【作者】 郑春颖；

【导师】 魏存成；

【作者基本信息】 吉林大学 ， 考古学及博物馆学， 2011， 博士

【摘要】 本文以高句丽遗存所见服饰作为主要研究对象。行文中将壁画图像、出土遗物与文献记载三者紧密结合。通过服饰分类研究与组合研究,全面把握该服饰资料的整体风格与面貌。在此基础上,从民族性、地域性、等级性、礼仪性四方面剖析其不同的社会属性,区分何种服饰因素为高句丽民族传统服饰,何者包含汉服因素,何者包含鲜卑服饰因素,何者为多种服饰因素混杂,揭示集安与平壤两地区在服饰等级序列与服饰礼仪功用两方面存在的差异性。并以此为出发点,结合高句丽墓葬,特别是高句丽壁画墓分期与编年的研究成果,深入探讨高句丽遗存所见服饰中各种文化因素的时空变迁。其中,集安地区重在分析高句丽民族的形成与高句丽民族服饰文化特质之间的关系;平壤地区侧重分析高句丽政权发展进程中,高句丽民族传统服饰的演变与传播。最后,将高句丽民族传统服饰与典型的汉族服饰,与我国东北部及西北朝鲜地区生活的拓跋鲜卑、慕容鲜卑、夫余、沃沮、秽貊、肃慎、靺鞨、渤海等民族服饰,及朝鲜半岛南端的百济、新罗服饰加以比较,系统阐释各族服饰文化之间的异同及产生原因,进一步探讨东北亚地区政治、经济、文化发展对服饰文化交流的影响及高句丽在其间所处地位、所起作用。全文共分10章:第1章《绪论》,简要说明本文研究对象,研究时空范围,介绍各种研究资料,回顾以往的研究成果,总结研究不足。阐释本文的研究意义与目的,概述研究思路与方法。第2章《妆饰》,包括发式、发饰和面妆三部分。发式,根据古代服饰有关发型记载及发式本身的形制特征,将壁画所绘发式分为披发、断发、辫发、髡发、顶髻、垂髻、撷子髻、鬟髻、盘髻、双髻、云髻、花钗大髻、不聊生髻、鬋鬓、垂髾等十五类,分别揭示各自的形制特色;发饰,分从壁画所绘发饰和遗迹出土发饰两方面分析步摇、簪、钗、巾帼等头部装饰品的外形特点;面妆,从花钿、斜红、面靥、白妆、红妆、额黄等方面,浅析高句丽壁画墓所见女子面部妆容特征。总结各项形制特征的基础上,对各种发式梳理人、发饰及面容修饰者的身份、等级、搭配等问题初步分析。第3章《首服》,包括正史《高句丽传》所载冠帽、壁画所绘冠帽、遗迹中出土的鎏金冠及冠帽饰物四部分。“正史《高句丽传》所载冠帽”总结十二家正史《高句丽传》有关冠帽的记载,将其分为“帻、骨苏、罗冠”与“折风、皮冠、弁”两组,分别考辨名称,推断形制,划分类型。“壁画所绘冠帽”,根据古代服饰所载冠帽名称,或是冠帽形制特点,为其命名。分型探讨各种冠帽的形制特征,并通过简短的考证,对人物身份、使用范围、该型冠帽在服饰史中的地位等问题加以说明。“遗迹中出土的鎏金冠”主要介绍在高句丽遗迹中发现的几件较为完整的鎏金冠及其使用方法。“冠帽饰物”分从“文献记载的高句丽冠帽饰物”、“壁画描绘的冠帽饰物”、“遗迹中出土的冠帽饰物残片”三个角度,系统地分析鸟羽、缨饰、镂空或饰有摇叶的鎏金冠饰等各种冠帽装饰品的外形特征,并对佩戴者的身份略加说明。第4章《身衣》,从襦、裤子、袍、裙和身衣上的其他装饰五方面,系统地探究高句丽史料及壁画所涉衣裳的基本风貌。短襦与长襦的形制分析,从领、衽、袖、腰饰、颜色、花纹、襈等七方面入手;裤子分为肥筩裤、瘦腿裤、犊鼻裈三类;“身衣上的其他装饰”包括披肩、披帛、韝、绶、蔽膝、芾、行滕七类,形制分析中使用者身份、使用场合、礼仪功用性等问题偶有涉猎。第5章《足衣》,根据文献记载、壁画描绘及出土实物三方面资料,可将足衣分为矮靿鞋、中靿鞋、高靿鞋、钉鞋、圆头履和笏头履六类。对各类足衣分型研究,从细节把握各型的形制特点,并对其使用者的性别、使用场合、使用方法等问题深入分析。第6章《其他出土饰物》,分从耳饰、手饰、带具三方面,对考古出土的耳环、耳坠、镯子、带扣、带銙、(钅宅)尾等各种饰物分型研究,揭示各种类型之间的形制差别,整体掌握它们的特征,粗部推断各种饰物使用者身份、使用方法。第7章《服饰的社会性》,在服饰分类研究的基础上,进行组合研究。根据妆饰、首服、身衣、足衣搭配方式不同,将其分成十型。并以此为出发点,深入剖析这些服饰资料所反映的民族性、地域性、等级性、礼仪性等多方社会属性。通过研究可知,十型搭配中包含高句丽民族传统服饰、汉族服饰、鲜卑服饰、多种服饰因素混杂型服饰四种服饰文化因素,集安和平壤两地的服饰构成存在明显的地域性、等级性、礼仪性差别。第8章《服饰的时空变迁》,参照高句丽壁画墓分期与编年研究成果,根据高句丽遗存中所见服饰资料的地域性阶段性差异,将其分为集安和平壤两大地区,再将每区各划分为四个时期。对各地区各时期各型服饰搭配的形制演变情况进行宏观和微观两个向度的综合分析,从高句丽民族形成、慕容鲜卑崛起、南朝服饰流行风尚、高句丽中后期佛教的流传、平壤地区的社会变革、平壤与集安两地壁画所绘服饰对比、墓主人身份辨析、墓葬形制分析等方面深入探究各型服饰搭配时空变迁的原因。第9章《服饰的对比与交流》,将高句丽遗存所见服饰资料,特别是高句丽民族传统服饰与典型的汉族服饰,与生活在我国东北部及西北朝鲜地区的鲜卑族服饰,夫余、沃沮、秽貊族服饰,肃慎、挹娄、勿吉、靺鞨、渤海服饰,百济、新罗服饰加以比较,系统阐释各族服饰文化之间的异同及产生原因,进一步探讨该地区政治制度、经济制度、文化习俗、移民等因素对于服饰文化交流的影响及高句丽在东北亚地区服饰文化交流中的地位和作用。第10章《结语》,总结本文的创新与收获,同时指出局限与不足,对今后的研究加以展望。更多还原

【Abstract】 Based on koguryo seen in clothing material remains and related historical material as the research object. In a wide range of collecting, sorting and analyzing documented, frescoes image and unearthed relics basis, through the dress classification and combination research systematically states koguryo dress the integral style of the grave with characteristics. And from that starting point, through the dress of the social, dress of space-time change, dress with three aspects to communicate the depth study, all-round analysis koguryo dress culture connotation.The article is divided into 10 chapter:The first chapter of the introduction, this paper briefly illustrate the research object, the time-space range, introduce various research material, looking back, summarizes the research achievements of research limitations. Explain the meaning and purpose, Outlines research ideas and methods.Chapter 2 hairdo, ornaments, including hair of three parts and makeup. Hairdo, according to ancient costume recorded and relevant hairstyle the hairdo itself features, will be the courtyard-shaped murals painted beatles hair hairdo into braided hair hair, break, Kun hair bun, vertical, top bun, compilation, son Huan bun, dish bun, bun, double bun, cloud bun, flowers Chai bun, not LiaoSheng large vertical Jian bun, such as applogized, respectively, 15 kind of their respective shape characteristics, revealed Hair from mural painted, points hair hair and remains unearthed two aspects of wave, zan analysis steps Chai, women, such as the shape of the head decorations characteristic; Make-up, from floral twinkle, oblique red, face Ye, white makeup, GongZhuang, forehead gold etc, seen shallow grave koguryo mural face makeup woman characteristics. Summarizing various shape characteristics of the foundation, on the comb hair hairdo, all who face the identity of modification and tie-in, rank, problems preliminarily analyzed.Chapter 3, including the first take "the koguryo official biography contained in the champions cap, murals painted champions cap, remains unearthed fine gold crown apoplectic reach cap decorations four parts. Official biography, "the koguryo contained in the champions cap" summary of the koguryo twelve home in history biography about champions cap of records, which is divided into "carriages, bone Sue, ROM champions" and "discount wind, skin champions, Bian" two groups, namely reposit name, infer that shape, dividing type. "Mural painted champions cap", according to ancient clothing carries the name, or champions league crowns cap for its grave characteristic, cap is named. Points discussed various champions cap type characteristic, and the shape of the textual research in short, identity, and use scope, characters in costume this type of champions cap and the history of status to illustrate. "Remains unearthed fine gold crown" mainly introduces found in the koguryo monuments seven pieces of fine gold crown and relatively complete use method. "Champions cap decorations" points "document from the koguryo champions cap decorations," "fresco crown cap decorations," "remains unearthed champions cap pieces" three angles, ornaments systematic analysis bird feather, with ornaments, hollow out or adorn have gold crown of wave leaves various champions cap ornament act, and the exterior characteristics that the identity of the wearer’s.Chapter 4 of the body, from Ru clothing, pants and skirts and robe, and other decorative clothing on the five aspects, systematically explore koguryo mural historical data and the basic style clothes involved. The Ru with long Ru short courtyard-shaped analysis, from the Ren, sleeve, bring, waist decoration, color, decorative pattern, seven aspects such as; pants pants is divided into fat, thin leg pants, Kun three young nose; "Body other adornment" clothing beatles silks, including shawls, Shou, do Fei, knee, the self-stipulation wattenberg, shape analysis of seven categories of user identity, use circumstance, etiquette function sex occasionally dabbled problems.Chapter 5 of the foot garments, according to the documents, fresco and unearthed real data, three aspects for short Yao will foot lint Yao shoes, shoe, high in Yao shoes, cleats, rounded toe shoe and wat ludaoli six types of head. For all kinds of foot lint, grasp details of the shape from various characteristics of the user’s sex, use circumstance, use methods for further analysis.Chapter 6, "the other unearthed decorations from earring, bracelet portion, with three aspects, with the earrings, of archaeological pendants, bracelets, belt buckles, take“kua”(shows various decorations otaku) tail, reveal parting of various types of shape differences between master them, overall, thick department characteristics of infer decorations users identity, using method.Chapter 7 of the dress in the dress of social, based on the research of classification combined research. According to the first clothing, clothing, clothing, foot coat collocation and different ways of, its into ten type. And from that starting point, thoroughly analyzed all kinds of koguryo clothing material reflects national, regional, grade sex, the etiquette of various social attributes. Through the study shows that the ten type collocation contains koguryo national traditional clothing, han costumes, xianbei dress and a variety of mixed type clothing apparel factors four dress cultural factors, set Ann and Pyongyang two dress constitute obvious regionality, level sex, etiquette sex differences.Chapter 8 of the space-time change the dress, consult with koguryo mural tomb research results, compiling installment according to the koguryo seen in clothing material remains the regional differences, it will be divided into phases integrating Ann and Pyongyang’s two main areas, again will MeiOu each is divided into four periods. Each period for all regions of various dress collocation courtyard-shaped evolution macro and micro dimensions on the comprehensive analysis, from MuRong xianbei ethnic formation, koguryo southern dynasty dress popular fashion rise, the spread of Buddhism, koguryo mid, Pyongyang area society changes, Pyongyang and set both mural painted, contrast, and MuZhuRen identity differentiate dress tombs shape analysis etc, and further to explore the various dress collocation space-time change causes.Chapter 9 "dress contrast and exchange", will koguryo seen dress material remains national traditional costumes, especially with typical koguryo han costumes, and living in the northeast and northwest north Korea region in the costumes, xianbei, walter Ju, Cardiff more family swore costumes, the end Yi adjudicates Lou, not absolve, Mo kyrgyzstan, He, bohai dress, 100 jinan, to compare, system xinluo dress dress culture explains the differences between peoples and the causes of deeper into the region political system, economic system and cultural customs, immigration for dress factors such as cultural exchange influence, and further reveal koguryo in northeast Asia apparel culture exchange the position and function.Chapter 10 of the epilogue, summarizes the innovation and harvest, paper also points to limitation and inadequacy, future research disadvantages.更多还原