【作者】 徐红梅；

【导师】 张诗亚；

【作者基本信息】 西南大学 ， 教育技术学， 2011， 博士

【摘要】 全球化背景下,现代传媒技术深刻影响社会文化。服饰作为民族文化的重要组成部分,趋向西化、汉化,传承面临困境。在现代传媒技术为主要标志的社会变革背景下,民族服饰文化传承面临什么危机与机遇?如何看待现代媒介发展对民族服饰文化传承的影响与作用?基上上述思考,以“媒介”为本研究的思维主线,选择数字图像这一媒介,尝试对图像媒介与民族服饰文化传承做深入、细致、及时的研究。本研究选择青海省互助县土族服饰为个案,运用田野考察方法,对互助地区土族服饰及其传承现状做深入观察与研究,认识并揭示互助土族服饰及其文化内涵；运用传播学方法对互助土族服饰传承体系做要素分析,探讨在传统农耕经济社会中,民族服饰文化依靠什么传承,如何传承?在上述考察与传播学理论分析的基础上,选择数字图像媒介进行横向联系与思考；通过媒介比较分析,探讨传统民族服饰文化“传”之媒介的改变是民族服饰文化传承面临危机与机遇之“机”的关键所在。从分析图像媒介的性质、图像记录的本质入手,并将图像记录与人类学田野考察相联系,思考以民族服饰文化传承为主旨的图像记录的实践原则,并就获取的民族服饰图像在数字化情境下的检索与分类做一定的实验研究。经过上述内容的探讨与研究,得出以下结论：印证了在民族服饰文化系统的传统传承方式中,民族服饰文化传承的主体是文化持有者,重要的传承媒介是身体与语言。其中,身体是具有空间性倾向的媒介,决定了民族服饰的地域特色及向外传播的广度；语言是具有时间性倾向的媒介,保障了民族服饰文化载时间上的延续性,使其不断积累并代代相传。除此之外,传承的情境必不可少,独特的自然生态环境及其社会文化环境是民族服饰文化传承的宏观基础,而民族成员个体的人生礼仪与集体的岁时节日活动是民族服饰文化传承的重要情境。回顾人类图像记录的历史,按使用的工具不同,可以划分为绘画、摄影(含数码类)两个重要时期。从符号学视角分析,图像符号具有能指与所指高度统一的特性；图像通过人的重要视觉器官——眼睛感知,降低了认知负荷。图像记录具有技术性,涉及图像的获得与传播全过程。此外,图像记录具有建构性,记录主体的社会经验、文化背景对图像记录的重要意义。数字图像作为一种重要的“数字化编码状态”,记录与传播民族服饰的物质形态及其文化内涵具有一定的优势。摄影自产生时起,就与田野考察相伴相随。图像(含动态的)记录是人类学研究的重要工具和方法,通过图像记录、表达民族志或人类文化内容及观念,一直是民族学或文化人类学的另一种调查报告“文体”或研究方式。图像记录丰富了人类学的研究手段；早期图像资源是人类学研究的重要课题与信息来源：图像资源支撑理论观点,也是人类学研究成果中的重要组成部分；图像可有效转化人类学学术成果,参与多元文化交流。人类学田野考察中的图像记录具有文化、技术、艺术三方面的属性。除了图像的摄取之外,图像在基于互联网的有效传播也是十分重要的。实现图像符号编码与译码的一致性是图像传播效果的重要保障。民族文化类图像技术性编码策略主要有依靠文字、依靠图像本身的内容两大类。着力于依靠图像自身内容的民族文化类图像编码策略并做了一定的实践尝试,提出了以民族服饰的视觉特征为主的民族服饰图像识别方法,并以互助土族服饰中的“秀苏”与盘绣绣片为例,运用灰度共生矩阵方法提取各自的图像纹理特征,在Matlab平台下结合神经网络实现对互助土族青年女性服饰衣袖“秀苏”和土族盘绣绣片的自动识别。最终,互助青年女性衣袖“秀苏”的识别查准率为98%,盘绣绣片的识别查准率为75%。基于对民族服饰图像的摄取、记录这一前期研究的基础上,联系信息技术、传播手段迅速发展与广泛应用的现实,提出运用数字图像识别这一方法米分类与认知民族服饰,探讨数码时代如何有效记录与传播民族服饰文化,对后继研究有所启发。本研究试图从技术应用的角度,综合运用传播学、人类学、计算机科学等的理论和方法来分析探索解决数码时代传统民族服饰文化传承与发展问题。民族服饰文化传承中的图像记录这一问题的本质是图像记录技术与传统民族服饰文化如何相处的问题,即借助数字图像,传统民族服饰文化如何获得数字化保护与发展的问题。并探讨了民族服饰图像识别中的关键性技术,无论从结果还是方法来说都有着一定的价值与参考意义。更多还原

【Abstract】 The modern media technology deeply impact culture and society on background of globalization.Dress is the important part of ethnic culture and face the criticism of culture heritage.Under the background of social change labed by moder media technology, ethnic dress cultural heritage face.What kind of crisis and chance of ethnic dress cultural heritage? How evaluate ffection and effeluence of moder media technology to ethnic dress cultural heritage?Based on the above considerations, "media" is selected as main line of thinking for this study, an in-depth, in-detail and timely research on image recording and transmission about cultural heritage of nation’s dress is tried to do. Tu national clothing of Huzhu County, Qinghai Province is chose as a case, in-depth observation and research on Tu national clothing and its heritage was done with fieldwork method, Tu national dress and its cultural connotations is realized and revealed; the factors of transmission system of Tu national dress is analyzed by communication methods, and the national costumes inherited by what and how to inherit in the peasant farming society is discussed.Based on the above investigation and theoretical analysis of communication, digital images media is selected to do horizontal linking and thinking. The change of media of traditional national dress culture is talked through comparatively analyzing, which is the key crisis and opportunity of national cultural costumes heritage. Starting from analyzing the nature of media image and image recording, associating image record with anthropological fieldwork, the practice principle of image recording aimed on the heritage of cultural is considered, and retrieval and automatic classification research is made on how to obtain images of national dress in digital age fashion.After research and discussion, the following conclusions are:in the traditional way of culture Heritage, the Main Body of cultural heritage of ethnic dress is cultural holder; main media are body and language. The body is media with spatial orientation, decides Regional Characteristics of ethnic dress and breadth of spread outside; language is media with temporal orientation, ensures Continuity of ethnic dress’culture in time to accumulate and pass from generation to generation. Situation of heritage is necessary. The unique natural ecology, geographical environment and socio-cultural environment are macroscopic foundation, life rituals of ethnic groups’ members and collective festivals are important situation of heritage.According of deference of tools, picture record has painting and photography phases. Semi logy analysis shows that picture signs have a high degree of unanimity of signifier and signified. Human being perceive picture by the most important visual organ-eyes, decrease of perceive load. Picture record has technicality during process of obtain and disseminate. Picture record has constructiveness that verifies important meaning of social experience and cultural background of record main body. Digital picture, as important" digital encoder state" has certain advantage to record and disseminate physical form and its cultural connotation of ethnic dress.Photography accompany with fieldwork since it comes into existence. Picture recoding is the important tool and method of anthology research. Express content and idea of ethnology and human culture through picture record always is another investigates report" a literary style" or research mode. The picture record riches research means; early picture resources are important subject and information source of anthology research, picture support theoretical positions and important component of anthology research results. Picture can transform anthology research results effetely. participate multi-cultural communication. The picture record during process of anthology fieldwork has cultural, technologic, artistic Properties. Apart from obtain. picture are effetely disseminated on Internet is important. To achieve unanimity of coding and decoding is important assurance of effect of pectoral dissemination. The technologic cording strategies of ethnic cultural pictures are by text and by picture content.This research focuses technologic cording strategy of ethnic cultural pictures by picture content, make certain practice. It suggests an approach of ethnic cultural picture recognition technique by ethnic dress’visual characters. It take "Xiu Su"of Tu nationality’dress and "Pang Xiu" Tu nationality’embroidery for example, and use GLCM (gray level co-occurrence matrix) method to extracts picture texture, then achieve automatic recognition of "Xiu Su"of Tu nationality’sleeve and "Pang Xiu" Tu nationality’embroidery. Finally, the recognition accuracy of "Xiu Su"of Tu nationality’ sleeve is 98%, the recognition accuracy of "Pang Xiu" Tu nationality’ embroidery is 75%.This research is based on fore research on photography and record of ethnic dress, connects with social reality of quickly development and widely use of information technology and communication method, then puts forward method of know and classify ethnic dress picture using image recognition, and discus method of effectively record and disseminate ethnic dress culture. There are helpful for future studies. This research tries to comprehensively apply the theories and methods of communication, Cult urology, sociology, anthpology, computer science and analyze and resolve the problems of traditional ethnic dress culture heritage and development. Finally, the paper discusses key technology of ethnic dress picture recognition that has certain application value and reference meaning.更多还原