角度进行合理的解释,更未对压力进行量化分析。本课题以男短袜袜口为研究对象,深入探讨了袜口对人体足颈的压力作用,并提出了一种利用压力与受压后人体体表位移之间的关系进行压力研究的新方法,为袜口优化设计提供了理论基础,填补了该领域的空白。本研究通过对年龄在20-25岁之间标准体型的健康男性大学生50人进行三维人体扫描,首次确定了袜口处人体足颈的截面形态、截面曲线方程及曲线周长,为袜口处压力数学模型的建立提供了数据基础。在研究过程中,将人体视为弹性体,足颈与袜口之间的接触视为弹性接触,结合袜口处人体足颈的构造、骨骼的位置、形状以及皮肤、软组织的厚度、弹性模量和泊松比,首次建立了袜口处足颈部位的有限元仿真模型,该模型假设腿部皮肤、软组织、骨骼均为各向同性均匀的线弹性材料,并通过ANSYS有限元软件对袜口处压力及位移的分布情况进行了模拟分析,得到的腿截面上任意角度点压力与体表位移之间的函数关系为压力舒适性的量化研究提供了基础数据。研究表明,对于两款袜子来说,在腿截面上的同一角度点,不同短袜间压力和位移的倍数关系基本一致,即压力之间的倍数比近似等于位移之间的倍数比。本研究还将袜口处人体足颈的截面按照角度等分为四个区域,分别为[0o, 90o](区域Ι)、[90o, 180o](区域ΙΙ)、[180o, 270o](区域ΙΙΙ)和[270o, 360o](区域ΙV)。根据有限元的模拟结果,当受试者着装后处于静态时,区域ΙΙΙ为腿截面面积缩量最大的部位,区域ΙΙ为面积缩量最小的部位,区域Ι和区域ΙV面积缩量基本相等,区域ΙΙΙ面积缩量约为区域ΙΙ的3倍,约为区域Ι和区域ΙV的2倍,该结论为袜口的优化设计提供了理论依据。本研究还探讨了人体穿着短袜时的动态压力,并将动态压力分为随时间变化的压力以及人体在行走过程中的压力两个部分。其中,随时间变化的压力分为六个时段,分别为瞬时压力,1h,2h,4h,8h,最长时长定义为12h。行走过程分为直立状态、腿部上抬10°、腿部上抬30°以及腿部后踢四个阶段。研究表明,袜口处足颈部位的压力随短袜穿着时间的延长而逐渐减小。在着装后的1h内,压力下降幅度最大,约为总体下降幅度的三分之一,2h后,压力下降幅度基本达到整体下降幅度的二分之一,而后,压力减小的速度随时间的延长逐渐趋于缓慢,约8h后,袜口处压力趋于平衡,且压力最大值与最小值之间的差距随着时间的延长不断缩小,到最后逐渐趋于腿截面上各点压力值均处于基本近似的状态。对于袜口处面料相同的短袜,初始压力越大的短袜以及袜口处原始压力越大的点,随时间延长的压力下降幅度越大。对于本实验所用到的棉和锦纶两种面料,随着着装时间的延长,棉袜口压力下降幅度大于锦纶袜口。腿截面的面积缩量也随着时间的延长而呈现递增趋势,在这个过程中,区域ΙΙΙ面积缩量的变化最为明显,区域ΙΙ面积缩量的变化最小。着装12h以后,区域ΙΙΙ的面积缩量约增长为区域ΙΙ的5倍。人在行走过程中,腿截面上压力较小的点其压力数值变化不大。在压力值较大的位置,当袜口面料相同时,压力越大的短袜在行走过程中的压力变化幅度越大。对于棉和锦纶两种面料,棉袜口压力变化幅度要大于锦纶袜口。在行走过程中,对于腿截面的大部分区域,直立状态所受到的袜口压力最大,腿部后踢阶段所受压力最小。腿截面各区域的面积缩量在行走过程中变化不大,而直立状态的面积缩量略大于其它三个阶段。本研究还分析了影响压力水平的各因素之间的关系,并最终确定了与压力水平密切相关的四项指标,分别为袜口材料劲度系数、泊松比、袜口弹性伸长率、原始袜口宽度。通过主成分分析建立了压力与四项指标之间的函数关系,并以此为基础建立了袜口处压力预测的数学模型,经过图形检验和卡方检验,此模型与实际测量结果吻合度良好,可以对服装压力的预测提供理论依据。更多还原

【Abstract】 With the rapidly increasing of living standards and the concept of healthy dressing deeply rooted in the hearts of the people, the requirement of clothing comfort is becoming higher and higher. In addition to heat and moisture comfort and feeling comfort, pressure comfort has gradually become one of the key indicators in measuring clothing comfort in recent years. From the present study, in various wearing parts of human body, the studying of clothing pressure on the top part of men’s socks is rare. The existing literatures about pressure on the top part of socks are mostly investigated the pressure effects of stockings for varicose vein on the human body from the angle of medicine, nevertheless, there has no reasonable interpretation and quantitative analysis of the pressure from ergonomic viewpoint. This paper regarding the top part of men’s socks as the research subject, deeply discussed the pressure effects of top part of socks on the lower leg, and then put forward a new method in studying pressure with the relationship between pressure and displacement arising therefrom. All these conclusions supply a theoretical reference for optimal design of the top part of a man’s sock, and the work fill a gap in this field.In this study, we selected 50 Chinese college students with a standard shape and between 20 and 25 as subjects. Through three-dimensional body scanning, we present a model of the cross-section of the lower leg where the top part of a man’s sock is located for the first time, and then solve the equation and girth of the cross section curve, these provide a data support for the building of mathematical model for forecasting pressure. In this study, the human body is regarded as an elastomer and the contact between the lower leg and the top part of the sock is considered to be an elastic contact, combined with the structure of human leg at the top part of socks, the position and shape of the bone, the thickness, modulus of elasticity and poisson’s ratio of skin and soft tissue, the finite element simulation model of the lower leg cross-section at the top part of socks is set up for the first time, the model assume that skin, soft tissue and bones are all liner elastic materials, and the finite element analysis software ANSYS is successfully applied to simulate the pressure and displacement distribution at the top part of socks, the pressure-displacement quadratic equation of any point on the lower leg cross-section estimated by simulated provide basic data for quantification research of the pressure comfort. Research indicates that the multiple relations of the pressure and displacement are basically the same for two socks, that is to say, the multiple of pressure values approximately equal to the displacement ones. Meanwhile, we divide the lower leg cross section into four equal regions according to angle, which are [0o, 90o] (region I)、[90o, 180o] (region II)、[180o, 270o] (region III) and [270o, 360o] (region IV), according to the simulation and analysis results of the finite element, [180o, 270o] (region III) had the largest area shrinkage mass on the cross-section of the leg, [90o, 180o] (region II) had the smallest, and [0o, 90o] (region I) and [270o, 360o] (region IV) had roughly the same. Region III has approximately treble the area shrinkage mass of region II, and double that of region I and IV. These conclusions supply a theoretical reference for optimal design of the top part of a man’s sock. This paper demonstrates an analytical method for simulating dynamic pressure and displacement at the top part of men’s socks. The dynamic pressure is divided into two parts, the first is pressure with time, and the second is pressure while walking. The pressure with time is set in six periods, these are 1h , 2h , 4h , 8h , maximum 12h , respectively, and the walking process is divided into four phases, these are described as upright position, foot backward off the ground, leg lift 10°and leg lift 30°, respectively. Research indicates that the pressure values of the top part of socks gradually decreased over the course of time. The pressure values significantly decreased within the first 1h , the rate of descender is about one third of the total, and the decreasing rates arrive at one half after 2h , and then the descent rate of pressure decreased less and less as time prolonged. The pressure values were almost stable 8 hours after putting on the socks. The gap between maximum value of pressure and the minimum became smaller gradually, and the pressure values at 72 points trended to basically the same in the end. Moreover, the larger the initial pressure arising from the socks or the more a point on the lower leg cross section is subjected to pressure, the more significant the pressure descended with time for the top part of men’s socks of the same fabric. As for the two different fabrics of the socks in this study, the descender of the the cotton top part of socks is larger than those of nylon as time prolonging. The area shrinkage mass of lower leg cross section also increase as time goes by, and region III has the most evidently change, region II is least. Region III has approximately 5 times the area shrinkage mass of region II after 12h . There has little change of the pressure values at the point of lower pressure in walking. For the same fabric, the higher pressure of the socks, the larger amplitude of variation of the pressure values, and then the pressure variation of the the cotton top part of socks is larger than those of nylon. For most regions of the lower leg cross section, the pressure was highest when the subjects were in an upright position stage during the course of walking, and the minimum occurred at the foot backward off the ground stage. The total area shrinkage mass of the four regions in different phases changed little during the course of walking. Nevertheless, the total area shrinkage mass is slightly higher in the upright position than that in the other three phases.At last, we discuss in details with the relationship among each factor which affect the pressure values, and finally established four indices which closely related to pressure level, these are elastic coefficient of top part of socks, Poisson’s ratio, elastic elongation and width of top part of socks. We obtained the regression equation among pressure and physical properties of the top part of socks though principal component regression. Chi-square and figure test indicated that the predictive values of pressure showed good agreement with the measured ones. The conclusions can provide the theory basis for the forecast of clothing pressure.更多还原