【作者】 徐慧娟；

【导师】 杨以雄；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 管理科学与工程， 2010， 博士

【摘要】 服装产业集群发展评价研究是产业经济研究领域的一项重要课题。近年来,国内外相关领域学者从不同角度对产业集群展开了有益的探索与研究,对指导产业集群及提供发展策略起到了一定的促进作用。由文献分析可知,现有的这一相关课题研究主要是在传统经济发展模式下,以经济利益最大化为前提,而以循环经济为视角探讨服装产业集群发展评价的文献鲜有所见。我国服装产业集群发展面临着经济全球化、资源短缺与环境污染、体面劳动与社会责任、产业转移与产业升级等挑战。进入2010年,原材料短缺和价格上涨,用工困难等现象愈演愈烈,给纺织服装业带来了巨大的成本和经营压力。在此背景下,部分服装产业集群出现衰退现象,我国服装产业集群的可持续发展举步维艰。本文从循环经济的视角对服装产业集群的发展进行探索,试图在已有理论和相关研究成果的基础上,通过理论与实践相结合对服装产业集群发展进行评价解析,为促进服装产业集群可持续发展提供有益探讨和建议。在研究过程中,采用文献研究法、比较分析法、问卷调查与专家访谈法等,借助数学方法和计算机算法构建改进的熵权TOPSIS评价模型,依据定量与定性分析相结合,理论与案例解析相呼应的方法展开研究。本文的主要研究工作如下：(1)界定概念及研究对象论文对国内外有关循环经济的起源与发展,内涵、特征和基本原则,实施主体,国内外的发展模式；产业集群的概念、分类,与循环经济的关系等进行了梳理和评述。a.界定纺织服装产业循环经济概念为：在纺织服装生产、流通和消费等过程中进行的减量化、再利用、资源化活动的总称；b.纺织服装业循环经济实现形式为：推行清洁生产、生产资源再利用、废弃资源再利用、使用替代材料、研发新产品、二手服装处理及经营等；c.在产业集群的概念和分类研究基础上,阐述服装产业集群的概念,将服装产业集群分为生产型、商贸型和研发设计创新型三大类,确定本文研究对象为生产型服装产业集群；d.再从一般层面、循环经济层面和服装业层面分别对产业集群发展评价指标体系的构建进行文献研究,并进行评述总结。(2)基于循环经济视角分析我国服装产业集群的现状a.首先归纳总结了我国广东、江苏、浙江、福建等主要服装产业集群现状特点：b.通过实地调研及资料收集整理,对我国服装产业循环经济发展较为典型的广东西樵纺织服装产业基地、均安牛仔服装产业集群、浙江绍兴海滨生态工业园区进行案例分析；c.在指出服装产业集群循环经济发展的理念误区基础上,阐述了基于循环经济的服装产业集群发展理念。d.根据文献研究结合服装产业集群循环经济发展的特征,总结出影响服装产业集群循环经济发展的主要因素是生产要素、集群内部结构、企业自身发展及政府支持力度。(3)构建基于循环经济的服装产业集群发展评价指标体系及模型在分析服装产业集群评价的基本步骤、构建评价指标体系原则和评价指标选取优化的基础上,结合产业集群发展评价指标体系文献研究、影响服装产业集群的主要因素及循环经济的实施主体分析结论,构建了基于循环经济的服装产业集群发展评价指标体系和评价模型。a.以循环经济战略思想为指导,从集群、政府、企业和客户四个层面构建了基于循环经济的服装产业集群发展评价指标体系框架,运用专家访谈法对指标体系进行优化,最终形成具有层次性的服装产业集群发展评价指标体系：4项一级指标、11项二级指标及25项三级指标；b.通过比较分析各种服装产业集群发展评价方法及主客观赋值法的优缺点,选择了熵权法确定指标权重,TOPSIS法进行综合评价。考虑到传统的TOPSIS仅进行优劣排序,无法进行分档评价,为此,在熵权TOPSIS模型理论的基础上进行改进,提出基于熵权和改进型TOPSIS算法的服装产业集群循环经济发展评价方法；c.运用Matlab软件编制了熵权函数和改进的TOPSIS评价模型计算程序。(4)实证研究根据指标体系,采用李克特量表形式设计调研问卷,采集杭州和温州服装产业集群的36个样本数据,利用熵权和改进型TOPSIS评价模型,对集群、政府、企业、客户和综合层面分别进行解析和比较两地服装产业集群的发展状况。a.在集群、政府、企业、客户及综合层面,杭州服装产业集群优于温州服装产业集群的发展；b.在集群层面,杭州和温州服装产业集群的循环经济发展均处于稍差水平。在政府、综合层面,杭州服装产业集群处于一般水平,温州处于稍差水平；在企业、客户层面,杭州和温州服装产业集群的循环经济发展同处一般水平,说明两地产业集群的循环经济发展有很大潜力。(5)提出基于循环经济的我国服装产业集群发展对策与建议在服装产业集群内企业的深度访谈、相关资料查阅以及浙江杭州、温州服装产业集群的实证分析基础上,从集群、政策、企业、客户四个方面提出基于循环经济的服装产业集群发展对策建议。a.集群层面——通过强集群内企业协作,完善公共服务平台和配套设施主要包括技术服务和信息平台、金融服务平台、配套设施建设和中介服务平台,加强产业集群治理来促进服装产业集群发展；b.政策层面——主要采用财政政策、税收政策、投融资政策、产业政策和科技创新扶持政策等支持服装产业集群发展；c.企业层面——通过鼓励实施绿色研发战略、提高企业的自主创新和引进创新能力、积极推行清洁生产、建立资源节约型管理模式推进企业走绿色可持续发展道路；d.客户层面——提高客户对循环经济的认识和了解,倡导绿色消费和生活。(6)本文的主要创新点①提出循环经济视角下服装产业集群的发展理念在分析循环经济和产业集群相关理论基础上,结合服装产业特色,阐述了基于循环经济的服装产业集群发展理念,即在一定区域内和特定背景下,将循环经济强调的“减量化、再利用、资源化”原则融入到服装产业集群发展过程中,达到节约资源、能源、保护生态环境的目的,实现可持续发展。②构建基于循环经济的服装产业集群评价指标体系以循环经济实施主体政府、企业、消费者为主线,以企业为立足点,以服装产业链分析为基础,结合产业集群发展评价指标体系文献理论研究、影响服装产业集群的主要因素分析结论,构建基于循环经济的服装产业集群发展评价指标体系结构框架。一级指标包括集群、政府、企业和客户四个层面；二级指标主要包括网络关系、合作协作、政策制度、管理培训、经济效益、内部组织、生产工艺、绿色产品、发展目标、企业形象和客户要求；对各项二级指标细分,共设置了25项三级指标。③剖析我国服装产业集群循环经济发展的对策建议在对服装产业集群发展实证研究的基础上,从集群、政府、企业和客户四个层面详尽地剖析了基于循环经济的服装产业集群发展对策,为政府、企业、行业协会等不同产业集群行为主体提供参考建议。更多还原

【Abstract】 The study on development evaluation of garment industry cluster is an important topic in the field of industrial economy research. Recently, both the domestic and foreign research scholars have performed several beneficial exploration and research on industry cluster development based on different perspectives, which has played certain active roles in guiding industry cluster development and providing development strategy. Analyzing the available literature, existing research is based on traditional economy development mode and maximizing profits, however, there is little literature studying on garment industry cluster from the perspective of circular economy.Our country garment industry cluster is in face of several challenges on economic globalization, shortage of resources and environmental pollution, decent work and social responsibility, industry transfer and industrial upgrading. Since the beginning of 2010, with shortage of raw materials and increasing of price as well as the more and more intensive labor shortage, a immense pressure in cost and operation have emerged in textile and garment industry, under the background of which, recession was appeared in some of the industry cluster. Sustainable development of our country garment industry cluster is difficult to progress. Research on development of garment industry clusters in the perspective of circular industry is taken in the paper. Based on the existing theories and relevant research results combined theories and practice, some beneficial discussions and suggestions are provided to promote sustainable development of garment industry cluster.In the study, literature research, comparative analysis, questionnaire survey and expert interviews, etc. are applied. By means of the mathematical method and computer calculation, advanced entropy TOPSIS evaluation model has been built up, in which the quantitative analysis and qualitative analysis are combined, and the theoretical analysis and case studies are echoed with each other.The main researches of this paper are as follows.(1) The concept and research object are definedThe arrangement and commentary are described on circular economy with its origin and development, connotation, features, basic principles, implementation of its subject, the development mode, and the concept, classcify of industry cluster.a. The concept of textile and garment industry circular economy is defined:the reducing, reusing and recycling activities in the process of textile and garment production, circulation and consumption, etc. b. The realization means of textile and garment industry circular economy include cleaner production, recycle production resources, reuse waste resources, use alternative materials, development new production and treatment and management of the second-hand garment, etc.c. Based on the concept of industrial clusters and the classification, the concept of garment industry clusters has been described, and the garment industry into three types are classified, that is, production-oriented, business-oriented, and innovation of research& development-oriented. Garment industry cluster with production-oriented is determined as the research objects in this paper.d. Then, the researches are taken on the documents of the index system of the development evaluation on the industry clusters form three aspects, which are common, circular economy, and garment industry. At last, the comment and summarize are given.(2) China’s garment industry clusters based on circular economy is analyzeda. Firstly, the features of garment industry clusters in Guangdong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian, etc. have been summarized.b. Through the field research and data collection, the cases on the circular economical development on China’s garment industry in some relatively typical areas have been analyzed, such as textile garment industry base of Guangdong Xiqiao, jeans industry cluster of Junan, and the coastal eco-industrial park of Zhejiang Shaoxing.c. The concept of garment industry cluster circular economy is showed based on pointing out the mistaken ideas of the circular economy development of the garment industry.d. According to the documentary research, and combing with the development features of the circular economy development of garment industry clusters, the author analyzed that the factors which influenced the development of the circular economy on the garment industry cluster are production factors, cluster internal structure, the development of enterprises, and the support efforts from the government.(3) The evaluation index system and mode of the garment industry cluster development based on the circular economyBased on the analysis of the basic steps of garment industry cluster evaluation, and the principle of the evaluation index system and the selection optimization of the evaluation target, combining the documentary research on the evaluation index system of the industry cluster development, the main factors that influence garment industry clusters, as well as the analysis conclusion of the main parts of the circular industry. The evaluation index system and mode of the garment industry cluster development are established based on the circular economy.a. Guided by the strategic thought of circular economy, the development evaluation of the garment industry cluster was built up based on the circular economy in the following four levels, i.e. clusters, government, enterprises and customers, optimized the index system by means of experts interviews, finally formed the evaluation index system for garment industry cluster development with multi-layer features, that is, four first-grade indexes, eleven second-grade indexes, and twenty-five third-grade indexes.b. The development evaluation methods of garment industry clusters in a comparative way are analyzed, and the entropy is selected to determine the index weight, evaluated comprehensively with the TOPSIS method, built up the evaluation model of entropy TOPSIS. In consideration of the traditional TOPSIS that only takes the superior and interior orders, but fails to rank, therefore, it is improved based on the model theory of entropy TOPSIS and the development evaluation of garment industry clusters based on entropy and improved TOPSIS calculation is put forward.c. Apply the Matlab software to formulate the entropy function and the advanced TOPSIS evaluation model on calculation process.(4) Demonstration researchBased on the index system, the investigation questionnaire formed from Li Kete is applied, in which the thirty-six sampled data from Hangzhou and Wenzhou garment industry clusters are selected, with the evaluation model of entropy and advanced TOPSIS, analyzed the development situation of garment industry clusters in two places in the level of clusters, governments, enterprises, and customers, then compared the advantage and weakness between the two garment industry clusters.a. In the level of clusters, governments, enterprises and customers, the garment industry clusters in Hangzhou are superior to that of Wenzhou;b. In the level of clusters, the circular economical development of garment industry clusters in Wenzhou and Hangzhou are not in a very ideal level; in the level of governments and comprehensive layer, the garment industry level clusters in Hangzhou is in a common level, and Wenzhou is in a not ideal level; in the level of enterprises and customers layer, the circular economic development of the garment industry clusters in Hangzhou and Wenzhou are in a common level, which indicts that there are great potentials for the circular economic development of the industry clusters in the two cities. (5) The countermeasures and suggestions on garment industry clusters development based on the circular economy is put forwardBased on the depth interviews for the enterprises within the garment industry clusters, reference on the relevant document and the demonstration analysis on the garment industry in Hangzhou and Wenzhou of Zhejiang, the countermeasures and suggestions, for the garment industry clusters are provided based on the circular industry in the four aspects, such as cluster, policy, enterprise, and customer.a. For the cluster, through the enterprise collaboration within the cluster, improving the public service platform and the matched facilities mainly including the technology information service platform, the financial service platform, the matched facilities construction and the agency service platform, the development of garment industry clusters is promoted through strengthening the treatment of the industry cluster.b. In the level of policies, the development on the garment industry shall be supported by the measures that employing the financial policy, the tax policy, investing and financing policy, the industrial policy and the technology policy, etc..c. In the level of enterprises, the sustainable development shall be implemented though encouraging carrying out green researching and developing strategy, enhancing innovation ability, performing cleaner production, establishing the resource saving-oriented management model.d. In the level of customers, helping customers enhance the knowledge and understanding on the circular economy, propose the green consumption and life.(6) The main innovation points in the paper①The concept of garment industry cluster based on the circular economy is elaboratedBased on the relevant theories of the circular economy and industry clusters, and combining the unique features of the garment industry, the concept of garment industry cluster based on the circular economy is elaborated, that is, putting the principle of the reducing, reusing, and recycling by the circular economy, and achieved the goals of saving source and energy, and protecting eco-environment, and realized sustainable development of the industry cluster.②The evaluation index system of the garment industry is established.Government, enterprises, and consumers, as the main parts of implementing circular economy, was taken as the main lines, and based on the analysis of the garment industry chains, the structure fame of the evaluation index system of the garment industry was established, the first class target includes the four aspects, those are, clusters, government, enterprise, and customer, the second-class target includes network relationship, collaboration and cooperation, policies and systems, management and training, economical interests, inner organization, producing technology, green products, development goals, enterprises’image and customers’ demand, further set up twenty-five third-class targets according to the second-class target.③The countermeasures and suggestions for the circular economic development of China’s garment industry clusters are put forwardBased on the demonstration research on the garment industry cluster development, the countermeasures and suggestions for the circular economic development of China’s garment industry clusters are put forward in four aspects, those are, cluster, government, enterprise, and customer, and provide reference and suggestions for the main parts of the various industry clusters such as government, enterprise, industry association, consumers.更多还原