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品色衣制度的发展变迁及影响因素研究
Study on evolution and influencing factors of official costume system
【摘要】 中国封建社会时期有着上下有序的等级制度,其中服饰色彩也是识别等级身份的方式之一。品色衣是用来区分官员等级的服色制度,分明的服饰色彩使品官之间的地位差异一目了然。文章阐述品色衣制度的萌芽、成长、鼎盛、逐渐消亡的过程,分析影响品色衣制度发展变迁的色彩规律及文化内涵,剖析影响品色衣制度发展变迁的因素。研究认为:品色衣制度的发展变迁遵循着一定的色彩规律,蕴含着封建社会等级制度、传统伦理、民族文化变革中的交融传承等文化内涵;同时,政权稳定程度、染织科技水平、色彩文化观念、礼制文化渗透也在不同程度上影响着品色衣制度的发展变迁。
【Abstract】 There was a hierarchy during the feudal times of China. Clothing color was one of the methods for identifying hierarchical identity. Official costume was a clothing color system used to distinguish official rank. The specific clothing color made differences of status of officials clear at a glance. This paper describes the evolution of clothing color system,including its generation,growth,boom and gradual extinction and analyzes color law and cultural connotations influencing the evolution of official costume system and factors influencing its evolution. The study considers that the evolution of official costume system follows certain color law and contains cultural connotations such as hierarchy in feudal society,traditional ethics and integration and inheritance in national cultural reform;meanwhile the stability degree of political power,scientific and technological level of dyeing and weaving,color culture concept and penetration of rites culture influence the evolution of official costume system to different extents.
【Key words】 official costume; clothing color system; evolution; color concept; influencing factors;
- 【文献出处】 丝绸 ,Journal of Silk , 编辑部邮箱 ,2016年02期
- 【分类号】TS941.12
- 【被引频次】1
- 【下载频次】105