【作者】 刘芳芳；

【导师】 张学锋；

【作者基本信息】 南京大学 ， 考古学与博物馆学， 2011， 博士

【摘要】 妆奁是古人盛放梳妆用品的器具,首先出现于南方的楚国,经秦的发展,至汉代,漆奁的装饰非常豪华。本文拟对战国漆奁、秦漆奁、汉漆奁,以及纹样、装饰技法、形制演变做出综合研究,并探讨其中的相关问题。除绪论外,本文分为八章。绪论部分,首先简要交代战国秦汉时期漆器发展简史、早期文献记载及漆器的主要种类。其次,界定本文所指“漆质妆奁”的概念,奁的文献记载及考古发现,并介绍本文的选题目的及研究方法。指出战国秦汉妆奁产生、发展、繁荣的过程。经战国秦汉时期的发展,妆奁无论在形制上还是装饰工艺上,都发生了巨大的变化,因此,妆奁的综合研究不仅非常有必要,而且具有相当的学术意义。第一章,对战国秦汉漆奁的胎骨及内部物品进行分析。漆器成型主要是靠制胎,漆器胎骨或称为器骨,是漆饰的依托。漆奁作为小型日常器具,其胎骨应以轻便为宜,主要有木胎、布脱胎,以及少量的复合胎骨。本文着重探讨了布脱胎的命名及其出现时代,指出布脱胎轻巧结实,造型稳定,适宜制造形状复杂且不规则的器物。墓葬所出的漆奁,内部存放的物品主要分面部化妆品、梳妆工具、发饰及其他一些物品。梳妆用具的形状直接影响到了汉代多子奁内部子奁的形状。笔者把秦汉时期的面部美容用品细化为基本护肤、粉妆、点唇、胭脂、眉饰等几个方面。梳妆工具分为铜镜、梳、篦、铜刷、镊子、刮刀、眉笔、黛板等。最后介绍了常见的发饰如笄、簪等固定发髻的束发用具,以及假发、花椒等。第二章,对漆奁的纹样类型及构图形式进行分析。纹样是装饰艺术中一个重要内容,是按照一定图案结构,经过写实、抽象等方法而逐渐定型化的图形。战国秦汉时期漆奁上的装饰纹样,类别和数量非常多,纹样更加繁复多变。战国时期漆奁的装饰技法以彩绘为主,有写实和变形夸张两种表现手法。汉代的漆奁还借助于锥画、贴饰金箔片纹样来进行装饰。纹样分为动物纹样、植物纹样、自然景象纹样、几何纹样、社会生活和神话传说纹样。纹样总是按照一定的方式组合起来的,这种组合方式称为纹样的构成形式。适合纹样、独立纹样和连续纹样这三种构成形式是漆奁最基本的纹样构成形式。漆奁的适合纹样是依据漆奁的造型,描绘出与器形相适合的纹样。独立纹样是指在漆器的器物中心位置或某一面上,描绘独立的个体单位或几个单位的装饰纹样。当独立纹样由几个单元组成时,其基本组合形式有对称、旋转、平衡、辐射等几种。漆奁的中心纹样周围,往往饰以连续的带状纹样,增加了器皿的层次感及美感。这种纹样以二方连续居多,绝大多数是横式的左右联系。漆奁盖与壁上的连续纹样之所以醒目,离不开色线和色带。它们能够使零散多变的纹饰归于统一。第三章,对漆奁的装饰工艺进行分析。战国、秦汉时期的漆奁,其器表的装饰几乎都在黑(褐)这类深色地漆上进行的。漆奁上丰富多样的装饰纹样是通过彩绘、锥画、金属嵌、贴饰金银箔片等装饰工艺表现出来的。从器物艺术装饰的角度看,不同时代的漆奁,其装饰方式的侧重点,具有比较鲜明的时代气息和浓厚的民族特色,体现了工艺技术的变化。彩绘是漆器最基本的装饰手法。楚国出土的漆奁往往是用多种颜色的漆液或油彩在漆奁上绘制纹样。彩绘主要分为线描、平涂、堆漆和渲染四种方法。最常用的方法是线描与平涂。锥画是用尖锐的针或锥作绘画笔刻划而成的纹饰。锥画漆器经过了战国时期的草创期,主要流行于西汉中期以前。西汉中期以后,漆奁上的锥画逐渐让位于新兴的嵌金属扣、贴金银箔片、镶嵌宝石等工艺,装饰性更强。第四章,对战国时期的漆奁产生的背景、漆奁资料的来源、漆奁的种类和形制以及楚式漆奁的特征进行分析。漆奁作为日用小型用具是战国中后期以后,在楚国首先出现的。秦攻占楚郢都之前,江汉平原出土的楚国漆奁是典型的楚式漆奁。秦取楚国郢都之后,楚式漆奁的资料来源于湖南地区的楚墓、安徽及周边地区的楚墓、巴蜀的楚移民墓葬。由于漆奁出现较晚,楚墓中出土的漆奁数量并不多。从漆奁出现到楚国灭亡,历时百余年,这期间漆奁型制变化不是很大,变化主要体现在形体的大小、纹样、胎骨等方面,但是,楚国漆器中崇尚红色、崇尚凤鸟、巫风盛行这三大特点,却对汉代漆奁的制作、装饰产生了深远的影响。第五章,对秦漆器的考古发现、秦墓出土漆奁的形制与特征、相关问题以及秦漆器的新特征进行分析。秦国本土的漆器制作水平相对楚地来说显得相当落后。秦取郢都后,漆奁在江汉地区秦墓中已成为日用漆器的重要品种。秦墓出土的漆奁形状有圆形、椭圆形两种,椭圆奁是新出现的器形。漆奁的胎骨全部为木胎,不见布脱胎。秦漆奁有一半以上素髹无纹饰,漆奁上多见的烙印铭文成为秦漆奁的一个重要特征,反映了秦手工业生产“物勒工名”的制度。秦圆奁秉承楚国漆奁扁圆形的造型。秦漆奁纹样除写实性的凤鸟外,更多的是各种变形鸟纹,尤其是各种鸟首纹、云鸟纹、“B”字形纹样。秦占据楚地之后,不但占有了丰富的漆树资源,同时也获得了大量的漆工艺者。秦将许多漆工艺者迁到咸阳,咸阳成为了新的漆器制作中心。秦统治期间,楚文化的一些器形消失了,而实用漆器有所增加。秦生产管理方面的一些经验如“物勒工名”制度、设立市亭管理工商业等都被汉代继承下来并有所发展。汉代的蜀汉漆器的高度发展离不开秦在巴蜀的经营管理,正是秦在巴蜀的早期开发,才使蜀汉工官漆器成为汉代漆器的代表。第六章,对汉代漆奁的形制演变以及相关问题进行探讨。全国大部分省份都有汉代漆奁出土。汉代漆奁的器形与装饰工艺较战国、秦发生了巨大的变化。汉代漆奁有圆形、方形(包括长方形、正方形)、椭圆形三类。方奁与椭圆奁常常用来盛放非梳妆用具,圆奁以盛放梳妆用具为主。就妆奁来讲,汉代除了扁矮的单层奁外,出现了双层妆奁,并且流行多子奁。采用圆形、多子奁的形制,且镶嵌金属扣、贴饰金银箔片、盖顶镶嵌柿蒂纹银片,并通过饰云气纹、动物纹共同构建一个神仙世界的漆奁最具汉代特色。两汉时期,蜀郡与广汉郡漆器在全国同时期漆器业中占有相当重要的地位。笔者认为,四川的漆手工业是受楚文化的影响,并在此基础上发展起来的。秦政府移民入蜀、修建成都城,这些措施促使了四川地区的开发。巴蜀在汉己成为重要工业地区,汉代的金银铜器的主要材料也主产于巴蜀,这些都导致汉以后全国漆器制造重心转移到四川地区,并促使了漆器与金属制造业的结合,从而产生了名贵的“蜀汉扣器”。广陵地区在两汉四百余年间创造了发达而瑰丽的漆文化。在战国晚期到西汉初期,这里的漆器风格主要延续了楚国漆器的特色。西汉中后期以后,广陵的漆器制作已经十分发达,漆器的品种以常见的日用器为主。西汉中后期的豪华漆奁主要出土于广陵地区,代表了西汉中后期以后漆奁制作的最高水平。第七章,对漆奁体现出来的汉代的厚葬之风及神仙思想进行初步分析。西汉中期以后镶嵌银扣、贴饰金银箔片的漆奁在当时的社会是极其昂贵的奢侈品。此类漆奁的使用,反映了汉代在强盛国力的支撑下滋生的奢侈与厚葬之风。一个时代的文化氛围是那个时代器物发展的土壤,而一个时代的器物,又能够反映出那个时代的文化面貌。汉代人的神仙世界主要是由云气、神山、仙人、祥瑞等主要元素构成的。汉代社会的求仙思想在汉代漆奁上有非常明显的时代烙印,多子奁寄寓了汉代人祈求多子多孙的愿望。第八章,作为余论,简述了两汉以后妆奁的发展。三国、两晋到隋唐时期,从考古资料来看,漆奁的数量不多,漆奁延续了汉代漆奁的传统造型,漆艺在日臻成熟中又有所演进。汉代流行的多子奁到五代及宋元时期,演变成逐层套起的套奁。明清妆奁的设计向两个方向发展：一类妆奁继承了战国以来漆奁小巧便携的特点；另一类已演变成不易搬动的家具。更多还原

【Abstract】 Lian toilet box is the apparatus of ancient to lay up toilet articles, which first appeared in the Chu State, developed in Qin Dynasty, and bloomed with decorated luxurious in Han Dynasty. This paper intends to make a comprehensive study and a preliminary discussion on lacquer lian toilet boxes in Warring States, Qin Dynasty and Han Dynasty, accompanied with their patterns, decorative techniques, shape evolutions, and other related issues.In addition to the introduction, the paper is divided into eight chapters.In the introduction section, the brief history of lacquer in Warring States, Qin Dynasty and Han Dynasty, together with early literature records and the main types of lacquer, is introduced firstly. Second, the "lacquer lian toilet box" concept referred in this article, lian toilet box related literature records and archaeological findings are defined, followed with the description about the selection purpose of the article topic and research methods. Subsequently, the calendar, development and prosperity of lian toilet boxes in Warring States, Qin Dynasty and Han Dynasty is pointed out. There were tremendous changes in their development, both in shape and in decoration. Therefore, the comprehensive study on lian toilet box had a academically necessary and theoretical research value.The first chapter analyzes the fetus and internal materials of lacquer lian toilet boxes in the Warring States, Qin Dynasty and Han Dynasty. Lacquer forming mainly depends on body samples, and lacquer decoration relies on bones of body sample or lacquer fetus. As small daily appliances, the fetus of lacquer lian toilet box should be light, and mainly include wooden body, cloth-born-out body, and a small amount of compound fetus. This paper focuses on the naming of cloth-born-out body and its emergence age, which is appropriate to create complex shapes and irregular objects for its light, strong and stable. In excavated lacquer lian toilet boxes, the main deposited objects are facial cosmetics, dressing tools, hair accessories and other items. Dressing appliances directly affected the shape of sub-lian toilet box of the Han Dynasty multi-lian toilet box. The author refines facial cosmetics to the basic skin-care products, powder makeup, lipstick, rouge, eyebrow jewelry and other aspects. Dressing tools are divided into bronze mirror, comb, comb, copper brush, tweezers, scrapers, eyebrow pencil and Dai panels. Finally the common hair accessories, such as hairpiece, Chinese red pepper, hairpins and other fixed beam hair tools are introduced.In ChapterⅡ, the pattern type and the pattern composition of lacquer lian toilet boxes is analyzed. Pattern is an important element in the decorative arts, which is the graph structure according to certain patterns, through realism, abstract and other methods to gradually shape. The decorative patterns in Warring States, Qin Dynasty and Han Dynasty are complex in type, amount and pattern design. Decorative techniques of lacquer lian toilet boxes in Warring States mainly are two kind performances, realism and exaggerated distortion. Lacquer lian toilet boxes in Han Dynasty have also used the cone painting and attached gold foil sheets to decorate patterns in addition. Patterns are divided into animal patterns, plant patterns, patterns of natural scenes, geometric patterns, patterns of social life and mythology. For patterns are always combined together in a serial manner, this combination is called the composition manner of patterns. Fitting pattern, independent pattern and continuous pattern are the three most basic pattern composition manners of lacquer lian toilet boxes. Fitting pattern is the pattern designed based on the shape and physiognomy of lacquer lian toilet boxes. Independent pattern is the individual unit or several separate units of decorative patterns in the center or a surface of lacquer. When the independent pattern is made up of several sub-modules, its basic form includes symmetry, rotation, balance, and other types of radiation. Continuous patterns are usually decorated around the main pattern of lacquer lian toilet boxes to increase its sense of vision contrast and beauty utensils. One of the majority of continuous patterns is consecutive binary squares, most of which are horizontal links from the left to the right. The successive eye-catching of continuous patterns on the cover and the wall of lacquer lian toilet boxes comes with the color line and the ribbon. They can be attributed to the unification of the fragmented and varied ornamentations.ChapterⅢdiscusses decorative crafts of lacquer lian toilet boxes. In Warring States, Qin Dynasty and Han Dynasty, lacquer lian toilet boxes were decorated almost in dark primer paint, such as black or brown in color. The rich variety of patterns was performed by colored drawing, cone painting, metal inlay, gold and silver foil sticker attachment and other decorations. From the perspective of decorative arts, focuses of lacquer lian toilet box decorative forms in different periods, have more distinctive flavors of the times and strong national characteristics, reflecting changes in technology. On the whole, colored drawing is the most basic decorative techniques. The lacquer lian toilet boxes excavated in Chu States were often painted with a variety of color paint solutions or greasepaints. Colored drawings are divided into line drawing, flat painted, paint and rendering stack, the most common of which are line drawing and flat coated. Cone painting is decoratively carved through the needle or cone drawing pen. Cone painting passed the threshold during the Warring States period, and populated in the middle of Western Han Dynasty. After the middle of Western Han Dynasty, Cone painting on lacquer lian toilet boxes gradually gave way to the emerging embedded metal buckle, laced gold and silver foil pieces, mounted gems and other technologies which are more decorative.In chapter IV, the paper analyzes the background of lacquer lian toilet boxes’ emergent in the Warring States period, the source of literatures about lacquer lian toilet boxes, the types and shapes of lacquer lian toilet boxes, and characteristics especial in Chu State. It is first that lacquer lian toilet boxes, as small appliances, came into being in Chu State after the late Warring States. Before Ying capital of Chu State captured by Qin State, the unearthed lacquer lian toilet boxes in Jianghan Plain are in typical Chu-style. After Qin State taking Chu Ying capital, data about Chu-style lacquer lian toilet boxes came forth from the Chu Tomb in Hunan, Anhui and surrounding areas Chu State and Chu-Shu immigration burial. For lacquer lian toilet boxes appeared at later of the Warring States period, there are no much lacquer lian toilet boxes unearthed from Chu Tombs actually. From lacquer lian toilet boxes’ appearance to Chu State demise, which lasted over a hundred years, the types and shapes of lacquer lian toilet boxes were not changed greatly. Some changes during this period mainly reflected in body size, patterns, fetus, etc. However, red hue, advocating phoenix and witchcraft as the three typical characteristics of Chu style, produced a profound impaction Han Dynasty lacquer lian toilet boxes.Chapter V makes an exploration on the archaeological discoveries of Qin Dynasty lacquer lian toilet boxes, the shape and characteristics of them, new arisen features of them and more lacquer-related issues. Lacquer lian toilet boxes have become a an important species daily lacquer in Qin Dynasty tomb in Jianghan Plain, after Qin State taking Ying captal of Chu State. The shapes of lacquer lian toilet boxes excavated from Qin tomb have two types that are round and oval, and the oval shape ones is an emerging shape. Lacquer lian toilet boxes’s fetuses in this period are all wooden body, but non cloth-born-out one. More than half of lacquer lian toilet boxes in Qin Dynasty are plain Xiu without painted decoration, on which, imprinted inscription became an important feature of lacquer lian toilet boxes in Qin Dynasty, and that reflecting the "objects imprinted workers name" system of the Qin handicraft production. Lacquer lian toilet boxes in Qin Dynasty inherited the flat round shape style of that of Chu State. In addition to realistic patterns of phoenix birds, the more variety of deformation bird, in particular, the pattern of bird’s head, cloud bird, "B"-shaped patterns were present in lacquer lian toilet boxes in Qin Dynasty. Qin state not only owned more lacquer oak resources, but also got a lot of paint technologists after it occupied Chu State. Qin moved many lacquer craft technologists to Xianyang, and then Xianyang has become a new center of the lacquer craft. During the reign of Qin, some of the shapes of lacquer lian toilet boxes in Chu culture disappeared, and practical lacquer increased as a counterpart. Some experience of Qin Dynasty in production management, such as "objects imprinted workers name" system, establishment of municipal management for industrial and commercial kiosks and so on was inherited and developed in Han Dynasty. High level and quick development of lacquer in Han Dynasty in Sichuan area was inseparable from the management of Qin Dynasty in this area. It is Qin’s early development in Sichuan that made Shu-Han official lacquer work became the representative one of that period.In chapterⅥ, the evolution of the shapes of lacquer lian toilet boxes in Han Dynasty and related issues were discussed. Most provinces of China have unearthed lacquer lian toilet boxes of Han Dynasty. There were dramatic changes at the shapes and paint decoration technology of lacquer lian toilet boxes in Han Dynasty than that of the Warring States Period, and that of Qin Dynasty. Shapes of lacquer lian toilet boxes in Han Dynasty include round, square (including rectangular, square), and oval-shaped three categories. The ones of square and oval-shaped were often to hold non-dressing equipments, while the round ones to hold dressing appliances. The lacquer lian toilet boxes of Han Dynasty got the emergence of a double layer box, in addition to flat short single one, and the population of multi-layer one. Through round type, multi-sub-box’s shape, inlaid metal buttons, decorated gold foil pieces, the covered top inlaid fine silver pieces, and the clouds pattern decorated with animal patterns together to build a fairy world as the most characteristics lacquer lian toilet boxes in Han Dynasty. In Han Dynasty, Shu County and Guang County played an important role in the lacquerware industry in the country. The author believes that, lacquer handicraft in Sichuan in Han Dynasty was influenced by Chu culture and developed by basing on it. That Qin government drove people to Sichuan and constructed the Chengdu City, contributed to the development of Sichuan. Sichuan has become an important industry in the Chinese region of the Han Dynasty. Gold, silver and copper were mainly produced in Sichuan, which have led to the Han Dynasty national lacquerware industry shifted to the Sichuan region later, and promoted a combination of lacquer and metal manufacturing, resulting in a rare "Shu-Han buckle device." Guangling have created a well-developed culture and magnificent paint in the four hundred years of the whole Han Dynasty. From the late Warring States period to the early Western Han Dynasty, the lacquer lacquer features mainly continued Chu style. After the late Western Han Dynasty, the lacquerware industry in Guangling was well developed, and the common varieties of lacquer-based were household devices. The major luxury lacquer lian toilet boxes of the late Western Han Dynasty were unearthed in Guangling region, which representing the highest level of the late Western Han.ChapterⅦ, author further analyzes the grand funeral and the immortal ideas in Han Dynasty. After the mid-Western Han Dynasty, burying lacquer lian toilet boxes decorated with inlay silver buckle and gold foil stickers, which were extremely expensive and luxury at that time, reflects the grand funeral and luxury life style by the strong support of the Han dynasty’s strong development. Culture of an era is the soil of artifacts of that era to develop on, and artifacts of that era also reflect the culture of that era to look for. The immortality thought in the Han Dynasty has a very distinct brand of the times on the lacquer lian toilet boxes. Han’s fairy world mainly were made up by clouds, mountain, immortal, and other major elements of good fortune. Han’ multi-sub-box ignited people’s desire for more children and more descendants.ChapterⅧ, as complementary discussion, outlines the development of lian toilet boxes after Han Dynasty. In Three Kingdoms, Jin Dynasty, Sui Dynasty and Tang dynasty, from the view of archaeological material and data, there were only a small quantity of lacquer lian toilet boxes, which continued the traditional style in Han Dynasty evolving with more mature craft technology. The type of multi-sub-box populated in Han Dynasty turned into a set of layer type in Five Dynasties, Song Dynasty and Yuan Dynasty. The design of lian toilet boxes in Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty evolved to two directions:one inherited the characteristics of small, portable paint lianes since the Warring States; the other has evolved into unmovable furniture.更多还原